New Fantastic Fan going in... - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-07-2012, 07:13 PM   #15
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Now all you need is cover for the fan. It will cover all the screws and nuts and you can use it in foul weather. Nice job.
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Old 07-07-2012, 07:14 PM   #16
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Wouldn't the steel plate bolts be better if reversed with the nut hidden by the ceiling fur and a smooth bolt head on outside covered with caulk?
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Old 07-07-2012, 07:21 PM   #17
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Now all you need is cover for the fan. It will cover all the screws and nuts and you can use it in foul weather. Nice job.
If you typically camp in dry, hot weather, I'd skip the cowl/cover. I dislike ours a lot. It really cuts the airflow, and requires running the fan much higher than without it. and, it's noisy.
In rainy weather, I love it. Just my opinion.
Sherry
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Old 07-07-2012, 07:23 PM   #18
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Wouldn't the steel plate bolts be better if reversed with the nut hidden by the ceiling fur and a smooth bolt head on outside covered with caulk?
Yes indeed! And that's how it will be. But for getting everything in place and lined up it's much easier to put the nuts in on top. This isn't the final, final install. Call it the final dress rehearsal. The nuts will be under the fur and the bolts will be cut to final length at that point.
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Old 07-07-2012, 07:27 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by mszabo View Post
Now all you need is cover for the fan. It will cover all the screws and nuts and you can use it in foul weather. Nice job.

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Originally Posted by SherryNPaul View Post
If you typically camp in dry, hot weather, I'd skip the cowl/cover. I dislike ours a lot. It really cuts the airflow, and requires running the fan much higher than without it. and, it's noisy.
In rainy weather, I love it. Just my opinion.
Sherry
With the rain sensor I might skip the cover, those stick up a lot to begin with and with my lift/riser on there it'll stick WAY up. But who knows in rainy BC I might end up wanting to be able to vent during the rain.

The bolts are not in the final configuration and will be flush when reversed (nuts under the ceiling) and cut to length.
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Old 07-08-2012, 06:09 AM   #20
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Great looking job Dylan. Thanks for sharing the repair/install process. I know that you have to do a little dress rehearsal , so that the fan/cover fits right or the inside cover will be a little off. Good Job
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Old 07-12-2012, 12:54 AM   #21
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I have the stainless bolts now, but concentrating on getting my woodwork finished up now. Somehow I avoid caulking and siliconing, I don't like the sticky, messy stuff.
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Old 07-12-2012, 01:25 AM   #22
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Please continue to avoid siliconing. Avoid it forever!
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Old 07-12-2012, 01:59 AM   #23
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Well, I have butyl tape for under the fan, but the spacers I think are not ideally suited for a permanently soft sealant like butyl. My factory fan had butyl under it, but it still had a siliconed border.

I have several tube of a caulk, I think silicon based, that the salesperson said, "this is what all the RV techs at the local shops buy."

So yeah, uncertainty about just what the best method for sealing is, is also a factor in me not hurrying to finish that project up. At least while the trailer is being worked under a roof!
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Old 07-12-2012, 06:11 AM   #24
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Dylan, They do make caulk that doesn't contain silicone, just have to read the label.
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:51 AM   #25
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What is the reason for avoiding silcon again?

Other than it being a huge pain to remove (STICKS to that gel coat!) I'm not sure of it's downsides, or the advantages to the alternatives?
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:28 AM   #26
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If you ever paint your egg, its a real pain to remove the silicone. Silicone will have problems with new paint, fish eye etc. Others who have painted their's can give you more info.
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Old 07-13-2012, 10:28 AM   #27
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Hi All, Nice installation job! I have a Fantastic Fan in my larger trailer.
I find that the standard vent cover does indeed restrict airflow.
Therefore, I would look at this cover:
Maxxair II Vent Covers - JCWhitney
Regards, Larry H
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Old 07-13-2012, 01:13 PM   #28
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That is a very helpful thread!! That thread and the experience filling these holes has inspired me to try to use fiber glass in a few places (firstly around my hot water heater door) that I was just planning putting painted wood.
Inspiration and perspiration seems to be what makes our "eggs" thrive. If you don't mind, how much did it cost to get that spacer machined and what material did you use?

Bookmarked this thread with all the helpful pictures, I don't know when but sooner or later I want a power roof vent, considering the size of a scamp 13 a good fan should really help cool it down.

Silly con does not stick well to a surface as a bead but some of it permeates surface and is really hard to remove. You can peal the bead up but chunks and "stain" remain, preventing re-caulk. Oh and it does not work all that well.
Looking at the pictures it looks like you could put buytl tape under spacer, might want to sort of spread it out a bit with your fingers so it is not as thick.
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