New egg hatch.... - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-24-2011, 07:29 PM   #1
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New egg hatch....

The EggCamper has a/c under a dinette that vents thru the side behind a painted grill. I have always thought is was a poor design with bugs in the summer and cold air in the winter. I ordered a custom sized 14X16 hatch cover to cover the outside hole. I feel it will make the trailer warmer in the winter and more airtight. I ordered from these people https://www.pellandent.com/RV_Produc...?CategoryID=97

I also ordered a radius cover to install on curb side to gain access to storage under the bed. Here are some pictures. Both are solid aluminum and very well built, unlike some of the plastic hatch covers available elsewhere. A little pricey but well worth it.
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Old 08-24-2011, 07:42 PM   #2
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looks good Jim. I think outside hatches are the bees knees! Out of curiosity, what are the outside and inside dimensions of the radius corner one... and if I may be so bold... what was the cost?
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Old 08-24-2011, 07:52 PM   #3
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the square hatch was 14X16 - $187
the radius is 12X14 with 3" radius corners-$162
crate and shipping-$55
you add it up, they will make custom sizes, with/out locks, insulated/non, straight/radius, hinge top/bottom/side
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Old 08-24-2011, 08:12 PM   #4
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Thanks. I knew about Pellandent, I posted their website in a topic where someone was looking for a particular size refrigerator vent. But, you're the first I know about that's actually ordered something from them. I was curious to cost, etc.

THANKS.
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Old 08-24-2011, 08:17 PM   #5
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The nice thing about the aluminum hatch is you can bend them a little more to fit the curvature of the egg. I tried that with a plastic hatch and it cracked.
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Old 08-24-2011, 08:47 PM   #6
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Thanks for the link! I have this notion that when I cut out a hole in my Burro to make way for such a hatch, I could use the cut-out chunk to make the door.

But, um, it's good to have a back-up option in case things don't go as planned...
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Old 08-24-2011, 08:59 PM   #7
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You will need a hinge to start with. In addition these hatches are water proof in that they are recessed but the hatch is outside the recess and there are rubber gaskets to keep water out. Do not see how you can duplicate that set up.
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Old 08-25-2011, 06:32 AM   #8
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Jim nice job and a quick question. Does your ac unit drain through the bottom by way of a hole/tubing ?
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Old 08-25-2011, 07:10 AM   #9
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Actually I can not find where the condensate goes? I have been told that the newer a/c models "eat" the condensate by reusing it to cool the unit. But I have never found any water or evidence of water either in or underneath the trailer. But, being a "belt and suspenders" person, I have drilled a series of small drain holes along the bottom piece of hatch frame to allow any water to drain thru the hatch frame while it is open, in the event there is some.
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Old 08-25-2011, 08:01 AM   #10
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AC Drain

I installed an AC unit in the bottom of the Scamp's closet. I did include a drain thru the floor from the AC unit. After running the unit for hours I can see water in the bottom of the AC unit but nothing has really come out of the tube yet.

The AC unit is biased towards the drain, tipped towards the back.

I forced water to drain by significantly lowering the front of the trailer to make sure the tube wasn't blocked and water came out.

Other than that extreme test, no water has come from the air conditioner's drain tube even after hours of running on humid days.

We have two muffin fans that exhaust the hot air from the rear of the AC unit thru the floor. Possibly this flow of air, hot and fast, causes the moisture to evaporate. We will soon run a test with the inlet side pressurized by two more muffin fans. At maximum these four fans are capable of moving 400 cubic feet per minute, not to mention the squirrell cage like fan that moves air thru the rear coils.

I've been surprised that there hasn't been more water however, it seems to do the job of cooling our little trailer.

More testing to come

Norm
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Old 08-25-2011, 09:41 AM   #11
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Jim & Norm , that is very interesting I didn't know that about the newer units. I have a 3 yr old 6k unit that I bought from Lowe's in the fall when they were trying to get rid of them. I wonder if its like yours ?
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Old 08-25-2011, 01:24 PM   #12
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The AC unit I have has a hole in the rear right corner as a drain. I bought a piece of hose from Lowes and used 3M 5200 to cement it in. This short piece drips into a square plastic piece.

The square plastic pieces has a hole in the center with another piece of hose in it that goes thru the floor. I did this as a two step because it makes it easier to remove the AC unit.

Our AC unit is old, came with the trailer. It is a GE, 5000 BTU unit that draws less than 5 amps. When I compare the insides, all these small AC units seem the same.
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Old 08-25-2011, 02:43 PM   #13
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Thanks Norm.
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Old 08-25-2011, 09:42 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jen b View Post
Thanks for the link! I have this notion that when I cut out a hole in my Burro to make way for such a hatch, I could use the cut-out chunk to make the door.
Jen, what you're want to do has been done successfully. Check out this picture from Nancy (in Oregon) and Mike's Scamp 5th wheel. http://www.watsonmountain.com/pics/scamp/sidedoor.jpg I guess all you need to do is find the vent that fits and swap out the aluminum/plastic for the piece you cut out of the trailer. Folks need to think outside the box...
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