New Silverware Drawer with Ventilation - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-06-2008, 01:03 AM   #1
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I finally replaced my "prototype" silverware drawer with a new, permanent one. This idea started when Lynne and I bought a sivlerware drawer organizer that fit perfectly right-to-left, but was longer front-to-back than our Scamp utensil drawer. To fit the darn thing in I had to take the back of the drawer off and screw the mesh organizer to the side rails of the original drawer. While I was at it, I removed the bottom of the drawer, which wasn't needed anymore. Problem solved . . . the mesh organizer was rigid enough that the drawer no longer needed its back or bottom, and the new drawer could work as a drying rack for damp utensils, too.


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Now I'm replacing the door and drawer fronts in the kitchenette with new ones, I decided it was time to update the slightly klunky prototype with a final version.


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This is the drawer without the front. It's made from 1/4" plywood, with the ply doubled up under the aluminum "U" brackets that serve as the drawer runners.


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A scrap piece of 3/8 plywood slides in the aluminum "U" channel. When the drawer is closed, the ply panel keeps stuff that's in the drawer from bouncing out. (This is how Scamp did the original drawer, and I liked the idea.)


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The sides of the drawer extend beyond the wire mesh organizer by a couple inches so these screws have a place to go. When screwed all the way in they hit the fiberglass cabinet front and serve as drawer stops so the drawer doesn't slide all the way out. (Also a Scamp original standard.)


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This is the ply panel that supports the drawer. The two thin strips of wood on top of the support create a space between the thing the support is screwed into (which for us is the bottom of our gas stove) and the top of the drawer so the aluminum "U" slides have room to move.


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Here's the drawer without it's front hanging from the plywood. Note the markings on the top edge of the drawer opening in the fiberglass cabinet and the center of the plywood support.


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The drawer and front, open and filled with utensils and closed.

Changing from particle board construction to plywood is not only stonger, it's lighter, too. The 3/8 ply support panel is about half the weight of the original OSB support Scamp uses, ditto on the plywood sides and back.
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Old 07-06-2008, 09:09 PM   #2
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Another great job and innovative solution.
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Old 07-07-2008, 09:19 AM   #3
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How are you keeping it from sliding open during transit?

Wait, hold that question--you must be using more of your powerful little magnets, right?
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Old 07-07-2008, 12:30 PM   #4
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Verrrrrry nice! I love it!
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Old 07-07-2008, 11:55 PM   #5
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How are you keeping it from sliding open during transit?

Wait, hold that question--you must be using more of your powerful little magnets, right?
Haven't decided on anything yet. I tried the magnetic catch, but found the offset created by magnet and strike set the drawer forward of the cabinet just enough that it looked like it wasn't closed all the way. Funny thing is the cabinet doors use the same system, but look just fine.

I'll probably still do the magnetic catch, but this time I think I may epoxy a higher power magnet inside the cabinet (higher power because the fiberglass will separate magnet and metal, so I'll need the stronger pull) and make a recessed area inside the bottom of the drawer front a metal plate or second magnet.
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Old 07-08-2008, 08:44 AM   #6
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I think the folks at Scamp should have you guys on their product development team.
very inventive ideas.
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Old 07-08-2008, 12:05 PM   #7
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I just finished a drawer under my stove, and I'm contemplating putting one of these on it for travelling safety.
http://www.childsafetystore.com/.sc/ms/dd/...0by%20Safety1st

It's a leftover from a recent grandchild-proofing project. Easy to use day to day, very solid, and when you don't need to latch the drawer, you can fold the catch down out of the way.
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Old 07-08-2008, 06:34 PM   #8
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I just finished a drawer under my stove, and I'm contemplating putting one of these on it for travelling safety.
http://www.childsafetystore.com/.sc/ms/dd/...0by%20Safety1st
Ohhh, Dave, that's a great idea! My youngest just graduated from high school and none of my kids have kids yet, so I'd completely forgotten about Child Safety latches! Thanks!

Quote:
I think the folks at Scamp should have you guys on their product development team.
very inventive ideas.
I think Reace at Escape Trailers probably keeps tabs on the ideas posted here, but many of the changes aren't practical for comparatively budget-conscious fiberglass trailer buyers. Certainly his 5th wheel takes ideas and concepts from Mike & Nancy's remodeled Scamp 5er (as did I), but to sell their trailers manufacturers have to cut corners on everything from the materials they use to offering floorplans that will appeal to the widest range of buyers.

My remodeling work would be very expensive to reproduce and is really kinda specific to the needs of a trailer for two adults and the occasional one or two grandkids.

One example of cutting corners in these trailers is the heavy use of heavy MDF particle board. MDF's advantage is cost; not only is it 1/3 to 1/2 the price of plywood, it's also faster and easier to cut, so manufacturers can save a bundle on the cost of making the trailer over using plywood. MDF's downside is it is no where near as strong and weighs 70-80% more than the same thickness of plywood. Trailer manufacturers know they could make stronger, lighter trailers if they replaced MDF particle board with plywood, but their production costs would rise as a result, too, making the trailers more expensive to buy and harder for their target consumers to afford.

The good news is that someone like me, who is willing to spend hours and hours of time re-doing the inside of an almost-new (2005) trailer, can turn a plain Scamp trailer into a deluxe-feeling rig that weighs the same or less than the original.
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:32 PM   #9
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Looks nice. I have my utensil drawer out and want to replace the MDF. This is a great idea. Did you make the support piece wider and cut the fiberglass at all, or just keep the same width?
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:59 PM   #10
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Love, love, love it! great job!
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:05 PM   #11
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Thanks for sharing the detailed plans for the rest of us. I don't have a drawer in my '77 and have been laboring over ideas for attaching the rails without putting more holes in the exterior wall. This certainly is a good solution. Great job!
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Old 04-10-2013, 08:23 PM   #12
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Great idea PeterH!

Thanks to PeterH I got the inspiration to rebuild my silverware drawer. The material in the original drawer would swell up and bind anytime we got it wet, and the bottom was starting to come off too.
I used the same idea as peter but used 1x4 lumber to make mine, and I expanded the opening a little to allow the drawer to be slightly wider and deeper.
Haven't decide on the final drawer front yet, this is just simple pine with clear gloss, but that part will be easy to replace if I decide on a different style or color.
First 4 pictures show the ventilated insert and how it matches up to the original drawer size.
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IMG_0208.jpg   IMG_0209.jpg  

IMG_0210.jpg   IMG_0211.jpg  

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Old 04-10-2013, 08:27 PM   #13
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This group of photos shows different stages of construction, and shows that the slides on the new drawer are farther apart than the old slide distance. I cut a new piece of 1/2" plywood at the correct width and mounted that under the stove like the original piece.
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IMG_0212.jpg   IMG_0213.jpg  

IMG_0214.jpg   IMG_0217.jpg  

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Old 04-10-2013, 08:30 PM   #14
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These last photos show the completed drawer ready to use for this weekend's camping trip to Buck Hall recreation area in SC. Eventually I plan to replace all the original doors in the camper so they match.
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IMG_0218.jpg   IMG_0219.jpg  

IMG_0220.jpg  
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