New Coupler Questions - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-26-2016, 05:54 PM   #1
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Name: David
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New Coupler Questions

As I continue to upgrade our '93 13' Scamp I am planning on having a new coulee installed. But I have several questions and I am hoping you can all help me out.

1. I will need an A-frame coupler. QUESTION: Are all A-frames a standard angle?

2. I plan to upgrade to a 2" ball. QUESTION: Is there any reason not to?

3. QUESTION: Any thought on this one? Atwood Trailer Coupler with Yoke Latch - 2" Ball - A-Frame - 5,000 lbs - E-Coat Finish Atwood A-Frame Trailer Coupler AT80072

4. Upgrading couplers will give me a chance to install an A-frame jack. I like the mechanics of these jacks - centered. But here I have several QUESTIONS:

A. Any reason to not do this?

B. I'm worried about the portion hanging under the frame. Should I be?

C. I'm convinced I would swing for a sidewinder. But what length jack would I want? They range from 11" to 22"+.

Thanks all for the help! David.




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Old 03-26-2016, 06:09 PM   #2
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About "the portion hanging under the frame"; the jacks are available with different projection lengths there, so you have to figure which one will work for you
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Old 03-26-2016, 06:43 PM   #3
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Your 13 is pretty low to the ground, so you'd probably want one of the shorter ones. But which length exactly, I can't say. You'd have to measure your height when hooked up and look at the jacks' specs. I am a big fan of swing-away jacks and I think you will be glad you got one; my buddy wrecked his jack going over a hump of some sort, so he switched to a swinging jack too.

Just in case you haven't seen them before, have a look at the Bulldog coupler,


The Quickbite is about $200, but it looks so strong and convenient, I'm tempted.
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Old 03-26-2016, 06:52 PM   #4
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Correct. Thank you. I'm hoping there are some out there with first hand info from first hand choices. We shall see...
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Old 03-26-2016, 06:58 PM   #5
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Thanks, Mike. The low hanging frame, and possibility then of "jack-strike" is precisely my concern.
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Old 03-26-2016, 07:00 PM   #6
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This jack might work for you.. check it out and see what you think.
I got one so I could lower the jack quickly and open my tailgate.. which would not open with the Scamp OEM jack. But it also allow you to raise the jack pretty high. Let me know if you wants pics of it fully raised.
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Old 03-26-2016, 07:12 PM   #7
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The "Jack-E-Up" is another option
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Old 03-26-2016, 07:44 PM   #8
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Both of those options look super helpful!
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Old 03-26-2016, 07:45 PM   #9
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Any thoughts on a 2" mount as opposed to 1 7/8"?
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Old 03-26-2016, 07:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaMScampers View Post
As I continue to upgrade our '93 13' Scamp I am planning on having a new coulee installed. But I have several questions and I am hoping you can all help me out.
1. I will need an A-frame coupler. QUESTION: Are all A-frames a standard angle?
2. I plan to upgrade to a 2" ball. QUESTION: Is there any reason not to?
3. QUESTION: Any thought on this one? Atwood Trailer Coupler with Yoke Latch - 2" Ball - A-Frame - 5,000 lbs - E-Coat Finish Atwood A-Frame Trailer Coupler AT80072
4. Upgrading couplers will give me a chance to install an A-frame jack. Ilike the mechanics of these jacks - centered. But here I have several QUESTIONS:
A. Any reason to not do this?
B. I'm worried about the portion hanging under the frame. Should I be?
C. I'm convinced I would swing for a sidewinder. But what length jack would I want? They range from 11" to 22"+.
Thanks all for the help! David.
Hi Dave,
I think the angle of the dangle is probably the same for most all full size trailers. But with the narrower width of some FGRVs it should be different.
Going to a 2" coupler is a good idea as they are pretty much the standard. I changed out all mine to 2" cuz I got tired of changing the stingers.
The Atwood coupler is good. I like the bulldog also as it's easier to latch up, at least to me, but it's a bit overkill for these molded rigs.
As far as a jack, I've had all of them over the years and all worked fine. The biggest problem I've ever had with a jack was not being able to drop the tailgate with some of them. If you use a side mount it can be positioned back just enough to fix that. By sidewinder, I take it you mean the jack handle. Just keep in mind the clearance from the LP tank ect. I like the top handle as once the weight is taken off I can run it up or down with just a wrist motion, no full arm turns.
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Old 03-26-2016, 10:01 PM   #11
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A 2" ball makes complete sense to me. No downside that I can think of.
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Old 03-26-2016, 10:10 PM   #12
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Thanks all.
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Old 03-27-2016, 11:34 AM   #13
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If changing to a 2 inch ball you might as well purchase a 2 inch ball with a large 1 inch threaded shank instead of the smaller threaded shank you have on your 1 7/8 inch ball. A 2 inch ball with the larger shank will be rated at 5K lb.

Might as well go big since you are already spending money and on the chance you may need it in the future.
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Old 03-27-2016, 02:59 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by vintageracer View Post
If changing to a 2 inch ball you might as well purchase a 2 inch ball with a large 1 inch threaded shank instead of the smaller threaded shank you have on your 1 7/8 inch ball. A 2 inch ball with the larger shank will be rated at 5K lb.

Might as well go big since you are already spending money and on the chance you may need it in the future.
You can buy a 1-7/8" ball with the large shank as well.
My 2004 Scamp13 came with 1-7/8" hitch. I wanted a vertical jack, so when Scamp switched to 2" with a vertical jack and a short leg. I simply bought the jack and added a piece of angle behind the hitch. then drilled two holes in the new cross piece and used the existing hole where the chain was attached to mount the jack.
My 1-7/8" ball has a large shank.
Since every trailer I use needs a different height drawbar anyway its not an inconvenience.
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