My Second Belly Band Thread - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-17-2013, 07:18 PM   #15
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Well it came off fine, I figured that the amount of glue that would get to the wood was minimal.
There is about 2" where the shaved edge hangs out about 1/8" further then it should. Otherwise it is perfect. A bit of grinding and I am back to where I started.
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Old 08-06-2013, 08:03 AM   #16
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Any updates, how'd it work out?
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Old 09-09-2013, 01:57 PM   #17
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Worked out great! I didn't get any further on the belly band then I did the first time. It is painted with a coating of resin to seal the ends of the fibers. I also re-installed the door, and rear window.

Unfortunately, it is now at my dad's place in Ontario.
Worst Vacation Ever
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Old 11-14-2013, 09:05 PM   #18
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Hi. Enjoyed your posts on belly band fix. Looks like you are doing a great job on it. Where do you get a new band? I am fixing up my 77 Trillium and would like to remove the old band before painting.. Thank you.
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Old 11-15-2013, 11:18 AM   #19
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The plan is to just sand it flat, then paint it. I like the look with no belly band.

Randy Bishop found a self adhesive belly band.
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Old 05-08-2014, 02:33 PM   #20
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Sorry if it has been asked but I'm new to trilliums & I just got a 76' and need to do something about my bellyband since it's coming off on the front. If you remove the belly band does it loose some structural strength?
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Old 05-08-2014, 03:09 PM   #21
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No.

Other then covering the ugly seam between the top and bottom half of the trailer. The belly band is just a system that lines up the two half's . Once the interior bandage hardens, that is where all the strength is. Once my filler hardens, that strength is doubled, or more.
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Old 05-08-2014, 03:30 PM   #22
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That makes total sense, so your filling the void where the inside band was. I'm sure I'll have more questions once I get going. Thanks
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Old 05-08-2014, 04:13 PM   #23
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There is no inside band. On the inside are those pesky metal plates. They pull the inside out. The belly band pushes the outside in, till the top and the bottom line up. Then they run, what I call, a fibreglass bandage over the plates, from the inside. The top and bottom half never actually meet. It is that gap that I am filling. In a way that is somewhat structural.

This is what it looks like on the inside, under the elephant skin, (Ensolite).
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Old 05-08-2014, 04:52 PM   #24
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Sorry just want to be clear before I start hacking the trailer apart.

I think I got ya! So once the belly band is removed and the rivets cut back you fill it? You don't remove the plate on the inside. Is that right?

Thanks again for your help.
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Old 05-08-2014, 05:39 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post

So, to try to explain what the wood was in the first place. When installed, it was about 2" wide, and fit into the protrusion in the fibreglass that the belly band sits on. It looks like it was glued to the inside fibreglass that makes up the dinette, and the lower shell. When the top of the trailer was put on, and the belly band was installed it was glued to the top as well, then screwed through the belly band into the wood. But the glue did not stick so good to the top half of the shell. It was separated when I opened it up. To detach it from the top shelf, I just ran a boxing knife blade between the shell and he plywood. It came apart. Digging out the glue, and remaining plywood, from the inside of the dinette fiberglass, was way more difficult.
This is most interesting, David. If you know, is there a similar arrangement up front?

I had wondered how the two shell halves stayed "in place" with the necessary gap until the bellyband plates/rivets/fiberglass strips were applied, and this might answer that question in my mind.

Thanks!
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Old 05-08-2014, 05:52 PM   #26
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You might want to read the whole thread. I do indeed remove the plates.I cut them in half with a Dremmel tool, then I pull them out like rotten teeth. The process is better documented in this thread:
My First Belly Band Thread

In this thread, I went one step further then the first time. I used the same Dremmel, but with a sanding drum to sand off the rust I could get at, in the socket that the metal plate was in. This gave the new fibreglass a better bond, and made the whole thing stronger, I think. I also tried to stuff a piece of fibreglass, cut to a slightly smaller size then the original plate, then saturated with resin into the spot that the plate was. This was somewhat like pushing rope. I kinda gave up on that. Next time I will push it into the slot that the plate was in, before I saturate the fibreglass rectangle. Then I will try to get as much resin as possible in there after. Maybe I will use a syringe.

I don't think it would be a big deal if you did not remove them. I just wanted the rusty things out. More fibreglass that way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hrose414 View Post
Sorry just want to be clear before I start hacking the trailer apart.

I think I got ya! So once the belly band is removed and the rivets cut back you fill it? You don't remove the plate on the inside. Is that right?

Thanks again for your help.
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Old 05-08-2014, 06:02 PM   #27
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No, up front there was just the plates, and the bandage. I think the point of the wood was to bond the table back splash to the shell. This would make the whole trailer stiffer. But the screws in the wood almost fell out. The wood had been exposed to water with no paint or any preservative. In the gap between the top and bottom, it had rotted right through to the inside. This piece of wood was only used on the 4500. The 1300 was metal plates and bandage all the way around.

I have watched Reece Thoen join the top and bottom half's of a new Trillium / Outback. It is basically the same process as the 1970's Trilliums, except they use a washer now, instead of the plates. I hope they use a stainless steel washer, but I don't know. It is a slow process. They set the top on the bottom, separated by thin bits of wood to maintain the gap. Then they wrestle the two half's together. On my 4500, in the corners, the plates were doubled up and closely spaced. I suspect that is where most of the work is. Once the corners are lined up, the sides are probably easier.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
This is most interesting, David. If you know, is there a similar arrangement up front?

I had wondered how the two shell halves stayed "in place" with the necessary gap until the bellyband plates/rivets/fiberglass strips were applied, and this might answer that question in my mind.

Thanks!
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Old 05-20-2014, 02:54 PM   #28
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I was just at the fiberglass shop talking with the guy there and he asked why is it necessary to fiberglass the outside, could you not just bondo the 2 halves together after removing the washers & rivets? Then sand, prime & paint.
Sounded like a good point. Be a lot quicker than fiberglassing it. I'm sure I read somewhere that it's not structural anyways since the inside is fiberglass was over where the belly band washers on the inside are.
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