My ParkLiner has got Solar! - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-31-2014, 07:35 AM   #15
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Here is the link for the panel I bought... 12 Volt 100 Watt Solar Panel Kit Solarblvd

I looked at several but the dimensions of this one fit my rooftop the best. I didn't want it to close to the front edge of my ParkLiner so it isn't as noticeable up there.

I thought about using the 3m super strength tape to hold it down and decided to bolt it inplace and use butyl tape to seal it. I found out about butyl tape years back that higher end boat manuf were using it to put in deck hardware and has a longer lifespan then most caulks.... well time will tell lol.
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Old 05-31-2014, 09:23 AM   #16
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Awesome work..... May be on my agenda for next year!
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Old 05-31-2014, 05:04 PM   #17
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Good for you Deryk, and you can sew too. Very impressed!!!!!
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:47 AM   #18
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You will love it.

I could not tel if the battery connect is were to the saw battery with jumpers the other battery or split.

With dual batteries the positive wire goes to one and the negative to the other. The batteries last longer that way
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Old 06-02-2014, 08:23 AM   #19
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I like to consider myself a renaissance man.... can do a little bit of everything lol

and yes I have the positive wire going from the charge controller to one battery and the negative to the other battery.
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Old 06-02-2014, 09:53 AM   #20
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Cable Clam. I had not seen a cable gland that would do two cables at once. I've used the duplex round wire--two conductors in one round sheath to pull two wires through one hole--that wire is very pricey though. It was cheaper to use two cable glands than duplex round wire. I am in the planning stages of adding some external antennas for my MiFi, WiFi, two Ham Radio antennas, and possibly a TV antenna. I'll be needing more cable glands. I also did a temp install of a solar panel on my boat. I will use your style cable glands for that.

Buytl Tape: I used buytl tape on my solar install. I am debating going back and trimming the excess butyl tape with a plastic knife, and then putting a fillet of dicor around the edges. All my old seams show cracking which I've filled with Dicor, and it appears to be old buytl tape. Are you planning to put any Dicor on the edges of the mount?

Sealing: I also want to go around and re-bed all my windows too. I've seem some signs of cracking on the seals, but no signs of leaks fortunately. Summer is the time for me to start doing windows over one by one.

In any event, you will love your solar. I don't recognize the meter. What does it do. I just discovered the Victron make a more affordable battery monitor, and I believe it stores history also and that can be displayed on a laptop. I am researching that, as I'd love to have documentation showing the charging characteristic of my solar install. A charge monitor may be a waste of money, because I've found I can more or less ignore my power use. Still it is reassuring to know how much is in the bank.

Victron Battery Monitor I just read about. Note 10.000 Amps in the specification is 10,0000 Amps. This device can monitor anything.

http://tinyurl.com/mn4d848
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Old 06-02-2014, 10:07 AM   #21
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Conrad, I got the largest Cable Clam they had, and since the installer gets to drill the hole in the rubber plug I just drilled 2 smaller holes, wet the wire and pulled it through( very tight fit) I did have some dicor and put a glob of it on top where the wires passed through.

Ive used butyl tape before and never had any issues with leaks. I bevel the hole and wrap the butyl tape around the bolt so when it gets tightened down it gets pushed down into the beveled part and makes a good seal...I guess time will tell lol.

When I have to redo my windows I'm going to use butyl tape as well.

The meter came with/ the charge controller (plugs into it) so I can see how many amps of solar energy is going into the battery as well as what the battery charge state is at.
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Old 06-03-2014, 08:59 AM   #22
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OK, I thought these came with holes pre-made. Thanks for the tip. Beveling the hole makes sense too. I'm sure it won't leak. We are both sailors so we know about leaks--Chinese water torture that can be prevented.

Keep us posted on your charging etc.

I'm playing with my new Cellular amp and so far it doesn't seem to do anything. The over long and pencil thin high loss wire is not helping.

And I can't find my other WiFi amp and antenna. Oh well onto the next thing. Dyeing my Volvo wagon rear carpet.
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:40 PM   #23
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I have approached this in a low tech fashion. I had an old Uni-solar 32 watt panel that has been used on our sailboat since 1996 for our IsoTherm refrigeration. (One or two of these have allowed us to maintain batteries with refrigeration, water pumps, lights, etc.)

Attached a female 7 pin socket (at appropriate positive/negative pins) to the wire coming from the solar panel. Plug this into the male 7-pin from "Parker", then flop the solar panel on the ground in any sunny spot or prop it up to catch direct sunshine. Appears to keep the batteries topped off without issue. We had Chandler install the battery monitor option so it is easy to check voltages. 32 watts is not enough to fry to batteries, so a controller is not necessary.
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Old 06-23-2014, 07:18 PM   #24
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Well the roof mounted panel is doing fine. When I retire in too many years I will have a combination of roof mounted and portable panels for max solar gain. Most of my trips are 3~4 days a t a time. I'm happy with it.
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:30 AM   #25
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Deryk, you left out the one picture I need to see. Where did you go through the floor? From underneath the trailer, it looks like the best place is just inside the closet close to the door. But if I was off even an inch it might not work and it's hard to measure right there with the curve.

Where did you mount the charge controller? If in the closet, which wall?

Thanks
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Old 07-23-2014, 10:56 AM   #26
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Huck, my controller is on the floor of my closet....back corner I cut a piece of wood to cover it and added legs to be taller then the controller for ventilation. It has a monitor that I mounted above the closet.
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Old 07-23-2014, 10:58 AM   #27
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Nice job Deryk, maybe Parkliner will offer a solar package now.
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Old 07-23-2014, 12:39 PM   #28
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They should, its a great thing to have. I run my MaxxAir fan alot to keep it comfortable inside and the solar panel pretty much keeps the batteries topped off. If I was full-timing I would add at least a 2nd 100 watt panel. This summer has been relatively decent temperature so haven't needed to run my ac at all (so far lol).
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