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Old 07-21-2012, 09:53 PM   #41
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Name: Jill
Trailer: Eggcamper
Minnesota AND Florida
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Yes, that white thing. Our instructions say that the gasket is placed around the hole on the exterior, between the roof and the fan. You didn't use yours? So I guess the question is, is the butyl tape a better alternative to the gasket provided?
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Old 07-22-2012, 05:32 AM   #42
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Trailer: 78 Trillium 13 ft / 2003 F150
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Hello,
When installing a Fantastic Fan on my pal's fiberglass
bodied motorhome an interior trim ring was needed so
I spoke to the manufacturer and asked about the foam
gasket that came with the kit. The representative
told me that the gasket was specially made and
silicone impregnated specially for this application.
The gasket worked well and the vent has not leaked.
Of course Dicor was puddled on all the screw heads
and around the edge of the vent.

On my large 5th wheel trailer I installed a similar fan
and used butyl tape between the fan frame and the
elastomeric membrane that covers the roof. Again,
Dicor was used as the final step. No leaks.

Note on using butyl tape: Make sure it is warm and
very pliable. Sometimes I use a double layer so that
there is plenty of 'squeeze-out'. After letting the
installation sit over night trim off the excess and
then use Dicor.

Hope this helps. Larry H
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Old 07-22-2012, 06:04 AM   #43
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Rather than sand to get rid of silicone... which may damage the gelcoat, you may want to read this thread of silicone removers... that's what I'd do. YMMV

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post299447
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Old 07-22-2012, 09:31 AM   #44
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Ah, I used the Motsenback's and got good results similar to that link. But the DAP sounds like it'll take off the light residue that's left. I was going to use a little bit of 400 grit, super fine, just to smooth the surface. I'm pretty sure I could use the butyl and Sikaflex on it as it is, but wouldn't mind getting that last trace. If I come across the DAP before I button up this install (It's on hold while I layout all the various installs) I'll get some.
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Old 08-06-2014, 03:01 AM   #45
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Name: Tim
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What is and where did you find the spacer to go on top of the trailer? I'm having a heck of a time finding one and FF wants a lot for shipping!
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Old 08-23-2014, 04:46 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimR View Post
What is and where did you find the spacer to go on top of the trailer? I'm having a heck of a time finding one and FF wants a lot for shipping!

The spacers I used where custom fabricated polyurethane. I think there's a hread on that part of the project if you search around for it. Found a plastics shop with a nice CAD/CAM system. I took them my Fantastic Fan and a basic plan I had sketched out. Was not cheap. I think about $300 with the materials. But the added head room is worth it!

I got the version of the FF for thick roofs with the highest lift, but custom spacers of some type will be needed.

If I had to do it again I would not have used polyurethane. I'd want something lighter and more compatible with adhesives and sealants. But it's working great several years after installation. Thanks to a covering of roofing, sealing tape. Something like this: http://www.amazon.ca/EternaBond-RSW-.../dp/B002RSIK4G
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Old 08-24-2014, 04:42 PM   #47
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I had I guess a bit of an epiphany on what I'm going to try. I will use 3/4" plywood (stay with me now) but then I am either going to fiberglass it, or spray it down with a rubber sealant! Then on either side of it (one to the roof, one to the fan) I will put a layer of butyl tape. Then put screws through all of it and tighten it down till the tape starts to squish out. Hopefully the plywood will remain water tight as that is the only part that I think will rot if it gets wet.
Thoughts?



Quote:
Originally Posted by dylanear View Post
The spacers I used where custom fabricated polyurethane. I think there's a hread on that part of the project if you search around for it. Found a plastics shop with a nice CAD/CAM system. I took them my Fantastic Fan and a basic plan I had sketched out. Was not cheap. I think about $300 with the materials. But the added head room is worth it!

I got the version of the FF for thick roofs with the highest lift, but custom spacers of some type will be needed.

If I had to do it again I would not have used polyurethane. I'd want something lighter and more compatible with adhesives and sealants. But it's working great several years after installation. Thanks to a covering of roofing, sealing tape. Something like this: http://www.amazon.ca/EternaBond-RSW-.../dp/B002RSIK4G
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Old 08-24-2014, 05:30 PM   #48
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Seal all the rough edges on the plywood before you install?

Rot happens...
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Old 08-25-2014, 03:35 PM   #49
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Name: Tim
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Yes taking the edges off would been needed for sure Donna. I even found the spray seal today in white! This might even look half decent when I'm done!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Seal all the rough edges on the plywood before you install?

Rot happens...
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Old 08-30-2014, 08:51 PM   #50
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I considered wood and I'm sure it could be done well with wood if done right. Rot and decay fears and my frustration trying to use fiberglass cloth/resins are why I chose to have something fabricated from plastics.

How ever it's done, I think using a riser of some sort is definitely worth it if your head comes near your egg's ceiling. If I stabbed my head on the crank of my original fan one more time I was going to loose it!

Good luck! Let us know how it comes out.
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