New Scamp Rib Door Seal - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-03-2016, 03:27 AM   #29
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Name: Steve Robison
Trailer: Scamp
New Jersey
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I have installed the new seal as well but the door is very hard to close. I haven't installed the door handle yet but with the previous weather stripping that was on there i only had to give the door a slight pull for it to latch.

With this new seal I am afraid that I will have to pull the door closed so hard that I will pull the inside door handle right off. I think the only solution will be to install very thick spacers between the door and door handle so it will actually latch.
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Old 06-03-2016, 04:21 AM   #30
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006
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Originally Posted by Bluetang99 View Post
I have installed the new seal as well but the door is very hard to close. I haven't installed the door handle yet but with the previous weather stripping that was on there i only had to give the door a slight pull for it to latch.

With this new seal I am afraid that I will have to pull the door closed so hard that I will pull the inside door handle right off. I think the only solution will be to install very thick spacers between the door and door handle so it will actually latch.
It will close easier with time and use. Many folks that have changed it out had the same question.
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Old 06-03-2016, 05:59 AM   #31
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
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Originally Posted by Borrego Dave View Post
It will close easier with time and use. Many folks that have changed it out had the same question.
Second that... when I got my Scamp new last year I felt the same way.. I thought the handle in the middle of the door would pull out.
But within a month the door closed much easier.
If you do add spacers I would make sure I could remove them when the seal gets broken in.
And of course, be sure and use both handles when pulling the door shut from inside (it is absolutely a two hand operation). And from inside or outside, always turn the handle to the open position and THEN close the door, then release the handle while keeping the door closed.
When closing the door from the outside, I always give the door an extra push near the latch. I find that sometimes the latch is not fully engaged until I do that and I think that the problem that some people have had with the door opening in transit is partially because the latch only gets partially engaged.
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Old 04-25-2017, 08:58 PM   #32
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Name: John
Trailer: 13' 2012 Scamp
Wisconsin
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Just installed the newer Scamp rib door seal on our 13' 2012 scamp.

What a PITA it is to remove that 0.0001mm clear double sided tape from under the open cell foam door seal. Wow.

But the result has been super positive. Love the new seal so far. The door closed about the same as before, didn't really notice a huge change. I did find 3 sections of daylight leaks around the door with the new seal (had some with the old crappy one also). Took the advice earlier and just lifted off those sections a little, bought some 3M VHB / "outdoor" tape from Home Depot, and used some of my closed cell 2mm black foam from my fly tying supplies (Michaels or any craft store has this). Created a little sandwich of double sided VHB tape and foam and just used it as a shim. So far so good, no daylight anymore.

My 2012 Scamp had this bizarre little 5-6" metal bar on the leading edge of the lower door threshold which I took as a "what the hell" try at making it more water proof at some point along the way. But with the new seal being pretty thick, I just removed that little bar, epoxied up the holes, and put the new rib seal all the way across the lower threshold. Given the angles at each end the new seal would cover, I did 5-min epoxy on the last 1.5" of each end of the lower threshold seal and that worked great.

A far amount of work, but I was facing it anyway as the 2012 open cell foam had shifted right off its tape on the leading door edge and was a problem so at least this new rib seal route is an improvement.

Someone asked about the door latch area. I just went right over it with the continuous piece of new rib seal, just like the open cell foam was. I had no problem with clearance or pressure around it. But maybe my older door has a little "age warpage" to match the opening better than a brand new unit.
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Old 04-26-2017, 07:22 AM   #33
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Name: Paul
Trailer: '04 Scamp 19D, Tacoma 4.0L 4door, SB
ex VT, now CO
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Originally Posted by JohnF View Post
Just installed the newer Scamp rib door seal on our 13' 2012 scamp.
... Took the advice earlier and just lifted off those sections a little, bought some 3M VHB / "outdoor" tape from Home Depot, and used some of my closed cell 2mm black foam from my fly tying supplies (Michaels or any craft store has this). Created a little sandwich of double sided VHB tape and foam and just used it as a shim. So far so good, no daylight anymore....
I had to increase the thickness of the gasket, exactly like what you have done, sometime last year. Some of the double sided tape leaves exposed edges and they collect dirt and dust and look awful. Try some talcum (baby) powder sprinkled and rubbed into the sticky edges. They remain white and nothing sticks to them any more.
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Old 04-26-2017, 07:46 AM   #34
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Name: John
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I trimmed my tape width a little with a scissors before applying to more closely match the width of the tape on the new rib seal. Hopefully that avoids any lifting or exposed sticky areas.
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Old 04-26-2017, 08:36 AM   #35
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
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Scamp didnt have the "lipped" seal when I sought to replace the worthless SPONGE seal it came with in 2010. They DID send me the "D" seal. I too ran into the double-sided tape issue. What I found was, it was leaving a super-sticky surface on itself. Once I found what a pain it was going to be to remove, I simply cleaned and left it for the new D-seal to stick to. That's been going on 7 yrs now without a single trace of the D-seal coming loose. Of course, the door stays closed the majority of the time.

This is funny now, but wasnt then.... when I got it installed, I had the wife take a water hose and shoot the door with me inside to look for leaks. WOW! At the top, water started coming and it looked like Niagra Falls in there ! I was trying to look through the window to tell her to stop! I couldnt open the door obviously...finally she saw me. Then I used "light" to find and measure the actual gaps... a hard lesson learned!

To fill the area that was causing the seal gap, I used some of the "Extreme" 3M "all weather" double-sided tape. I took pieces and rolled it up tapering the ends (sorta like the old rolled cigarettes from years ago!) Remember, this gap was significant! I cut the lengths needed, rolled the tape very meticulously, carefully placed the rolls behind a portion of the "D" seal (kicking the outer portion of the D-seal out with the rolls i'd just made)...and..no more leaks and as I said..still holding.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Scotch-1-in...d-Tape/3690666
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