Oh my door.. with pictures - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-27-2013, 09:17 PM   #29
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Name: Donna D
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Cathy, I'm really going off the rails here... but instead of trying to build an air-craft door to fit the trailer, have you considered changing the shape of the door opening to fit a FLAT door.. AKA Play Mor II ? This is a crappy pic, but it's the best I have to offer: Fiberglass RV - Historian's Album: Play Mor II - Picture
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:03 PM   #30
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If you are back to wood check out this You Tube. Kind of like what I was trying to describe but you have to use your supports to define the bend.
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Making a curvy board - YouTube
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Old 08-29-2013, 12:42 AM   #31
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Name: Cathy
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Donna, I have considered a flat door but decided that I just don't want one. Good suggestion though.
Eddie, haven't had a chance to watch video...thank you for the link.
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Old 09-10-2013, 03:24 AM   #32
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Your door project

Was just looking at your door project.
You have a challenge.
Based on my experience, I wouldn’t put any more time or money into trying to fix the door. In my opinion, You’ll just be throwing money at it; a lot of time and frustration - work and rework and wind up with a heavy door that still won’t work right.
I’d just build a new door – one of 3 ways.
1) All new wood – stringers and thin bendable plywood;
2) New wood (same as above) and add fiberglass cloth for shaping and strengthening the edges and corners – using only Epoxy resin
Don’t try and go cheap and try to use fiberglass resin on wood. It won’t last and you’ll have
Eventual delamination before you know it. take a look at all the wood boats that people have laid fiberglass cloth over – they all eventually delaminate. The only thing that would work is to use epoxy, but to save money, many choose to use the cheap fiberglass resins instead. You’ll just be wasting your money. (I’ve owned several boats that have had glass over wood and they’ve all been a problem.
One runabout I ended up just cutting up and putting all the pieces in a dumpster.

3) Build a new door from scratch using fiberglass – because you wouldn’t be using any wood, you could build it using the cheaper fiberglass resins.

Since I do mostly repair work and alterations on my fiberglass trailer, I only purchase gallons of Epoxy. If I was to do a larger project using new materials and cloth, I would probably then use the cheaper fiberglass resin.

Epoxies work well for projects
1) Requiring more strength;
2) Working with dissimilar materials;
3) Needing to adhere well when the materials have any moisture in them
(never use fiberglass resins unless the project is completely dry)

You sound like you might be up for the challenge. You could learn how to do all this yourself.

First, I’d buy a book on working with fiberglass boats.

May be take a course with a local experimental college, community college.

Find a local fiberglass store (not a crafts store, but a boat fiberglass supply store)
And ask them about a course. –

Buy good face mask for –
One for grinding (don’t want to breathe the fiberglass dust)
One with filters for the fiberglass resins and/or epoxies
googles

- a light weight suit – the dust is extremely fine and “itchy!”
- a 4 ½ inch grinder from Harbor Freight ($15 on sale?) I used to pay up to $80 for the
The 4” Makita grinders - the On/Off switches were always plugging up – the
Harbor Freight grinder is a throwaway -
- A small vibrating palm sander with a foam pad and use the roll adhesive
I buy all my roll paper and sanding discs online now

You can do this.

But, you need some practice, a little more basic knowledge and the tools.

Your questions about building up fiberglass on something like glass and will it bend –

Yes and yes.

You can use any flat surface with a “release agent” or paste.

I’ve used what I’ve had if I don’t have any around – wax paper or petroleum jelly have both worked for me.

Working your door, you would find it would be part of the project to lay up the parts of the door on a flat surface first and affix them and shape them into the door.

Fiberglass is easy to work with, but a common mistake is to build up too thick a layer or mix too large a batch of resin.

You’ll find the heat build-up will waste time and material if you try and build up too much too fast – or, the pot life of your resin is diminished if it is hot when you’re working and/or you make too big a batch you can’t all use right away.

Doesn’t have to be glass to be laid up on to be able to work, though.


Enclosed, find pictures of a hole I just patched on my trailer after removing an access door –
(putting in a new exterior AC outlet next to where the access panel door used to be)


My vote would be to don’t waste any more money on trying to rebuild the door (why I had to answer your posting)

Get a good “Repairing a Fiberglass Boat” book – talk to a boat yard fiberglass supply shop about courses you could take – get the basic tools - safety stuff and stay safe with the power tools (just took off some skin on one of my fingers today with the grinder and 50 grit – does it really fast if you’re not careful

Good luck to you.
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Old 09-13-2013, 04:30 PM   #33
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Bill thank you for your post... you have given good information and I appreciate your advise.
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Old 09-13-2013, 06:47 PM   #34
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Door Update

Thanks to all who offered advice and ideas.

We are definitely going to make a new door, but we will take our time and make sure that it is done well.

DISCLAIMER:

The following is not intended to be a permanent door, it is an attempt to resurrect our old door. It needs to stay shut and keep out the water. We have the materials so there will be little expense, if any. Except time. We don't expect it to last, long term, but it should get us by for a year or so, giving us enough time to build a new door.

It is the final piece keeping us from camping, with the exception of the window latches.

Here is the plan, your input is welcome. I will attach pics. We are using materials that we already have.
I removed the wood bracing from the old door. The door will be sanded and the bottom of the door will be cut away above the rot. Then replace the cut away section with new wood of the same thickness.
Replace the old bracing with new wood braces, correcting the placement and extending them. Add horizontal bracing, to span the vertical supports. Metal plates attached through all layers will help the inner layer and the new bracing secure the replacement wood.

We traced the curve of the door way, side opening, onto plywood. Each side separately. The plywood will serve as a test piece and then when adjustments are made will be a pattern for the final braces.

The door has also delaminated around the door latch hole. Will inject as much of the separation as possible.with glue, and clamp to dry, then seal around the hole to keep any more moisture from entering. Reuse the old door latches.

Lay up the entire door inside and out with a layer of fiberglass adding support where the braces meet the door panel and additional layer to the lower wood section.

Put the door on the camper, smile and say, "it fits"! Go camping!
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Old 09-13-2013, 07:08 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cat futrell View Post
Byron, yes the shape of the Love Bug is like the Boler. That is a good suggestion. Thanks
Isn't a Scamp door like the Boler also? Scamp sells their doors out of their parts department.
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Old 09-13-2013, 07:56 PM   #36
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Name: Cathy
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Dave,

Scamp doors aren't shaped the same. It's the bow in the body. The Scamp sides are a little straighter than ours. Thank you. Keep on thinking!
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:31 AM   #37
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Name: Marty
Trailer: Wilderness 5th Wheel ,Amerigo trailer
Colorado
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scamp door repair

Scamp Door Repair and Mods - Fiberglass RV

will this help any?

Marty v.k.
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:39 AM   #38
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Name: Marty
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door repair

or this?Scamp 16' door and gravel shield renov - Fiberglass RV
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Old 09-29-2013, 11:03 AM   #39
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Name: Marty
Trailer: Wilderness 5th Wheel ,Amerigo trailer
Colorado
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door repair

I have an Amerigo trailer but NO door, so I have to go by pictures and some tutorials like these above. My door is also supposed to be curved. I wish I had a door even rotted to take measurements from.

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Old 09-29-2013, 11:15 AM   #40
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door repair

that sounded like im ragging on you to me. I am not. I am a more visual and tactile "I like it in front of me" person. hope these help you.

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Old 09-29-2013, 12:16 PM   #41
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Name: Cathy
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Marty,

Thank you for the links. I have several links and docs that I can send to you if you want. It did not sound like you're being critical at all. I do understand being tactile, I do lots of drawings for my DH. I am happy that I can visualize dimension in my mind. I think it comes from years and years of seamstress work.

I considered all sorts of options for door. We will build a new door but not now, unless my current plan fails. I am posting pics on my web album as we go.

Here is what we have done to establish the correct curve on the door. We place a piece of pattern material, plywood, or foamcore. We used thin plywood. We held the plywood up to the side of the door frame and traced the curve. We did this on the hinge side and on the latch side. Then had out each of those used as a pattern piece. We continue to hold the plywood up to the door frame inside and make corrections until the curve matched the doorframe. This is as far as we have gotten right now. We are doing a little bit every day and I will be posting to our web albums. The link is at the bottom of my post.
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:38 PM   #42
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Name: Marty
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door repair

your windows look like they push out at the bottom and have a latch to hold it out. If you have problems or need to repair them this link could help.

Window seals & hardware for 76 Scamp tilt out windows - Fiberglass RV

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