New cushions, laminate on all doors and new curtains!! - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-11-2009, 05:17 PM   #29
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Trailer: Trillium 13 ft
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Hi Bryan

Your Trailer looks great !
I was wanting to do the same to my cupboard doors and especially my table.
But I am concerned because I have never put a laminate/arborite top on anything !
What do you cut it with, what kind of saw?
What did you use for edging around the table? Where do they sell it?
Is there a trick to applying the pc of laminate with the contact cement?
The guy at the home depot said I would have to use dowels and he really was not making sense.
Please help, my table is very ugly (brown and scratched )

thanks

-Darren
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Old 10-13-2009, 11:20 AM   #30
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Name: Rick & Rei
Trailer: 1970 Campster
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Love the colors-great job-you`ll enjoy it.
We went to S. Dakota in June-10 day trip-beautiful country-spent many nights in WalMart lots-but did stay in campgrounds every so often we could shower and wash clothes. Had a great time and are wanting to go somewhere-anywhere-again soon.
Love our little Compact Jr.-cozy and easy to tow-fixing it up with new curtains, putting in new carpet, new refrigerator-just dressing it up-hope to post pictures if I can figure it out.
Mrs. C
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Old 10-15-2009, 09:20 PM   #31
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Half of the neighborhood that was built in the mid 50's where I grew up in Southern California had that Formica pattern called "Boomerang." I believe that it was resurrected years back because I remember seeing it as a newly added pattern some time ago.

Very nice work, Bryan, and thanks for sharing.
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Old 10-15-2009, 10:01 PM   #32
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Trailer: 1991 Scamp 16 ft
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Dang, where have I been on this post? So many unanswered questions. How rude!

The fabric is just from Joann Fabric. They are really stiff so I need to wash them once and see if they loosen up a bit.

The laminate was pretty easy to put on. Remove all of the doors and hardware. Label where they go both on the door and the trailer. Measure and cut (I used a circular saw with a fine blade) the pieces about two inches bigger in all directions so you have some wiggle room. Apply contact cement to both surfaces and let it dry for 15 minutes. You can pick them up and handle them and they will not be sticky but once they touch, they're stuck together. The guy talking about the dowels was saying that you lay dowels across the cabinet face and then lay the laminate on top of the dowels. Then you remove one dowel at a time and work your way down the board. I just laid the laminate on top with careful planning. Actually, dropping the cabinet door on top of the laminate would be easier than dropping the laminate on the door. Easier to see what you are doing that way.

I then ran them all through my router with a straight-edge bit with a bushing that ran along the outside edge of the cabinet. Since the edge of the cabinet is curved, there will still be about 1/4 inch of laminate sticking "over" the cabinet. To get rid of this I put a straight-edge router bit in to my router table with it sticking up above the surface the same thickness as the laminate. I adjusted the fence so that it would cut off only the scrap and not the wood edge. This was probably the trickiest part. I just stained the cabinet edges with black stain when I was done. It went right over the brown.

Maybe I need to draw some pictures!

Honestly, without a router, I have no idea how you would do this.


Richard, I would love to see some pictures of your trailer. We went to South Dakota several weeks ago for our first big trip. We are planning on going to Independence, KS this next week as we have been reading the Little House on the Prairie series to our two boys so we're going to go there and look at the recreated cabin from when they were there. It's a good excuse to use the camper. We also might go look at Big Brutus, the largest all-electric shovel while we're down there.
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