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11-25-2012, 07:40 PM
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#101
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Senior Member
Name: Nita
Trailer: 1988 Bigfoot 5th Wheel Deluxe
Posts: 153
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Jared,
Good job done on the new kingpin hitch and your other mods. We converted a '98 Scamp 5th wheel to a kingpin and here is our story:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tch-37367.html
We've since sold the Scamp and moved on to a Bigfoot 5th wheel which came with a true 5th wheel kingpin.
The pictures of your roof remind me that we had to replace our hatch covers too. Scamp carried the brand we needed and they were easy to change out.
Hope you get to enjoy your Scamp soon.
Nita
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11-25-2012, 11:22 PM
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#102
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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Thanks Nita! I'm surprised so few have converted them. Your conversion would be easier for somebody running a slider. I'm using a fifth wheel that goes in my hidden gooseneck hitch, so no slider. I cheated and made the hitch longer to make up for it, otherwise I wouldn't have had to cut it all off and start over.
The vents definitely need replaced. For now, they're all goobered up so they won't leak. I think they will be a spring project, along with resealing windows and replacing the rubber in them.
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11-28-2012, 04:16 PM
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#103
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 4500
Posts: 2,050
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Uh hum! Okay it's after the holidays. LOL! I've been waiting patiently for Jared to get back to work so I can get more ideas.
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11-28-2012, 06:30 PM
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#104
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Hammel
Uh hum! Okay it's after the holidays. LOL! I've been waiting patiently for Jared to get back to work so I can get more ideas.
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Did I sleep through Christmas again????
Francesca
__________________
............... ..................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
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01-06-2013, 09:38 PM
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#105
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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Well, I think I've got the interior plans more nailed down (I hope).
I'm heading towards '57 chevy tropical turquoise for the color.
Thanks to the amerigo thread, the dinette benches and couch will be turquoise, along with all the cabinet doors, closet door, shower door, stove, stove hood and fridge.
thanks to the backsplash thread, I'm going to do a '50's diner style chrome backsplash between both counters and the upper cabinets.
At some distant point, the cushions will all be redone. I'm thinking torquoise and ivory vinyl on one side (easy to clean for eating), and fabric on the other (for sleeping).
I also bought some wood rot hardener stuff to give it a shot on the soft spot under the rear window, since it's under the table and will never bear much weight. At worst, I'm out $9.
I should have a 20 gallon fresh water tank, pd 4045 distribution center, atwood electric jack kit, and a few other little things showing up soon.
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01-07-2013, 07:16 AM
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#106
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 4500
Posts: 2,050
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Was wondering when you were starting back up on that thing!
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01-07-2013, 12:34 PM
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#107
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Senior Member
Trailer: Cardinal (Restoring)
Posts: 245
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Hi Jared,
Love your Scamp. Its what Hubby and I want when its time to retire and full time. Your doing a real nice job on the mods.
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01-08-2013, 02:42 PM
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#108
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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Woohoo, I have parts!
New propane hoses, automatic switching regulator, outside hot/cold water hookup with quick connect hose, electric motor for the landing gear, pd4045 power distribution center, quick pins for the jacks (hope they fit).
New steps, pre mangled. It'll take less time to straighten them, then it will to return them.
The 20 gallon tank fits with plenty of room to spare!
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01-08-2013, 03:06 PM
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#109
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared J
New steps, pre mangled. It'll take less time to straighten them, then it will to return them.
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Ain't that the truth!
It's sure looking good- You've done more on that trailer in the two months since you got it than I've done in the seven years that I've had mine!
Makes me think I should get out there and start tearing things up....
Francesca
__________________
............... ..................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
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01-08-2013, 03:26 PM
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#110
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 4500
Posts: 2,050
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Same quick pins as mine. Unfortunately too big. I can force mine in so all I have to do is ream out the holes a bit and they should work fine.
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01-08-2013, 05:42 PM
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#111
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Hammel
Same quick pins as mine. Unfortunately too big. I can force mine in so all I have to do is ream out the holes a bit and they should work fine.
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I'll probably turn the pins down in the drill press.
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01-08-2013, 08:07 PM
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#112
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 4500
Posts: 2,050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared J
I'll probably turn the pins down in the drill press.
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Shouldn't take much, like I said I can force mine in. Would hate for one to get stuck though.
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01-13-2013, 10:41 PM
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#113
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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Nothing too interesting too show. I'm ripping out all the water lines/water pump/old tank/fixing floor rot (trying an epoxy that's supposed to soak in and strengthen it first), filling old floor holes, etc.
After that I can put the new flooring down, and then start installing the new tank/water system. I sure wish it would warm up, though. I can't put a big enough heater in it to keep it warm, by running it off an extension cord. I just bought an rv electrical panel to put on the garage, but I need to find the siding adapter thing first for the panel to sit on.
Here's a picture I never posted in this thread, though.
Come on warm weather! I need this done by memorial day *gulp*.
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01-14-2013, 04:07 AM
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#114
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 4500
Posts: 2,050
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I think you'll get there. I wanted to get some stuff done before Quartzite but Vegas has been in a deep freeze for about 10 days now. As an example we had one day last winter where the temps reached below freezing. Our normal temps are 58 high 42 low this time of year so excessively cold.
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01-19-2013, 10:02 PM
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#115
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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Well, I've been getting nowhere. I went to install the electric motor on the jacks...
The rollpin isn't in the gearbox shaft, and of course, it's between the sizes I have. The pre drilled holes in the gearbox don't match up to one of them on the motor, and the other one has different size threads. I don't like the idea of threads in that thin of metal anyway, I think I'm just drilling clear through and using nuts.
The wiring is backwards, the fuse is on the short run of wire, and I need it on the long run. The switch isn't weatherproof, so now I have to figure out an enclosure for it. No luck finding anything small enough, yet.
*sigh* Wasted day.
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01-19-2013, 10:11 PM
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#116
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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My remedy for a day like you've had is:
Take a few of these Special Liquid Pills and get back to the project tomorrow!
Francesca
__________________
............... ..................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
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01-20-2013, 08:21 AM
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#117
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 1,861
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Jared
I just installed my landing gear motor this week. They did not use a roll pin in my drive shaft. They used a solid pin in mine, the pin is the same size as the hole in the shaft. To hold it in place they struck the pin length wise on two sides with a small chisel to expand the steel so it could be pressed/driven in place. My slight problem was the expanded pin would not fit the motor shaft slot. A small amount filing the sides of the pin took care of the fit.
My fuse holder used a spade fuse with a waterproof cap. The fuse holder was on the short leads which are the power leads and the motor operated in the correct direction. The leads just barely reached the battery terminals without splicing.
My orig. switch was recieved broken due to no packing in the shipping box. The seller promptly sent me a new switch assy. The switch body is held to the faceplate with very/very thin plastic, make sure your wire harness is supported and not hanging down from the switch. I ran my wires over the man. handle tube and used the tube to support the wires.
As for the pin, you may find a nail to make one out of. The fit is really tight so the size of your pin should be the size of the motor drive slot. You could expand it for a press fit. Or leave the nail head on, drill the other end of the nail, safety wire it in and wrap it in tape. If you have access to acft. hwd. you may be able to find a small sholdered bolt and use a nylock nut, and wrap it up with tape.
Eddie
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01-20-2013, 11:38 AM
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#118
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 4500
Posts: 2,050
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Jared, how did you remove your rear benches. I haven't even looked at how to get them out yet. I know it would be a lot easier getting the old carpet out and putting in new flooring with them out.
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01-20-2013, 07:30 PM
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#119
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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Thanks for the info, Eddie. The short wires aren't close to reaching my battery, unfortunately. I'm going to mess with it tomorrow, if the weather plays nice. I might have an idea for an enclosure, we'll see.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Hammel
Jared, how did you remove your rear benches. I haven't even looked at how to get them out yet. I know it would be a lot easier getting the old carpet out and putting in new flooring with them out.
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It's pretty easy. The top is held in with screws at the back, the bottom is held in with screws on a flange inside the bench. It's a bit of a pain getting around the water tank, but doable.
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01-21-2013, 12:41 AM
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#120
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 4500
Posts: 2,050
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Speaking of the lift motor I was looking at mine today and noticed that the stock "gear housing" doesn't have any holes to mount the motor to. I do have the new one so can work with it but I'm sure others out there may have the same problem.
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