Old beat down rotten 13' Boler - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-19-2013, 10:04 PM   #1
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Name: Josh
Trailer: Boler 1300
Washington
Posts: 19
Old beat down rotten 13' Boler

Hey,

I introduced myself earlier, but I am moving most of my posts here as I will be tracking progress of my renovation. For those who care you can find my intro here. For those who do not: I have a boler 13', its gutted, the frame is in the process of being cleaned up.

Spent some time today going through the frame, and found some things that are giving me cause for concern. Pictures below show some of the severe pitting on the back end of the trailer and the hole I tapped through with a hammer (hey if it can't take me tapping on it, I don't want to tow it). The rust was scaled on many parts of the back end on the top of the 2x3 steel members. I was already aware that I would have to replace the cross members as they have rotted out, but now I am contemplating a few things:
  • sandblasting it, welding in angle iron to brace it
  • rebuilding everything
  • rebuilding just the cross members and 2x3 runners and reusing everything else (axle, a-frame, and rear bumper)

to be honest, the metal is pretty thin by the hole, I cut out a square area until I could get to some thicker metal and it looks better now... but still... blows my budget build.

Still assembling a list of ideas and items that I will need, that will be forthcoming.
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:40 PM   #2
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Name: Carl
Trailer: 2013 Lil Snoozy #161 (SOLD)/2010 Tacoma
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That frame looks like my first boat trailer.

Welcome to the Forum.
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Old 05-20-2013, 06:44 AM   #3
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Name: Byron
Trailer: 73 Boler
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Looks like you have the same plans and ideas I have. But I am skipping on water tanks and need the front bunk for my kid. You will blow the budget fast, I sure did.

Have fun.
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:36 PM   #4
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Name: Slavomir
Trailer: 1978 Boler
Washington
Posts: 266
Wow, that frame looks rough. I would not trust it to support a renovated egg...you may end up losing it somewhere on the road! If you plan to enjoy it for a long time, have a new frame built.

Hey, what year is your Boler?

Cheers,
Slav
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Old 05-20-2013, 05:56 PM   #5
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Name: Josh
Trailer: Boler 1300
Washington
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Yah, rough is putting it nicely... My friend will be over this afternoon with a verdict on salvage or rebuild.

As far as the year, 78 or 73. Can't remember, I do know it was built by neonex.
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:58 PM   #6
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I'll call that frame a template.
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:04 PM   #7
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Name: Slavomir
Trailer: 1978 Boler
Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Yeti View Post
Yah, rough is putting it nicely... My friend will be over this afternoon with a verdict on salvage or rebuild.

As far as the year, 78 or 73. Can't remember, I do know it was built by neonex.
Check your floor from the underneath unless the inside is gutted. If it is just one piece fiberglass (no wood glassed in), then you have a 78. If the floor has been glassed in to the body and has glassed in wood slats (which may be rotten, hence more work for you), you likely have a 73.
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:17 PM   #8
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Name: Josh
Trailer: Boler 1300
Washington
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Progress

As the trailer was broken down at my mom's I have not been able to spend as much time as I would like. My wife and I went down on Saturday and although we weren't feeling that well finished the demo on the inside.

The progress so far:

My wife removed the remaining interior pieces, drilled out all of the rivets and any screws still sticking through the body.

Many of the screws were rusted so bad none of the threads were there and they mostly tetanus syringes sticking out ready to poke you.

Sanded off any remaining insulation that was stuck to the wall, now it looks really really good.

The windows and vents are out. I will be reusing the windows and glassing in the vents. No fridge, heater or any other appliance requiring venting will be used in the trailer. I will be keeping the vent above the stove area.

I know many of you said the frame was shot, but my fabricator friend said it would be good to go. I trust him, and aside from the hole near the door (which will be fixed) the remaining frame is solid.

Moving forward:

I have decided to go with reflectix and headliner material. I will be painting the body using rust o leum and the roll and tip method as described by many people here. My budget of 1000 is looking more like 1500. (and reality that looks more like 2500)

I have included some pictures of the progress, comment away.
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Old 05-27-2013, 06:50 AM   #9
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Texas
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LOOKS GREAT TO ME. I thought $1K might be tight but am guessing your return factor would be 6X if done well. IMO.

Thanks for super pixs and narrative.
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:35 PM   #10
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Name: Jeremy
Trailer: Scamp
Washington
Posts: 49
Great job on the interior clean up! How/what did you use to clean it so well? I see you are from Washington, and noticed you have an upper cabinet. Do you plan to take that down? If so, any chance I could make a template of it? I plan to build front and rear upper cabinets, and that would save a lot of time, assuming boler and scamp upper cabinets are the same or close. Nice job so far!

Jeremy
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:07 AM   #11
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Name: Josh
Trailer: Boler 1300
Washington
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Hey Jeremy,

80 grit sandpaper, the kind that comes on the foam blocks from Home Depot, went through 2 of em. This mostly got the residual foam off and some of the glue. The rest of the glue was taken off using a wire wheel and drill (lightly).

I did save all of the wood. I will make some measurements and post them the next time I make it down there.
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Old 06-04-2013, 10:13 AM   #12
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Name: Josh
Trailer: Boler 1300
Washington
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I will be heading down to the trailer tomorrow to start on the fiberglass repair. The goal for tomorrow is to be ready to glass over the weekend. I did have a few questions that might benefit from the opinions and experience on this forum, some of them may have been answered already but I will shoot them out anyway:

1. Rivets vs. glassed in support. I would like to avoid future leaks by sealing the rivet holes and placing wooden glassed in support in the same locations, thoughts?

2. The belly band (aluminum trim) has lost whatever sealant it had And is filthy underneath. I plan on removing it cleaning everything and reusing it. Alternatively I could grind down the lip and glass over it, thoughts?

3. when it comes to sanding the exterior I was contemplating using my oscillating sander for the really rough areas, too much?

Thank you your replies in advance, I apologize for any typos sent from my phone.
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Old 06-04-2013, 10:29 AM   #13
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Name: Derek
Trailer: 1973 boler 13', Earlton On
Ontario
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My suspicion with the belly band is that it helps maintain the shape of the shell. It gives you rigidity that wouldn't be there otherwise.

When I did my "body work" on my Boler, a 1/4 sheet sander was as aggresssive enough. Simply pick the grit level needed for the job you have to do.
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Old 06-04-2013, 10:52 AM   #14
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Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Yeti View Post
1. Rivets vs. glassed in support. I would like to avoid future leaks by sealing the rivet holes and placing wooden glassed in support in the same locations, thoughts?

2. The belly band (aluminum trim) has lost whatever sealant it had And is filthy underneath. I plan on removing it cleaning everything and reusing it. Alternatively I could grind down the lip and glass over it, thoughts?
Josh a lot of people if at the stage you are at go with glassing in wood supports to secure the cabinets vs re riveting them in. Less rivets is always better in the long run.

Have seen some folks grind down the belly band and reglass. A lot of work that I am not sure returns the same in benefits. May want to touch up and reseal it before putting the band back on it though.
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