New floor - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-24-2008, 03:13 PM   #15
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Hi Janice,
I used the Honey Oak pattern in the same stuff in my Dolphin. As soon as I finish the cabinets, I will post some pics. Sure is easy to work with isn't it?
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Old 07-24-2008, 11:15 PM   #16
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Hi Janice,
I used the Honey Oak pattern in the same stuff in my Dolphin. As soon as I finish the cabinets, I will post some pics. Sure is easy to work with isn't it?
I was impressed enough that i'm going to now be putting in in the main bathroom, not just our downstairs bath/laundry! Am intersted in some pics of your floor, as the honey oak was one of the colours im considering for the main bath.
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Old 07-25-2008, 09:13 AM   #17
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Hi,

I am picking some Allure to do my Trillium floor. I notice most people run the laminate from side to side rather than from front to back. Any particular reason you have done this? Generally the rule is to either a.) Run it parallel with the longest part of the room or b.) Run it in the direction of the light flooding the room.
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Old 07-25-2008, 10:38 PM   #18
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Hi Booker...I paneled our 13' Trill with the strips going lengthwise. The cut off end of the second strip,first row starts off the next row and the staggered effect adds the illusion of length in the short space.
Have fun!
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Old 07-26-2008, 09:39 AM   #19
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Thanks Alistar,

I ended up running it side to side. No particular reason, just had to start somewhere. Allure is FAR easier to install then regular laminate - I just did a 700sq ft space this week with regular laminate so I would know =). I have spent less then 2 hours on it and I have only 1 angled corner where the step occurs and a few thin bits to do. I am a bit concerned about the weight - its probably 2x or 3x the weight of the carpet I am replacing.

Looks like 1 box will do it. On install make sure you have a sharp utility knife. I used a framing square as a straight edge so I could run the length of the piece for square. I bought some double side carpet tape but haven't used it as the fit is pretty tight on the lower floor. I will be using it on the upper floor.

The only tricky part has been the round out on the cabinet between fridge and furnace and the angles for the seats - it is not a 45% angle. Once again I recommend the old trick of making the piece out of card first then tracing it onto the final piece.

I will post some pics when done.
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Old 07-27-2008, 09:07 PM   #20
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Never realized how hard it is to take good pictures of a trailer floor. Don't mind the dirty floor, friend is staying in it at the moment =). I am using Almond caulking at the edges to transition with the round corners of the Trillium. At the back of the big floor picture you can see the new 3 stage WFCO 8725 Convertor I had installed this week - w00t!



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Old 07-28-2008, 12:42 PM   #21
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I think we're going to install a similar floor in our 13' Scamp. I've been assuming that I'd strip the original carpet and then prep the floor for the new flooring as if I were doing this in a house. However, would it be reasonable to just lay this new flooring material over the carpet as a floating floor? In that case, I would only do the main floor, not the bed/dinette area. We'd get some benefit from the carpet as insulation. My gut feel is that it would be better to do a more permanent installation, caulked, etc, but thought I'd ask about this first.

Thanks,
Parker
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Old 07-28-2008, 01:02 PM   #22
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I pulled the carpet in ours and there was some glue left on the floor from a previous lino job. With laminate as long as the floor is relatively level you can put it just over top the glue - if there are high spots then you can belt sand then down.

You could also just put it over your carpet as you mention - I know we will miss the warm feeling of the carpet. However, we have 2 boys and the carpet that was in the trailer was pretty much destroyed after 1 big trip from various foot prints and other boy mess =)

EDIT: About the caulking. One issue I ran into with this floor is the 'grain' in it. Generally I run some electrical tape along a floor edge, caulk the seam, run a wet finger down the seam to set it nicely then remove the tape to leave a clean edge. Due to the deep grain I had some issues with the caulking seeping into the grain - makes it a bit nit picky to clean up.

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What type of leveling jacks are best when camping and what type of jack is used when storing camper for the winter-the kind that raise the camper tires off the pavement. Hubby is working overtime so I am trying to help by finding these items-thanks.
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Old 07-28-2008, 01:34 PM   #23
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I installed a floating cork floor over the carpet in our Scamp Saturday.

We didn't want to take up the original carpet because it was in such good shape. The original owners had alway kept it completely covered with a peice of sacrificial carpet, but I hated the way that was alway moving and bunching up.

I had a box and a half of cork click & lock planks left over from our kitchen remodel so I covered the main floor with it.
I like the way it looks and feels - plus the cork is easy to keep clean in the kitchen...we'll see how it works out in the Scamp.
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Old 07-29-2008, 02:04 PM   #24
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So I put in the Traffic Master Allure floor in the Surfside this weekend. Much better than the ugly 70's dirty Shag carpet that was in there. One box wasn't enough. I likely needed 4 or 5 more planks. It's too bad they only sell them by the box. I will have to buy another box and finish it next time I go back to the inlaws. In the pics you will see that I didn't quite have enough to finish under the table. For the time being I just put a mat over the unfished portion (See pic). I'm happy with the way the floor turned out but we already got a few scratches in it.


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Old 07-29-2008, 02:17 PM   #25
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Yes, this floor is not as durable as mdf laminate. Laminate has an aluminum oxide coating. However, moisture wise I think Allure wins hands down.
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Old 07-29-2008, 03:51 PM   #26
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Quote:
I installed a floating cork floor over the carpet in our Scamp Saturday.

We didn't want to take up the original carpet because it was in such good shape. The original owners had alway kept it completely covered with a peice of sacrificial carpet, but I hated the way that was alway moving and bunching up.

I had a box and a half of cork click & lock planks left over from our kitchen remodel so I covered the main floor with it.
I like the way it looks and feels - plus the cork is easy to keep clean in the kitchen...we'll see how it works out in the Scamp.
I installed the cork flooring in our Boler.I agree it is so comfortable to walk on and cleans up very nicely.I had a little problem knowing how to do the step to the table area.I was able to find peel and stick tile that matched the cork exactly.I cut them to fit and added a little no nails to ensure a good bond.I was very pleased with the finished product.The cork was not cheap but hopfully it will last and it certainly made the trailer look good....Pat.
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Old 07-29-2008, 04:42 PM   #27
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I have a question on the installation/waterproofness.. I understand the pieces glue together side to side, but what happens at the end of the four foot length? What keeps water from seeping through where the lengths butt up? Is there overlapping glue there, too, and if so, what happens when you shorten a piece?
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Old 07-29-2008, 04:50 PM   #28
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Yes, at the edges of the Allure there will be a space that you need to fill for complete water resistance. I used straight caulking on mine because I could not find any flexible trim I liked at home depot - it's mostly industrial style large trim. You would still need to caulk the bottom of the trim in any event.

EDIT: Sorry, at the end of the 4' pieces there is also a tab. Here is picture showing it:
http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/ol-images/...asterupdate.jpg
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