My Solar Install - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-04-2014, 04:33 PM   #57
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Your charger connects to the battery. The solar controller connects to the battery. Note the battery negative goes to the battery side of the shunt. All other negative wires connect to the other side of the shunt.
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Old 04-04-2014, 05:24 PM   #58
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Denny's correct. The charger would be connected to the battery. The diagram was from a Charge Wizard installation - apparently a different animal.
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Old 04-04-2014, 06:22 PM   #59
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Sounds like it should be a pice of cake and a bunch of wire

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Old 04-10-2014, 02:05 PM   #60
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My panels recharged my -87.2 AH deficit sometime after noon today. It was more than that, because it was charging with 8.6 Amps when I checked about 8:11 this morning and had recovered 65 AH at 1246, when I switched on the fridge which draws 28 Amps, thinking I'd have to turn if off in a few hours. I just checked at about 3PM to find my batteries showing fully charged and 7.4 Amps going into the batteries (they were not really fully charged), for a net production of about 35.4 Amps or 5.9 Amps per panel average. It has been clear and cool today. I'm happy to keep my fridge running on electric. I just wish it was an Engel and I could run it 100% on solar power.
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Old 04-20-2014, 12:02 PM   #61
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Ran the furnace some last night, and one side of the electric blanket on 5. I over slept this morning. When I got out of bed at and checked the state of charge, I found my batteries at 91.4%, -35.8AH, and 22.4 Amps going into my batteries (inverter and furnace switched off). These solar panels are doing amazingly well. The charge controller has more power than the batteries can accept. I will be switching the inverter back on and seeing how things go today. The fridge pulls about 28 Amps DC through the inverter. I find myself thinking more and more about a DC powered compressor type fridge. If the cost was not so high I'd do it. That would only require 4.5 Amps and the duty cycle would be 25% this time of year. I could get one day of cooling for what I use in one hour with my present fridge.
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Old 04-20-2014, 01:21 PM   #62
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Voltage is not a true test of a battery. The best test is to place an electrical load on the battery and check the results with a meter designed for this test. Another way is to check the condition of the fluids using a special hydrometer which can be found at many big box and auto parts stores.
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Old 04-20-2014, 01:38 PM   #63
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If you buy the hydrometer, pipe insulation ( or maybe a piece of pool noodle ) is a good way to store it when not in use.
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Old 04-20-2014, 01:42 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.R. View Post
Voltage is not a true test of a battery. The best test is to place an electrical load on the battery and check the results with a meter designed for this test. Another way is to check the condition of the fluids using a special hydrometer which can be found at many big box and auto parts stores.

What is fully charged? I don't give a darn about the last 8 AH of capacity. Fully charged for me is 98% or above.

Hydrometers only work with flooded batteries. Pretty much useless these days. I haven't used one in 40 years.

I don't use just voltage, although I monitor it to ensure my charge specs are not violated.

My charge controller is a three stage charger. While I'm sure a full charge is not in fact a full charge, it is accurate within 2% of fully charged. Batteries can take days to reach a full charge, which is irrelevant for my purposes as I use the sun to recharge it will never reach a true full charge unless remove all loads for several days.

I fully charged my batteries when I first got them and that will be it for a while. I don't intend to plug in any time soon.

I use a number of factors to monitor my charging--a battery monitor, which includes temperature status. Battery temperature will show how close it is to fully charged once in float mode. Temperature drops in the final stages of charging. Record keeping helps establish typical parameters which vary by battery.

My solar panels were producing 29.8 Amps here at 2:29pm and only .5 amps are going into the batteries, the balance is going into running my energy hog fridge via the inverter. Now I am losing -0.7Amps as the inverter fan is kicking on and the sun can't meet the extra bit of demand. It is not a perfect system, but a very good one.
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Old 04-20-2014, 09:26 PM   #65
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i have to say sir, you are the exception, you have a surplus of energy based on the selection of solar panels...well done.

I look forward to starting my solar adventure. I'll mount the panal to the TV to take advantage of the sun while moving to the next spot....I do have a question thou...do you have to worry about. back feeding into your TV during transit?
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Old 04-22-2014, 07:41 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmaken2157 View Post
i have to say sir, you are the exception, you have a surplus of energy based on the selection of solar panels...well done.

I look forward to starting my solar adventure. I'll mount the panal to the TV to take advantage of the sun while moving to the next spot....I do have a question thou...do you have to worry about. back feeding into your TV during transit?
Good point Todd.

I suppose I should put a manual switch to isolate the two. The question is where?

I was thinking about a battery isolator, but it seems unnecessary if I use a switch. I have been unplugging it when parked.

A switch seems simplest.
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Old 04-22-2014, 08:10 PM   #67
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A note on connectors:
LOOKING AT THE MC4 connectors the pins appear to be much like the low amperage Molex pins. I am using 25 amp Anderson Power pole connectors.
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Old 04-22-2014, 09:58 PM   #68
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I use Anderson power poles with my Ham gear. I have piles of them and
honestly I'd gladly get rid most applications. I like Wago DIN Rails or old style ring terminals better.

Anderson Power Poles have problems with 10 gauge wire. The stiffness of the wire can pull the contacts apart raising the resistance and melting the thing into a glob of blackened plastic. They will work but you have to be very careful that the wire does not stress the connector mechanically.

If you want to use those, I'd also recommend using modelers glue to bond the red and black connectors. And you should also slather in some liquid electrical tape in the backside of the connectors.
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Old 04-23-2014, 01:19 AM   #69
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Well hello NS from AF0XX. As an EE you probably remember not to cause pull on a connector. Where did you get the wheel chair drive wheels and control?
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Old 05-01-2014, 07:56 PM   #70
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Quote:
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Well hello NS from AF0XX. As an EE you probably remember not to cause pull on a connector. Where did you get the wheel chair drive wheels and control?
Perhaps the two topics got crossed. I was referring to the smaller Anderson Power Poles which are limited to 40 amps. The big heavy duty ones that you see on wreckers or for connecting heavier loads like an electric motor are pretty robust. I don't know what he was using on the chair drive.
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