Ok, ready to order a Solar panel but have a question

[deryk]

Ok, after going back and forth with the idea of it and talking with some friends I have decided to pick up a 100 watt panel(or maybe a 120) but have a question.

I'm not going to mount it to the roof because I tend to park under the tree's when I camp so going to use the 20' leash (power cord) to be able to move it into the sun...was thinking of adding a pair of stainless steel loops on the back so I could secure it so it couldn't just be walked away with so easily, but am looking for a charge controller that could be mounted outside(worse comes to worse I could mount it inside and run the connections to the outside through the closet next to my bathroom).

Does the charge controller put out heat? I was wondering if I could pick up some kind of water tight box to put it inside of...While in my driveway the panel will be bungy corded down to keep my batteries topped off...so what are my options? Thanks!

[Spanke]

Deryk,

You can buy a waterproof controller and mount it to the back of the panel.

Here's an example of one.

Amazon.com: Waterproof PWM LS1024RP Solar Panel Charge Controller Regulator 12/24V 10A: Home Improvement

Hope your project goes well!

Spanke

[John Linck]

My cheap Asian controller stays quite cool and my rooftop 100 watt panel makes plenty of juice. Some would argue that the panel's higher voltage would have less drop as opposed to the lower regulated voltage from a controller, an argument for putting the controller by the battery. In the real world it probably makes little difference, though my controller is next to the battery.

John

[deryk]

I did a google search and found this 20A Waterproof IP66 Solar Panel Charger Controller PWM Charge 12 24V LS2024RP US | eBay

I could mount it on my exterior battery box and be able to plug in the panel when needed and would be water proof.

[stev]

Check out the Grape Solar Fab 8,105 watt panel from Home depot.
Wait until HD has the $10 off coupon.
HD has a 90 day return. So you can try it out.
Free shipping. Total should be $130 + tax.

Controller should be as close as possible to Batt.
Check out the 10 amp Sunforce 60031 from Amazon.
Has a LCD display showing voltage. $31 shipped.

Calculate voltage drop between panel and controller, when sizing wire.

[David Tilston]

My son bought two 60 W solar kits at Costco for $170cdn. I had given him a 40 W kit for Christmas, so I bought that from him for $100. I bought my self a 40 W kit when I got his. So now we both have two matched pairs.

I plan to use a piano hinge and a couple of latches to make them into a fold up array. One will be 80 W, the other 120 W. The included controller is just big enough for two 60 W panels. Which means there is a spare controller. The 60 W kit comes with 8' of cable, a 400 W inverter, battery clamps, and a 12 V socket with battery clamps.

The 7 A solar controller is so small, you could mount one inside your battery box, between the + and - terminals.

[deryk]

Dave I looked on costco and not seeing it..wonder if its canadian only?

[mrprez]

Don't mount a controller in the same area as your batteries if they are flooded cells. The gas they put out does not mix well with sparky.


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[MCDenny]

You might want to consider one of the semi-flexible panels. The Renology one weighs 3 lbs as compared to 16 for their conventional glass panel. A lot easier to move around.

Renology charges an extra $50 for the semi-flexible one.

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by deryk

Dave I looked on costco and not seeing it..wonder if its canadian only?

I also went looking online and did not find it. Since it is a better deal then the stuff they have online, it may just be in my Costco only. They have more though.

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by mrprez

Don't mount a controller in the same area as your batteries if they are flooded cells. The gas they put out does not mix well with sparky.


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Good point. Might need to find a very small NEMA4 enclosure for it.

[deryk]

Yeah I'm going to go with a waterproof style controller... And mount it outside the battery box. Going to have to get some type of quick connect/disconect fittings for it so it can be easily hooked up.

I'm a little iffy about the flexible panels due to a link someone posted on another posting about a problem with them... and the extra expense. A 20lb panel is not a big deal for me to move around. I am thinking about renology's 100 watt foldable because of the built in stand for it.... but then need a 10gauge wire to run to the battery.

Too many choices lol

[mrprez]

Have you decided on your batteries yet? I'd make sure the controller can be set to the battery manufacturers recommended voltage setting for recharging and equalization. Not to mention variations in temperature. The controller should vary the charge voltage as the temp change.


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[John Linck]

Originally Posted by mrprez

Don't mount a controller in the same area as your batteries if they are flooded cells. The gas they put out does not mix well with sparky.

Gotta agree with John. Batteries should be outside or in a well sealed and vented enclosure if inside.

Better safe than sorry make sense here.

John

[J Mac]

I'm sure I saw, on this site, a system where by the solar panel was plugged into the trailer's pig tail but I can't find it to share. Can anyone else remember that thread?

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by deryk

Yeah I'm going to go with a waterproof style controller... And mount it outside the battery box. Going to have to get some type of quick connect/disconect fittings for it so it can be easily hooked up.

l

I am using a small cheap not waterproof controller that remains connected to the battery and its in a small waterproof box that has hinged top - mounted low on the outside of the battery box and painted black so its not to apparent thats it there. You could mount it right on the tongue frame with heavy duty 3M tape a bit further from the battery if that makes it feel safer.

Mine has been on for over 5 years now with no issues. As the controller is not water proof and I seem to recall that it was to be vented when in use I simple open up the bottom just enough to connect the panel using a quick connection and give it some air and still protect it from rain. I did drill out a small hole in it for the wire from the battery to fit through (on the bottom side so water wouldn't get into the box and drip down onto the controller from the top) so it is well protected when totally closed in the winter months. If I was to do it again I would get the waterproof controller but still put it inside a box to protect it from road grim etc especially when traveling in winter . I have a pretty simple solar set up but it has served me well and gotten me through lots of dry camping days.

[deryk]

Originally Posted by J Mac

I'm sure I saw, on this site, a system where by the solar panel was plugged into the trailer's pig tail but I can't find it to share. Can anyone else remember that thread?

I was wondering about that too....but I think since my battery box is on the tongue I'm going to go with a plug of some kind directly to the batteries to minimize loss.

[Huck]

Originally Posted by deryk

I was wondering about that too....but I think since my battery box is on the tongue I'm going to go with a plug of some kind directly to the batteries to minimize loss.

The way I did mine was to wire the charge controller with a 4' cable - bare cable end wired to controller and other end to 7 blade connector. Only need power and ground. Then plug the 7 blade connector into the trailer connector.

On the solar panel side of the charge controller, I connect positive and negative bare wire ends to charge controller. I use the MC4 connectors on the other end as the quick connect to the MC4 connectors on the solar panel cables.

I wire this to charge controller when I arrive at campground.


Make sure you post pictures if you wire directly to battery. I might just want to change mine!

[deryk]

The only reason I really think about wiring it directly to the batteries is when they moved my batteries to a box on the tongue,

A, I'm not sure what gauge wire they used

B, seems like it cold be an extra 20 some feet of wire that isn't necessary....unless I'm wrong and the charge cable runs into my new battery box and not all the way to the fuse box then back to the front where the batteries are. I guess tomorrow I have to take a peak under my parkliner. Would be great if I could just wire in one of those 7 pin sockets with just 2 being used.

[BradPosey]

Just finished installing my components. My panel was removed from our motor home when it was sold. I purchased panels and controller from "Northern Arizona Wind &Sun" in 1999. There still cranking out the watts. The panel is a 90 watt Siemons, the Controller is a Morningstar ProStar 30, 30 amp charge controller with digital meter. The panel is to large to mount on the roof so I'll be using it as a remote plug-in. Mounted the controller in the storage compartment at the right of the entrance door (under bunk). Attached battery to controller with #10 wire, fused the positive same as original. Installed a two pin marine bulkhead connector next to existing wire access hole for tail light harness. The bulkhead connector is connected to the controller with #12 wire. The panel is connected through the bulkhead connector. I used #12 wire for this, not as large as I would have liked, getting connector fitting that will handle larger wire is very $$$$$$$.$$.
My controller has a "load side" this enables me to read the draw on the system and also allows me to turn off the battery. To connect the load side, use the two wires that we're removed from the battery.
With this system I'll never need more unless I try to run AC for things like MicroWave of other appliances.