New Modification To C-J - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-18-2007, 02:24 PM   #29
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So Cory,
What is that for? Are you going to put in an AC unit, or a bunk just for the dog?

Bobbie & I have talked about a Cracked egg rally, sounds like fun, lets do it somewhere in Calif.

Linda
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Old 06-19-2007, 07:07 AM   #30
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Trailer: 1972 Compact Jr (some interior mods)
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Steve....How long are each roof brackets before shaping the ends and putting the
bow in? How many are needed?Did you build a bending jig to put the arch in
so they are uniform?
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:56 AM   #31
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Quote:
Steve....How long are each roof brackets before shaping the ends and putting the
bow in? How many are needed?Did you build a bending jig to put the arch in
so they are uniform?
The bows are about 48 inches long. There are five of them.

I removed the poptop from the trailer and built a jig in my workshop to hold it upside down. The center of the jig was half an inch lower than the edges, so when I put bricks inside the top, the center portion was deflected down (upward when installed on the trailer) half an inch, and voila, there was my roof contour.

I then built one master rib, taking care to get it symmetrical and a nice tight fit against the underside of the deflected top, and then built four more using the master as a template. The ribs were not all exactly alike, so I stamped a letter into each one to keep them organized. I was able to fine-tune the lengths of the downturned ends so that they'd "snap" into place above the edge molding, which held them while I drilled the holes and bolted them into place.

Each rib is held by two 1/4 inch stainless screws at each end, with rubber sealing washers.

I was careful to leave enough space between the aft two ribs so that if Sis ever wants to replace her 9-inch vent with a bigger one (fantastic fan?) she'll have space to do it.

One problem that emerged was that since the roof is a lot stiffer, I was unable to insert the locking pins in the lift mechanisms when the top is down--I couldn't deflect it downwards enough to make the holes line up. I ended up making 1/4 inch plastic spacers to put under the upper lift mechanism brackets, spacing them downwards 1/4 inch, and now the holes line up fine.
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Old 06-19-2007, 10:27 AM   #32
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[quote]I mean this:
Attachment 8309

It's a cabinet to take a trunk (full o' camping gear). I combined two vertically-hinged doors into one horizontally-hinged one which lies flat on the floor when open. The raised wood strips are skid rails; the short vertical pieces are pivoting stops to keep the trunk from sliding back out again and knocking the door open.

It's all Sis' idea. She plops her enormous old trunk onto the door and slides it into the recess, then flips up the stops and closes the door. Easy to access the trunk whether she's inside or outside the trailer.

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Old 06-19-2007, 06:35 PM   #33
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Thanks Steve........for the data on the roof supports.I will get at
it.There is always a way or two to get locking pins to work if
it changes height.Yours look very good.Now that the top is covered
with rug.It sags just a little.The braces will take that out.
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