Need power off taillight in 2008 Scamp 16

[Stephen Migotsky]

I'm trying to get power for a wireless backup camera from the taillight in my 2008 Scamp 16. There are three wires and two bulbs. top bulb is the backup light with the red wire; the lower bulb functions as the parking light, brake light, turn light with two wires--green and black. Which one has the + (positive) power and where is - (negative) ?

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by Stephen Migotsky

I'm trying to get power for a wireless backup camera from the taillight in my 2008 Scamp 16. There are three wires and two bulbs. top bulb is the backup light with the red wire; the lower bulb functions as the parking light, brake light, turn light with two wires--green and black. Which one has the + (positive) power and where is - (negative) ?

Do you want your camera to work when you step on the brakes ? or when you are signaling a turn ? or anytime you are in reverse ?

[Stephen Migotsky]

I want the camera to have power when the parking lights (running lights) are turned on.

[AC0GV]

[QUOTE= where is - (negative)

The bracket holding the lamp is the negative.
[B]NORMAL Bargman Tail Light [/B]
Red Wire: Running
Black Wire: Brake
White Wire: Ground

[gordon2]

There should be a wire connected to the metal frame of the light fixture, which the outside of the bulb socket is connected to. That will be the negative (unless something is very very unusual). For the positive, ignore the wire color. It might give you a clue which one is the running / marker lights, or it might lead you astray. Instead get a voltmeter and check which wire is hot when the marker lights, and only the marker lights are on.

[AC0GV]

[QUOTE Instead get a voltmeter and check which wire is hot when the marker lights, and only the marker lights are on.[/QUOTE]


If you do not have a volt meter, look for the $6 Harbor Freight meter. It will do all you need to do. Remember, never shop at HF with out your coupons, free stuff and a discount.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by AC0GV

If you do not have a volt meter, look for the $6 Harbor Freight meter. It will do all you need to do. Remember, never shop at HF with out your coupons, free stuff and a discount.

But often one of those free-bies at Harbor Freight is a voltmeter / mulit-meter.. so why pay for a device that is more limited in functionality than one you can get for free?

[AC0GV]

Originally Posted by gordon2

But often one of those free-bies at Harbor Freight is a voltmeter / mulit-meter.. so why pay for a device that is more limited in functionality than one you can get for free?

Last few weeks have been a free flash light instead. I was collecting meters and giving them away to needy RVers and Ham radio operators. I still have a few.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by AC0GV

Last few weeks have been a free flash light instead. I was collecting meters and giving them away to needy RVers and Ham radio operators. I still have a few.

Im sorry, but IMHO.. any ham radio operator who needs a multi-meter is not worthy of the title (LOL).. 73 de N4YTM

PS.. did you happen to notice that your post which I quoted was post # 73 for you? 73 OM!

[AC0GV]

Originally Posted by gordon2

Im sorry, but IMHO.. any ham radio operator who needs a multi-meter is not worthy of the title (LOL).. 73 de N4YTM

PS.. did you happen to notice that your post which I quoted was post # 73 for you? 73 OM!

Thanks I'll be saving that. Also, we have a lot of new young hams with No equipment of any kind. In fact the local Menomonie, WI group is testing again in the morning. The cheap/free meter is a good one to start with, you are not out much when you burn it up.
ANd this side note; For any one interested, it is easier to get a ham radio license than ever before.

[JohnR333]

Originally Posted by Stephen Migotsky

I'm trying to get power for a wireless backup camera from the taillight in my 2008 Scamp 16. There are three wires and two bulbs. top bulb is the backup light with the red wire; the lower bulb functions as the parking light, brake light, turn light with two wires--green and black. Which one has the + (positive) power and where is - (negative) ?

Just turn on your running lights and open the tail light u want to tap. Pull off one wire at a time untill light goes put. Mske sure you dont pull off or un screw ground wire. Test with different bulb hold bulb side to ground screw and touch your wire to the bulb base

[Siepierski]

Originally Posted by Stephen Migotsky

I'm trying to get power for a wireless backup camera from the taillight in my 2008 Scamp 16. There are three wires and two bulbs. top bulb is the backup light with the red wire; the lower bulb functions as the parking light, brake light, turn light with two wires--green and black. Which one has the + (positive) power and where is - (negative) ?

I bought an airstream from a dealer in April. It has a backup camera that is connected to the tail lights. Parking/ headlights need to be on for it to work. I find it very handy not only for backing up but also if a friend is following me.

[computerspook]

Originally Posted by Stephen Migotsky

I'm trying to get power for a wireless backup camera from the taillight in my 2008 Scamp 16. There are three wires and two bulbs. top bulb is the backup light with the red wire; the lower bulb functions as the parking light, brake light, turn light with two wires--green and black. Which one has the + (positive) power and where is - (negative) ?

You are likely not going to find a wire that has power during backup only if that is what you are looking for. And bigger problem, you are probably going for a wireless connection to a display in the front of the tow vehicle. These wireless transmitters are VERY LOW powered. And the camper actually has a lot of rf shielding in the insulation. So you are very unlikely to get a signal to where you want it. Before you go to much effort you might want to just find a way to power the camera at the back of the camper and then park the TV in front of it about in the towing position. See if you can get the display to display anything.

[Stephen Migotsky]

I got the backup camera working with the monitor in the TV, but in the process I shorted out the fuse in the Scamp. Now I've got to fix that.


Thank you for your responses. The moral of this story: Beware what you do with lose wires.

[floyd]

If you charge your trailer going down the road, then wire it to your house battery with a switch. or better yet to the TV charge line to the battery.
Use a diode...

Then it will work only when the TV is hooked up and running!

[computerspook]

Originally Posted by Stephen Migotsky

I got the backup camera working with the monitor in the TV, but in the process I shorted out the fuse in the Scamp. Now I've got to fix that.


Thank you for your responses. The moral of this story: Beware what you do with lose wires.

I have a can of fuses in my scamp for this purpose. One hint. As long as you have blown the fuse go ahead and finish wiring it up and then replace the fuse.

[computerspook]

By the way I am probably in a way doing what you want plus some. I kind of want to see what is behind my scamp when I am driving. So I got a wireless security camera and 4 inch screen that both run on 12 volts. This is not a "backup camera" designed to get the 10-12 foot front to back of a vehicle. But a "security camera" actually only about twice as much as a backup camera and screen :-) It is designed to run a signal like 50-100 foot. Of course the camera is bigger that that little backup camera you got. Like about 2 inches on a side. And it is outdoors rated, but probably not vehicle outdoors rated. So I am making a mount to place it in my rear window of my scamp. I will be powered off of the 12 volt where the antenna amp is at. The screen will hang in front of my review mirror when I have the trailer hooked up. Then I got a military surplus case to hold them when parked.

[Trill136]

I have one of those wireless backup cameras wired in my truck, makes it easier when returning to the hitch to pick up the trailer.

I had an interesting thing happen during the summer. As I was on the highway, I noticed 2 possibly 3 times that my screen came to life. Flickering lines, some kind of picture. I thought that maybe my reverse switch, on the truck transmission, might have been a bit flakey and turning the camera on and off. Not a biggie, check it when I get back home in a week.

On the way back home, driving through the mountains, I got stuck in a line of traffic. When I had the chance I pulled out and began to pass. Strangely enough, about 1/2 up the line of traffic, my backup screen began to flicker, then settled down and stayed on.

I got the experience of watching myself pass the rig at the head of the line! I guess that their wireless camera was using the same frequency as mine, and, they had rigged it to watch the traffic behind their trailer.

Kinda cool

[computerspook]

Originally Posted by Trill136

On the way back home, driving through the mountains, I got stuck in a line of traffic. When I had the chance I pulled out and began to pass. Strangely enough, about 1/2 up the line of traffic, my backup screen began to flicker, then settled down and stayed on.

I got the experience of watching myself pass the rig at the head of the line! I guess that their wireless camera was using the same frequency as mine, and, they had rigged it to watch the traffic behind their trailer.

Kinda cool

One of the reasons that it is some times hard to get the wireless backup cameras to run the full distance of the trailer and TV is that there really are not very many frequencies for this so mostly you will be sharing it with someone. So the FCC requires that they only transmit the power needed for the task they are doing. That is why a security camera can have higher power than a backup camera.

[Trill136]

'Morning C'spook,

Would you mind sharing the model number/source for your cam/monitor?

I just have one of the wireless ones on my truck plate mounting and would like to do something about one for the rear of the trailer.

thx