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Old 08-26-2013, 06:37 PM   #21
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Name: Cathy
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I am so happy that I found this forum last year. Thank you to all.. Dave, Im going to look into the fiber stranded plastic.

Oh, and Dave.. Did you say you wanted to get your hands on the project? We have a guest room..
We could trade a two week stay in FL for a Fiberglass door. lol

If you all thought I was stupid before, now I am going to open my mouth and you will know for sure..I hate to admit it, but I completely forgot that lots of boats are made of wood. I have been so put off by the rot and other problems in this wooden door, that my perspective has been skewed. Maybe wood could work for skin.

OK, took a little break.. thinking about the top of that door. The wood braces or ribbing must end about 2 inches from the top of the door. How would you continue the curve all the way to the top?

If anyone has a curved door, can you tell me if is flat or curves the top 4 inches of the door?
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:47 PM   #22
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Bob,

Here in Jacksonville we are on the St. John's River and there are a number of boat repair people. A big problem is catching them when they are between jobs. There is also a shop that does FG fabrication about 30 miles from the house. We have to take it there to get an estimate and we are still on blocks. DH is working on electrical now.. and I am finishing the passenger side window. So maybe we can take it over there in the next week or so and get a bid... I know that is is going to be expensive.

Remember, when I started this thread I was trying to figure out how to get by for now by making a repair myself, now I'm in much deeper looking to have a door made.

Any other ideas or suggestions are welcome.
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:33 PM   #23
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Keep us updated I am wondering if they will make the core from Balsa wood.
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:59 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Cat futrell View Post
I am so happy that I found this forum last year. Thank you to all.. Dave, Im going to look into the fiber stranded plastic.

Oh, and Dave.. Did you say you wanted to get your hands on the project? We have a guest room..
We could trade a two week stay in FL for a Fiberglass door. lol

If anyone has a curved door, can you tell me if is flat or curves the top 4 inches of the door?
We are in the Pacific Nwet. Long trip but thanks for the invite. The shop is here with all the needed tools. Based on what you have done so far, I think you can do it. FSP can be found at Home Depot and the like. They use it on commercial restroom walls for easy cleaning and durability.

I suspect that you want the curve to continue to the top for looks and so it tucks in the frame for a good seal. Not 100% on this since the Casita had a flat door.
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:53 PM   #25
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Looking at the pictures of a 13' Boler and your Love Bug the doors appear to be identical. Wonder if you could find a Boler door that somebody would like to get rid of. At least that would be a good starting point to modifying to fit.
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Old 08-26-2013, 10:56 PM   #26
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Byron, yes the shape of the Love Bug is like the Boler. That is a good suggestion. Thanks
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:39 PM   #27
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My good, ole friend Sandy is a member of Bolerama. You wouldn't believe the number of Boler owners that are looking for doors.... because their doors have been STOLEN right off the trailer (remember all us air-craft door owners have hinges that are exposed). Good luck finding a wreck, probably won't happen. You don't want to delay enjoyment waiting for a replacement. Look for a solution that works for you. It doesn't have to be perfect, just works for you....
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:07 PM   #28
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Donna,

You always help me with my perspective. Thank you. Haven't found a curved door at all, haven't even found a suitable window.

For those who may be following this thread for a good laugh, I have been thinking, again. MAybe I can just rebuild the top of the door incorperating some wooden ribs and still use the flashing at the bottom. If I can think my way through this I will post pics and updates.
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:17 PM   #29
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Cathy, I'm really going off the rails here... but instead of trying to build an air-craft door to fit the trailer, have you considered changing the shape of the door opening to fit a FLAT door.. AKA Play Mor II ? This is a crappy pic, but it's the best I have to offer: Fiberglass RV - Historian's Album: Play Mor II - Picture
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:03 PM   #30
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If you are back to wood check out this You Tube. Kind of like what I was trying to describe but you have to use your supports to define the bend.
Eddie
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:42 PM   #31
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Donna, I have considered a flat door but decided that I just don't want one. Good suggestion though.
Eddie, haven't had a chance to watch video...thank you for the link.
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Old 09-10-2013, 02:24 AM   #32
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Your door project

Was just looking at your door project.
You have a challenge.
Based on my experience, I wouldn’t put any more time or money into trying to fix the door. In my opinion, You’ll just be throwing money at it; a lot of time and frustration - work and rework and wind up with a heavy door that still won’t work right.
I’d just build a new door – one of 3 ways.
1) All new wood – stringers and thin bendable plywood;
2) New wood (same as above) and add fiberglass cloth for shaping and strengthening the edges and corners – using only Epoxy resin
Don’t try and go cheap and try to use fiberglass resin on wood. It won’t last and you’ll have
Eventual delamination before you know it. take a look at all the wood boats that people have laid fiberglass cloth over – they all eventually delaminate. The only thing that would work is to use epoxy, but to save money, many choose to use the cheap fiberglass resins instead. You’ll just be wasting your money. (I’ve owned several boats that have had glass over wood and they’ve all been a problem.
One runabout I ended up just cutting up and putting all the pieces in a dumpster.

3) Build a new door from scratch using fiberglass – because you wouldn’t be using any wood, you could build it using the cheaper fiberglass resins.

Since I do mostly repair work and alterations on my fiberglass trailer, I only purchase gallons of Epoxy. If I was to do a larger project using new materials and cloth, I would probably then use the cheaper fiberglass resin.

Epoxies work well for projects
1) Requiring more strength;
2) Working with dissimilar materials;
3) Needing to adhere well when the materials have any moisture in them
(never use fiberglass resins unless the project is completely dry)

You sound like you might be up for the challenge. You could learn how to do all this yourself.

First, I’d buy a book on working with fiberglass boats.

May be take a course with a local experimental college, community college.

Find a local fiberglass store (not a crafts store, but a boat fiberglass supply store)
And ask them about a course. –

Buy good face mask for –
One for grinding (don’t want to breathe the fiberglass dust)
One with filters for the fiberglass resins and/or epoxies
googles

- a light weight suit – the dust is extremely fine and “itchy!”
- a 4 ½ inch grinder from Harbor Freight ($15 on sale?) I used to pay up to $80 for the
The 4” Makita grinders - the On/Off switches were always plugging up – the
Harbor Freight grinder is a throwaway -
- A small vibrating palm sander with a foam pad and use the roll adhesive
I buy all my roll paper and sanding discs online now

You can do this.

But, you need some practice, a little more basic knowledge and the tools.

Your questions about building up fiberglass on something like glass and will it bend –

Yes and yes.

You can use any flat surface with a “release agent” or paste.

I’ve used what I’ve had if I don’t have any around – wax paper or petroleum jelly have both worked for me.

Working your door, you would find it would be part of the project to lay up the parts of the door on a flat surface first and affix them and shape them into the door.

Fiberglass is easy to work with, but a common mistake is to build up too thick a layer or mix too large a batch of resin.

You’ll find the heat build-up will waste time and material if you try and build up too much too fast – or, the pot life of your resin is diminished if it is hot when you’re working and/or you make too big a batch you can’t all use right away.

Doesn’t have to be glass to be laid up on to be able to work, though.


Enclosed, find pictures of a hole I just patched on my trailer after removing an access door –
(putting in a new exterior AC outlet next to where the access panel door used to be)


My vote would be to don’t waste any more money on trying to rebuild the door (why I had to answer your posting)

Get a good “Repairing a Fiberglass Boat” book – talk to a boat yard fiberglass supply shop about courses you could take – get the basic tools - safety stuff and stay safe with the power tools (just took off some skin on one of my fingers today with the grinder and 50 grit – does it really fast if you’re not careful

Good luck to you.
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Old 09-13-2013, 03:30 PM   #33
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Bill thank you for your post... you have given good information and I appreciate your advise.
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Old 09-13-2013, 05:47 PM   #34
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Door Update

Thanks to all who offered advice and ideas.

We are definitely going to make a new door, but we will take our time and make sure that it is done well.

DISCLAIMER:

The following is not intended to be a permanent door, it is an attempt to resurrect our old door. It needs to stay shut and keep out the water. We have the materials so there will be little expense, if any. Except time. We don't expect it to last, long term, but it should get us by for a year or so, giving us enough time to build a new door.

It is the final piece keeping us from camping, with the exception of the window latches.

Here is the plan, your input is welcome. I will attach pics. We are using materials that we already have.
I removed the wood bracing from the old door. The door will be sanded and the bottom of the door will be cut away above the rot. Then replace the cut away section with new wood of the same thickness.
Replace the old bracing with new wood braces, correcting the placement and extending them. Add horizontal bracing, to span the vertical supports. Metal plates attached through all layers will help the inner layer and the new bracing secure the replacement wood.

We traced the curve of the door way, side opening, onto plywood. Each side separately. The plywood will serve as a test piece and then when adjustments are made will be a pattern for the final braces.

The door has also delaminated around the door latch hole. Will inject as much of the separation as possible.with glue, and clamp to dry, then seal around the hole to keep any more moisture from entering. Reuse the old door latches.

Lay up the entire door inside and out with a layer of fiberglass adding support where the braces meet the door panel and additional layer to the lower wood section.

Put the door on the camper, smile and say, "it fits"! Go camping!
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Old 09-13-2013, 06:08 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Cat futrell View Post
Byron, yes the shape of the Love Bug is like the Boler. That is a good suggestion. Thanks
Isn't a Scamp door like the Boler also? Scamp sells their doors out of their parts department.
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Old 09-13-2013, 06:56 PM   #36
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Dave,

Scamp doors aren't shaped the same. It's the bow in the body. The Scamp sides are a little straighter than ours. Thank you. Keep on thinking!
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:31 AM   #37
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scamp door repair

Scamp Door Repair and Mods - Fiberglass RV

will this help any?

Marty v.k.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:39 AM   #38
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door repair

or this?Scamp 16' door and gravel shield renov - Fiberglass RV
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:03 AM   #39
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door repair

I have an Amerigo trailer but NO door, so I have to go by pictures and some tutorials like these above. My door is also supposed to be curved. I wish I had a door even rotted to take measurements from.

Marty V.K.
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:15 AM   #40
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door repair

that sounded like im ragging on you to me. I am not. I am a more visual and tactile "I like it in front of me" person. hope these help you.

Marty V.K.
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