New Scamp Rib Door Seal - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 01-21-2015, 02:29 PM   #21
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Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
That will help keep the seal from "aging" if it's not over-exposed to the elements. I know mine is concealed for the most part behind the door.

Sounds like Scamp DEFINITELY has a winner with this seal. Now I'd like to see a NEW Scamp with it installed. I take it the "lip" is very flexible which is most likely the reason they will now install it at the factory on new trailers. Before, they were concerned (as per Kent Eveland) that the more stiff D-shaped seal could push out on a new door a bit causing problems after it fully cured. That's why they requested a few months of curing before installing the seal.
no real difference in stiffness or consistency for any of the three we have used, just a change in attitude at Scamp!
This latest seal is the best choice, but the others worked well.
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Old 01-21-2015, 02:32 PM   #22
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Sounds good Floyd. Stop by site 026 at Scamp Camp and give me some moral support when I put our seal on.

Tom
Will do! See you there! We're on site # 76!
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Old 08-17-2015, 01:09 PM   #23
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Name: Sergey
Trailer: 2014 Scamp 16 layout 4, 2018 Winnebago Revel 4x4
SW Florida
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With the new seal the door is very hard to close, the seal above strike plate is too thick. Did you install continuous seal or cut it near the strike plate? A picture of the lock area would be very useful.
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Old 04-08-2016, 06:10 PM   #24
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Trailer: Scamp 13 ft
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Preparation to install new seal

Two questions here.
Assuming that I install the new type of Scamp door seal on the door jamb rather than onto the door itself, how much do I need to clean off the old adhesive and rubbery mess left on the jamb from the old seal?
I've tried getting this gunk off but even Goof Off seems to not work.
It would be nice if Scamp would post a video of this new seal being applied.
Question 2: Does anyone know if the new models that use this seal come with it on the door jamb or on the door itself?
Thanks!
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Old 04-08-2016, 06:42 PM   #25
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Name: Tom
Trailer: Scamp 16
Michigan
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Mike, the ribbed seal goes on the trailer, not the door. It's been about 14 months and several long and rainy trips, and the seal is working out just fine. The hardest part of the installation was cleaning the old seal and glue residue off the trailer. I used Goo Gone and Brakleen as Floyd suggested, and it took a few hours. I also recommend getting a small plastic scraper for Walmart or other store that sells painting supplies.

I cleaned the area completely. Didn't leave a trace of glue from the last seal. I'm an aircraft mechanic and that's just the way I roll, but I didn't want to give the new seal any excuse to come unglued. It was time consuming, but worth it. The new Scamps 2015 and later(?) have the new seal.

Here is a link to another discussion of this seal installation:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...val-67625.html

Hope this helps. Good luck!

TomK
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Old 04-08-2016, 08:19 PM   #26
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Thanks!

Tom, that helps a lot. Thank you very much. I plan to remove all the old gunk and adhesive too. I can't imagine that a new seal would adhere well otherwise. I'm just not excited about doing it.
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Old 04-09-2016, 12:31 AM   #27
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I like Tom took the time to remove all the old foam tape mess. Took awhile to do but very happy with the new seal. Worth the effort. Unlike the old foam one which I had replaced a couple of times the newer rubber one has not moved at all in the 2 years its been on the trailer. You really have to soak the old stuff in Goo Gone and let it sit for a bit. You may also try WD40 as well to clean it up.
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Old 04-09-2016, 02:37 PM   #28
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Once again, thanks for this topic, advice and responses. I used some Lift Off, a plastic scraper, alcohol (on the doorway, not in me), and some Windex. Lots of elbow grease and time. Got all the gunk off. The new door seal went on easily and the door closed nicely. I'll leave it alone for a while to cure, or whatever.
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Old 06-03-2016, 02:27 AM   #29
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Name: Steve Robison
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New Jersey
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I have installed the new seal as well but the door is very hard to close. I haven't installed the door handle yet but with the previous weather stripping that was on there i only had to give the door a slight pull for it to latch.

With this new seal I am afraid that I will have to pull the door closed so hard that I will pull the inside door handle right off. I think the only solution will be to install very thick spacers between the door and door handle so it will actually latch.
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Old 06-03-2016, 03:21 AM   #30
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Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluetang99 View Post
I have installed the new seal as well but the door is very hard to close. I haven't installed the door handle yet but with the previous weather stripping that was on there i only had to give the door a slight pull for it to latch.

With this new seal I am afraid that I will have to pull the door closed so hard that I will pull the inside door handle right off. I think the only solution will be to install very thick spacers between the door and door handle so it will actually latch.
It will close easier with time and use. Many folks that have changed it out had the same question.
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Old 06-03-2016, 04:59 AM   #31
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Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
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Originally Posted by Borrego Dave View Post
It will close easier with time and use. Many folks that have changed it out had the same question.
Second that... when I got my Scamp new last year I felt the same way.. I thought the handle in the middle of the door would pull out.
But within a month the door closed much easier.
If you do add spacers I would make sure I could remove them when the seal gets broken in.
And of course, be sure and use both handles when pulling the door shut from inside (it is absolutely a two hand operation). And from inside or outside, always turn the handle to the open position and THEN close the door, then release the handle while keeping the door closed.
When closing the door from the outside, I always give the door an extra push near the latch. I find that sometimes the latch is not fully engaged until I do that and I think that the problem that some people have had with the door opening in transit is partially because the latch only gets partially engaged.
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Old 04-25-2017, 07:58 PM   #32
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Name: John
Trailer: 13' 2012 Scamp
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Just installed the newer Scamp rib door seal on our 13' 2012 scamp.

What a PITA it is to remove that 0.0001mm clear double sided tape from under the open cell foam door seal. Wow.

But the result has been super positive. Love the new seal so far. The door closed about the same as before, didn't really notice a huge change. I did find 3 sections of daylight leaks around the door with the new seal (had some with the old crappy one also). Took the advice earlier and just lifted off those sections a little, bought some 3M VHB / "outdoor" tape from Home Depot, and used some of my closed cell 2mm black foam from my fly tying supplies (Michaels or any craft store has this). Created a little sandwich of double sided VHB tape and foam and just used it as a shim. So far so good, no daylight anymore.

My 2012 Scamp had this bizarre little 5-6" metal bar on the leading edge of the lower door threshold which I took as a "what the hell" try at making it more water proof at some point along the way. But with the new seal being pretty thick, I just removed that little bar, epoxied up the holes, and put the new rib seal all the way across the lower threshold. Given the angles at each end the new seal would cover, I did 5-min epoxy on the last 1.5" of each end of the lower threshold seal and that worked great.

A far amount of work, but I was facing it anyway as the 2012 open cell foam had shifted right off its tape on the leading door edge and was a problem so at least this new rib seal route is an improvement.

Someone asked about the door latch area. I just went right over it with the continuous piece of new rib seal, just like the open cell foam was. I had no problem with clearance or pressure around it. But maybe my older door has a little "age warpage" to match the opening better than a brand new unit.
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Old 04-26-2017, 06:22 AM   #33
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Trailer: '04 Scamp 19D, TV:Tacoma 3.5L 4door, SB
Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnF View Post
Just installed the newer Scamp rib door seal on our 13' 2012 scamp.
... Took the advice earlier and just lifted off those sections a little, bought some 3M VHB / "outdoor" tape from Home Depot, and used some of my closed cell 2mm black foam from my fly tying supplies (Michaels or any craft store has this). Created a little sandwich of double sided VHB tape and foam and just used it as a shim. So far so good, no daylight anymore....
I had to increase the thickness of the gasket, exactly like what you have done, sometime last year. Some of the double sided tape leaves exposed edges and they collect dirt and dust and look awful. Try some talcum (baby) powder sprinkled and rubbed into the sticky edges. They remain white and nothing sticks to them any more.
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Old 04-26-2017, 06:46 AM   #34
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Name: John
Trailer: 13' 2012 Scamp
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I trimmed my tape width a little with a scissors before applying to more closely match the width of the tape on the new rib seal. Hopefully that avoids any lifting or exposed sticky areas.
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Old 04-26-2017, 07:36 AM   #35
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Scamp didnt have the "lipped" seal when I sought to replace the worthless SPONGE seal it came with in 2010. They DID send me the "D" seal. I too ran into the double-sided tape issue. What I found was, it was leaving a super-sticky surface on itself. Once I found what a pain it was going to be to remove, I simply cleaned and left it for the new D-seal to stick to. That's been going on 7 yrs now without a single trace of the D-seal coming loose. Of course, the door stays closed the majority of the time.

This is funny now, but wasnt then.... when I got it installed, I had the wife take a water hose and shoot the door with me inside to look for leaks. WOW! At the top, water started coming and it looked like Niagra Falls in there ! I was trying to look through the window to tell her to stop! I couldnt open the door obviously...finally she saw me. Then I used "light" to find and measure the actual gaps... a hard lesson learned!

To fill the area that was causing the seal gap, I used some of the "Extreme" 3M "all weather" double-sided tape. I took pieces and rolled it up tapering the ends (sorta like the old rolled cigarettes from years ago!) Remember, this gap was significant! I cut the lengths needed, rolled the tape very meticulously, carefully placed the rolls behind a portion of the "D" seal (kicking the outer portion of the D-seal out with the rolls i'd just made)...and..no more leaks and as I said..still holding.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Scotch-1-in...d-Tape/3690666
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Old 09-04-2018, 03:23 PM   #36
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Trailer: Boler
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I'd love to see some photos of a boler with the new scamp seal- I'm debating buying it for my '74 boler, but am hesitating as I have yet to visualize how to properly install it. Thanks in advance!


Link to door seal: https://www.scamptrailers.com/parts-...al-detail.html


My sweet little egg has much work to be done on it, but we're slowly getting there
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Old 09-21-2018, 07:34 AM   #37
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Trailer: Boler
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I am thinking of using this on my '79 Boler as well. Did you end up purchasing the seal? I'm also wondering how the D seal and the "edging trim" fit together. Seems no one mentioned that. Have any ideas Jasmine?
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