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11-04-2013, 04:49 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
Posts: 2,085
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New ParkLiner battery box
On the ParkLiner Facebook page is pics of the new battery box on the tongue...I'm on my droid so can't upload them.
If all goes according toplan 11/23 I will have mine installed!
__________________
deryk
All that is gold does not glitter, Not all those who wander are lost; The old that is strong does not wither, Deep roots are not reached by the frost.... J.R.R. Tolkien
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11-04-2013, 05:42 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deryk
On the ParkLiner Facebook page is pics of the new battery box on the tongue...I'm on my droid so can't upload them.
If all goes according toplan 11/23 I will have mine installed!
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Thanks Deryk, boy, what a nice looking set-up!
Just go to their web page ( ParkLiner Fiberglass Ultralight Travel Trailers -) and scroll down on the right side to click on their facebook page.
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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11-04-2013, 05:58 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
Posts: 2,085
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Looks much better then the pictures from a ParkLiner that was for sale here a few months back that the batteries were exposed.
__________________
deryk
All that is gold does not glitter, Not all those who wander are lost; The old that is strong does not wither, Deep roots are not reached by the frost.... J.R.R. Tolkien
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11-04-2013, 06:01 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,578
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Agreed looks real nice, tire well update shown too. Thanks for the heads-up.
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11-04-2013, 07:16 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Tim
Trailer: 2006 Casita
New York
Posts: 764
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That's a nice looking box, and I should have one in Feb.
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11-04-2013, 08:13 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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It does look better but two questions - do you really want all those screws right into the frame? Doesnt look real simple task to take off the battery cover - normally just a simple clip to get off...
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11-04-2013, 08:49 PM
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#7
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Moderator
Trailer: 2009 19 ft Escape / 2009 Honda Pilot
Posts: 6,221
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Nice looking solution. Much better than your generic plastic box.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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11-05-2013, 04:15 AM
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#8
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Member
Name: Aaron
Trailer: Parkliner
North Carolina
Posts: 58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H
It does look better but two questions - do you really want all those screws right into the frame? Doesnt look real simple task to take off the battery cover - normally just a simple clip to get off...
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Clips can break bend rattle loose with for self tapping screws it will not come off unless owner wants it to
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11-05-2013, 04:48 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AmcGee
Clips can break bend rattle loose with for self tapping screws it will not come off unless owner wants it to
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Personally I think it is a very elegant solution. Kudos to you guys!
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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11-05-2013, 09:06 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AmcGee
Clips can break bend rattle loose with for self tapping screws it will not come off unless owner wants it to
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Thats true but my concern was in regards to the practise of putting screws into an enclosed beam such as a trailer frame which is a major structural component. In my profession I was taught that such practises were to be avoid when possible as any opening into the beam could result in allowing moisture to enter the interior channel and result in the rusting of the beam from the inside out thus reducing its structural integrity. It was also my understanding that by putting holes in a structural frame you may also be impacting the structural integrity of the beam itself. In my industry this type of application the preferred way would have been to weld additional cross members to the underside of the tongue/frame to support the battery holder and the battery holder itself would have been bolted to that cross member. Similar to how a number of other trailer brands have their batteries mounted/secured to the tongue.
Its been 25 years since I took any formal training on that topic though so perhaps that is thought of as old school thinking these days.
My concern as a trailer owner with a battery cover that is more difficult to remove than what is traditionally found on trailers is that it may result in my not being as diligent in doing battery maintenance as I should be. Also would be a bit of a pain to have to deal with if I wished to connected my portable solar panels or trouble shoot a wiring issue with a multimeter.
I agree with the others it looks good and a much safer position for the storage of the batteries than the previously used location.... simple my observation of a possible future issue in regard to the means of attachment that those who may be considering doing this change on their own may want to consider and look into the topic a bit further.
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11-05-2013, 10:09 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H
Thats true but my concern was in regards to the practise of putting screws into an enclosed beam such as a trailer frame which is a major structural component. In my profession I was taught that such practises were to be avoid when possible as any opening into the beam could result in allowing moisture to enter the interior channel and result in the rusting of the beam from the inside out thus reducing its structural integrity. It was also my understanding that by putting holes in a structural frame you may also be impacting the structural integrity of the beam itself. In my industry this type of application the preferred way would have been to weld additional cross members to the underside of the tongue/frame to support the battery holder and the battery holder itself would have been bolted to that cross member. Similar to how a number of other trailer brands have their batteries mounted/secured to the tongue.
Its been 25 years since I took any formal training on that topic though so perhaps that is thought of as old school thinking these days.
My concern as a trailer owner with a battery cover that is more difficult to remove than what is traditionally found on trailers is that it may result in my not being as diligent in doing battery maintenance as I should be. Also would be a bit of a pain to have to deal with if I wished to connected my portable solar panels or trouble shoot a wiring issue with a multimeter.
I agree with the others it looks good and a much safer position for the storage of the batteries than the previously used location.... simple my observation of a possible future issue in regard to the means of attachment that those who may be considering doing this change on their own may want to consider and look into the topic a bit further.
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It is not an enclosed beam Carol. It is wide open where the ends meet under the triangular tongue. It is my belief is is better to be open than closed, but of course, that is just my opinion based on decades of welding.
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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11-05-2013, 10:27 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank_a
It is not an enclosed beam Carol. It is wide open where the ends meet under the triangular tongue. It is my belief is is better to be open than closed, but of course, that is just my opinion based on decades of welding.
Frank
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If as you say the beam is open at one of the ends then thats great but only if the trailer is stowed or hitched up noise up to permit the moisture to drain out of the beam as it appears to me to be closed on the tongue end.
Frank my comments were as stated just my personal concern based on my person experience that I felt some may find it worth while to explore further. Obviously your life experiences and views may differ
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11-05-2013, 10:34 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H
If as you say the beam is open at one of the ends then thats great but only if the trailer is stowed or hitched up noise up to permit the moisture to drain out of the beam as it appears to me to be closed on the tongue end.
Frank my comments were as stated just my personal concern based on my person experience that I felt some may find it worth while to explore further. Obviously your life experiences and views may differ
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Carol, at the back, the chassis tubing is welded to the rear bumper which is open on both ends. Now that we have this straightened out, let's have some fun!
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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11-05-2013, 10:38 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: jim
Trailer: 2022 Escape19 pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,710
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It appears that it will just drop in the frame behind the propane and the battery weight should keep it there. The top may need another attachment method, but the bottom can just drop in without any screws.
__________________
Jim
Never in doubt, often wrong
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11-05-2013, 10:40 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Carl
Trailer: 2013 Lil Snoozy #161 (SOLD)/2010 Tacoma
NE Oklahoma
Posts: 2,358
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I really like the battery box. Nice looking.
And it looks like many won't even know it's
a battery box. Incognito?........LOL
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11-05-2013, 10:45 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlkeigley
I really like the battery box. Nice looking.
And it looks like many won't even know it's
a battery box. Incognito?........LOL
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I sure like it. It's a real elegant design solution to a problem. ParkLiners are exceptionally well designed in general! Of course, I'm biased...
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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11-05-2013, 11:27 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
It appears that it will just drop in the frame behind the propane and the battery weight should keep it there. The top may need another attachment method, but the bottom can just drop in without any screws.
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Yup which is how many other trailer manufactures mount them when using a custom cover and no bottom on the box itself.
We are all here to learn and share our experiences. I like most others here are not wishing bad will on PL. Simple as others have stated time and time again hopeful that they will resolve their current issues and make a success of themselves.
In the industry I worked in where beams of this type were used as structural members it was considered best practises to avoid screwing anything more than necessary into them, to avoid degrading structural integrity, for more than one reason. Your experience may well be different. That's fine, we are all here to share and learn from one another. Due to the divergent opinions on this topic, it seems to me that again like all things read on the internet if anyone is considering such a modification they may wish to look further into, before committing themselves to it. Especially items that may impact personal safety.
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11-05-2013, 06:24 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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I wouldn't think twice about it. That's how our floors are held on. That size hole in that size steel is basically insignificant. Since it's on top, it's also in compression, so almost no chance of it breaking at the hole. The HAZ from welding a bracket on coulda be even worse, I don't have the fancy computer programs to play with it.
As an unrelated side note, that's why greasable u-joints have a right and wrong way of installing them, although almost nobody knows that.
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11-05-2013, 06:31 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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All I can say here is it was not my intention to get anyone angry with me. I prefer open tubing to closed tubing so it will breath. Personally I like chassis built out of channel, like my F-150. Holes are much less of a concern there, and so far, that chassis has been going 12 years, and I intend to keep it going at least 12 more. I love that truck!
All my best to all of you!
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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11-05-2013, 08:17 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: Mark
Trailer: Parkliner
Alabama
Posts: 172
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I like the looks of the new battery box, but it seems to me they really didn't fix the core issue. The real issue is that there is something about the combination of the Optima batteries and the Progressive Dynamics PD-4045 that can cause the batteries to overheat and vent. I am also not sure I like the idea that if the batteries do cook they would now do so next to the propane tanks. I have seen pictures of batteries that have exploded in enclosed RV compartments and they have blown off the door of the compartment (there is a youtube video in which a guy shows the aftermath and at first he thought vandals had pried off the door to steal the battery.) Of course, I don't like the idea of them exploding under my head either (or my feet)!
Maybe this is only an issue for anyone who has let their batteries full discharge, but I don't feel confident that has been fully proven either.
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