Need advise- insulation &hull liner by those who know please! - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-23-2016, 07:58 AM   #1
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Name: Donna
Trailer: 2013 Lil Snoozy
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Need advise- insulation &hull liner by those who know please!

Hi everyone! Ok...clueless here about where to begin this job! We're wanting to insulate with reflectix and then glue on headliner fabric...aka "rat fur" to the bed area in our camper. Can someone with experience give us a few tips? Firstly, do we~ sand? the walls of the Lil Snoozy to remove bumps before doing this? I know only the basic's of this mod, & don't want to mess it up!! A lil direction would be soooo very helpful!! Thank you!
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Old 08-23-2016, 08:27 AM   #2
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Forum member and Lil Snoozy owner David B. did exactly the same thing you want to do. Here's a link to his profile. You might send him a PM. I haven't seen a recent post, so he may be on the road, but it's worth a shot. He's a very experienced modder and will be able to answer all your questions.

David B. Profile
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Old 08-23-2016, 09:18 AM   #3
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hull liner advice...

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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Forum member and Lil Snoozy owner David B. did exactly the same thing you want to do. Here's a link to his profile. You might send him a PM. I haven't seen a recent post, so he may be on the road, but it's worth a shot. He's a very experienced modder and will be able to answer all your questions.

David B. Profile
Thank you Jon!! Appreciate that so very much!! That's exactly what I'll do!
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Old 08-23-2016, 10:34 AM   #4
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Name: K C
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It has become a widespread urban myth via RV and Van forums and youtube that Reflective mylar coated bubble insulation it is an effective heat reflecting insulation for RVs when installed by applying glue to it, sticking it to the surface of the RV and then gluing another material on the other side.

When you apply glue to the surface of Reflectix you destroy its ability to reflect the heat because the glue dulls the surface of the mylar. Then all you have is a layer of air bubbles with no heat reflection.

That material was designed to be suspended by stapling it to rafters with air on each side of it. If you place it flush against another material it does not work as a reflective insulation. You do need an air gap on each side of it. You can do a search on the maker's recommendations for installing the material. What you won't see there is anything about putting glue on it and/or using it as a layer in a tight sandwich of materials. If it worked that way they would be showing using it that way. But you can call and talk to them and then you will be told not to do that.

Real polished metals can still give some heat remediation ability but spray glue will still destroy their reflective heat control ability because it will dull the surface.

The rat fur idea does work because the condensation clings to the surface instead of dripping back on you. But if it is extra insulation you want then use a layer of closed cell foam under it because it is more effective than a layer of air bubbles. The closed cell foam has another advantage in that it helps to deaden sound.
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Old 08-23-2016, 11:24 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k corbin View Post
It has become a widespread urban myth via RV and Van forums and youtube that Reflective mylar coated bubble insulation it is an effective heat reflecting insulation for RVs when installed by applying glue to it, sticking it to the surface of the RV and then gluing another material on the other side.

When you apply glue to the surface of Reflectix you destroy its ability to reflect the heat because the glue dulls the surface of the mylar. Then all you have is a layer of air bubbles with no heat reflection.

That material was designed to be suspended by stapling it to rafters with air on each side of it. If you place it flush against another material it does not work as a reflective insulation. You do need an air gap on each side of it. You can do a search on the maker's recommendations for installing the material. What you won't see there is anything about putting glue on it and/or using it as a layer in a tight sandwich of materials. If it worked that way they would be showing using it that way. But you can call and talk to them and then you will be told not to do that.

Real polished metals can still give some heat remediation ability but spray glue will still destroy their reflective heat control ability because it will dull the surface.

The rat fur idea does work because the condensation clings to the surface instead of dripping back on you. But if it is extra insulation you want then use a layer of closed cell foam under it because it is more effective than a layer of air bubbles. The closed cell foam has another advantage in that it helps to deaden sound.

I have done this mod in our LiL Snoozy. You are technically correct. I have read the Reflectrix materials also. After the mod I noticed a huge difference in the warmth of our "bedroom". The condensation we used to have around the mattress is also gone. Maybe that is just the "rat fur" but the mod was well worth doing. it also helps cut down the outside noise.

Regardless of the science, people keep doing this because it works. Just my "Two cents"
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Old 08-23-2016, 04:00 PM   #6
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Name: Kathi
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reflectix insulation

It seems to be working for me too. I pulled out all the nasty moldy fabric from my 1986 Cadet, along with the disintegrated foam behind it and wire brushed the fibreglass, which was extremely messy. I used water based non stinky contact cement to glue on the bubble wrap all over. It covered bumps, curves, and irregularities no problem. The water based stuck far better than the voc smelly contact cement. Then I glued on a heavy man made woven fabric, non mold hospitable, on the wall parts and left the ceiling showing the white side of the bubble wrap. It looks SO clean after what was there before !
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Old 08-23-2016, 04:23 PM   #7
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if a reflecting surface is in contact with the surface is really won't reflect anything.
The air space provides 99% of whatever insulation value there is with Reflectix.
My 1985 Scamp has the ensolite rubber and I can say that i nthe winter the cold really draws out the heat.
The 9000 but heat pump controls the inside temps pretty well.
I cleaned heck out of the inside Ensolite and primed it with Bullseye 123 with mildew resist and painted it with a good latex with the same kind of treating.
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Old 08-23-2016, 04:24 PM   #8
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Name: John Michael
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You are right KC. Reflectix mylar bubblewrap earns about 1 in R Value. Foam, ensolite, would be better. That said the bubblewrap is pretty effective in keeping condensation at bay. Just don't expect to keep much warmth in or out of your trailer. Thankfully our trailers are so small it doesn't take much propane to warm them up. Cooling is another kettle of fish and requires lots of BTUs when parked in the sun.

Bottom line. Reflectix is better than nothing, but not much. I am glad my Scamp has it, but I wish it had 1 inch of foam under the rat fur. That would earn about R 5-7 and make a huge difference.

John
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Old 08-24-2016, 03:19 AM   #9
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hull liner advice...

Quote:
Originally Posted by charlsara View Post
I have done this mod in our LiL Snoozy. You are technically correct. I have read the Reflectrix materials also. After the mod I noticed a huge difference in the warmth of our "bedroom". The condensation we used to have around the mattress is also gone. Maybe that is just the "rat fur" but the mod was well worth doing. it also helps cut down the outside noise.

Regardless of the science, people keep doing this because it works. Just my "Two cents"
Hahahaha...best two cents worth~ ever!!Thank's much Charlsara!
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Old 08-24-2016, 03:24 AM   #10
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Name: Donna
Trailer: 2013 Lil Snoozy
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hull liner advice...

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Linck View Post
You are right KC. Reflectix mylar bubblewrap earns about 1 in R Value. Foam, ensolite, would be better. That said the bubblewrap is pretty effective in keeping condensation at bay. Just don't expect to keep much warmth in or out of your trailer. Thankfully our trailers are so small it doesn't take much propane to warm them up. Cooling is another kettle of fish and requires lots of BTUs when parked in the sun.

Bottom line. Reflectix is better than nothing, but not much. I am glad my Scamp has it, but I wish it had 1 inch of foam under the rat fur. That would earn about R 5-7 and make a huge difference.

John
Hi John!You know, we'd seen somewhere a video where someone placed a very thin layer of a hard foam(syro?) in between the layers too. We've just got such tight quarters, we're hesitant to apply any more anything to take up space. Living in Florida, of course, we're concerned about heat, as well as cold. We'll see how this goes!
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Old 08-24-2016, 03:27 AM   #11
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hull liner advice...

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Originally Posted by minihorse View Post
It seems to be working for me too. I pulled out all the nasty moldy fabric from my 1986 Cadet, along with the disintegrated foam behind it and wire brushed the fibreglass, which was extremely messy. I used water based non stinky contact cement to glue on the bubble wrap all over. It covered bumps, curves, and irregularities no problem. The water based stuck far better than the voc smelly contact cement. Then I glued on a heavy man made woven fabric, non mold hospitable, on the wall parts and left the ceiling showing the white side of the bubble wrap. It looks SO clean after what was there before !
I bet it looks great! wow...your fabric choice sounds real interesting. Would love to see a pic if you have one Thanks for the comment!
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