Oliver #70 with a couple minor mods - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-22-2015, 03:22 PM   #1
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Oliver #70 with a couple minor mods

Not sure this is the best thread to post some interior photos of our new Oliver we picked up on Mar 3rd but at least there is a minor mod or two and few others as works in progress. While most everyone here has seen photos of the Oliver interiors thought it would be fun to post a few or ours.

Anyway thanks for looking and hope you enjoy.

Rob

We opted out of including the microwave and instead went for the area to be used as storage which Oliver includes a door that can be seen on their website. We didn't feel this particular door lent itself to the rest of our cabin and thus the change.

Just above this door is a first iteration of a proposed change for upper storage cabinets doors. We knew from the beginning this many mirrors while opening up the interior and making it feel brighter, just wasn't right for us. So for now this is a work in progress. Feel free to comment or criticize.
Attached Thumbnails
Oliver cabinet door.jpg   _NDF0524.jpg  

_NDF0525.jpg   _NDF0527.jpg  

_NDF0529.jpg  
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Old 04-22-2015, 03:25 PM   #2
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Interesting! So you deleted the microwave and got a cabinet instead. What is the finish on that cabinet door? Looks like it matches the countertop nicely.

Love the dark upholstery.

Why did you omit the mirror on that one cabinet above?
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Old 04-22-2015, 03:25 PM   #3
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While I'm at it might as well go ahead and include the rest of the interior shots.

Thanks
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_NDF0533.jpg   _NDF0534.jpg  

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Old 04-22-2015, 03:32 PM   #4
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Without a MW effectively you just have an empty cabinet, with electric plug. Oliver by default installs the door that can be seen on their website, sort of a dark brown stained pine affair. Effectively it just didn't look right with what else we had done. But to answer your question, the door I built is 3/4" maple plywood, with a 1/4" cork wall tile laminated to the front face, with 3/8th inch pecan/hickory trim that is stained a warm gray to match our flooring that is referred to as weathered wood or something like that. But yes it does blend in nicely with countertops and makes a decent transition.

Thanks on the upholstery. We were the first to request piping to be a different color than the main fabric, so its heather gray and grape.

As for the upper cabinet door, Robert sent me a "seconds" mirrored door to work on over the winter. This one is pecan/hickory veneer laminated directly onto the that mirrored door after sanding it down to give some adhesion texture. Does this answer that question, not sure it does.

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Originally Posted by Ron Merritt View Post
Interesting! So you deleted the microwave and got a cabinet instead. What is the finish on that cabinet door? Looks like it matches the countertop nicely.

Love the dark upholstery.

Whe did you omit the mirror on that one cabinet above?
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Old 04-22-2015, 04:18 PM   #5
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Rob,
Ron mentioned issues with the stock location of the 120v outlets on his thread, do you have any issues?
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Old 04-22-2015, 05:02 PM   #6
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Thanks. Mainly I was wondering why you wanted that one upper door different than the rest.
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Old 04-22-2015, 05:05 PM   #7
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Ah ha, now I understand your question better. All of the doors will be changed eventually, this first one was only a first iteration prototype. Just haven't gotten to the rest of them yet. Sorry I was not more clear in the first post.

rob

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Thanks. Mainly I was wondering why you wanted that one upper door different than the rest.
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Old 04-22-2015, 05:32 PM   #8
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Rob all I can say is wow. The Oliver is definitely worthy of the name elite!
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Old 04-22-2015, 05:41 PM   #9
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Not many. While I agree the outlets above the cooktop are not placed in an ideal location its not been much of a nuisance for us. But I think I understand why they either had to, or chose to put them where they did. Perhaps a better placement would have been on the side of the cooktop cabinet at the foot of the bed on the left. But not sure there would have been enough clearance there for code either.

My biggest complaint and like Ron have myself to blame for this as much or more than Oliver was the placement of the reading lamp option. Where they are located by default makes them literally useless. If setting at the side dinette and you turn one of them on, either side, effectively it lights up the back of your head beautifully while casting a shadow on what you're reading on the table. The only way they can be utilized is to turn sideways, lift your reading material to shoulder height and turn the light accordingly. Otherwise they are nice lights. Moving them toward the center about a foot on both sides would be just about right. I mention this for anyone contemplating the reading light option, by all means go for it just have them installed more inward from the corners.

Other than that the only item that could have been thought out better is the rear bumper dump outlet situation. I'm a small guy with not so large hands and even I find it very tight and restrictive in this small vertical space. Otherwise its a great idea having it all enclosed and protected. But by the time I installed a clear extension one could barely get the hoses properly attached. Another inch of vertical clearance would make a huge difference here.

To address some of Ron's other concerns or comments and this is not to disagree with him whatsoever, but we did not find our leveling device at the tongue to be off, comparing it with a 2 ft carpenters level placed in several areas around the camper from the floor to counter tops. My guess is its off just a hair but not much. I suspect there are differences from model to model.

Black water drains quite fast, but agree with Ron one needs to use the rinse out connection every time, not every few times. Gray water drains slower for some odd reason but can be hurried by raising the tongue a couple of inches off level. With camper at level fresh water drain leaves 13% in the tank, so I had to raise the tongue substantially to completely drain.

By the way I should add one problem we encountered were two brass fittings that go inside the inlets, one is the black water tank flush, the other is the winterizing inlet at the right rear or curb side of the trailer. This fitting requires a half inch hex head or allen head wrench to completely install so that the inlet isn't leaking profusely and it did with the black water flush. Not being able to find a allen head wrench this size locally I devised a shade tree mechanics version which I will upload photos of. Basically its a 2" long bolt, with 1/2 head, with two additional 1/2" nuts jammed together on the threaded end. Once this is assembled its only a matter of sticking the bolt head into the socket to tighten with wrench or socket driver.

The point being for anyone else with this issue don't run out a spend half a day looking for a very expensive part this works just fine. If you can screw in a light bulb this is only half a notch more difficult.

Photos below, first the unseated brass part, then the homemade tool, then inserted to tighten.



Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Rob,
Ron mentioned issues with the stock location of the 120v outlets on his thread, do you have any issues?
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Old 04-22-2015, 05:46 PM   #10
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Thank you Sid, much appreciated.

While our month long trip after pickup was the trip from hell weather wise we surely enjoyed having it. This was a monumental step for us coming from a T@b (8 years) and pop up tent trailer before that. It more than exceeded our expectations, particularly the solar package and battery pack. We found it to be very comfortable and accommodating.

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Rob all I can say is wow. The Oliver is definitely worthy of the name elite!
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Old 04-22-2015, 06:37 PM   #11
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Great innovation on that wrench, Rob....
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Old 04-23-2015, 12:00 AM   #12
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Regarding the tank drain, it is a pain to make sure you have the hose connected correctly. Why does not a extension work? I would think that would be the solution.
I could not get the gray tank to empty past 19%, not sure if it emptied any at all. Only 3 nights worth. The handle sure does not pull out as far as the black tank. Is there a problem there?
We had the bubble level reentered on pickup at the factory, but found on this trip it did not seem right. I used a short level on the flat area in front of the LP tanks, but when we could not get the back burner to light, we checked the level at the stove, yep it was off. Now we check it there or at the MV counter. I suppose we could recenter the bubble, but we will just use the short level.

Stan
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Old 04-23-2015, 08:43 AM   #13
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Great idea on using the bolt & nuts to make a tightening tool! As you can see in my video, that black tank flush fitting came off in my hand - that's a QA issue they need to address it seems.

I use the reading lights for mostly low level lighting at night. With the flexible stalk, you can adjust them around fat heads like mine.

I find the sewer connection OK, but it is a tight fit. Definitely takes two hands to do it.

The valves need some help. I found them very tight on the first few pulls. I went inside under the cabinets and gave them a bit of help to make sure the were moving fully. The difference in how they work is largely due to the length of their cables - the black is much longer. After a few pulls, though, I've found they work fine.


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Old 04-23-2015, 09:08 AM   #14
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Stan, a couple thoughts here.

First we bought a clear 5" extension so there was no doubt in our mind whether or not the tanks were flushing and running clear especially the black tank. So I would recommend you doing the same. Normally most folks get one that has a 45 elbow but no way will this work in that small space, you have to find a straight one but this puts the end connection very close to the back lip (as it points downward) of the bumper assembly. I will try and get a quick and dirty photo today to illustrate if it quits raining. For reasons not known to me and have to say it makes no sense a 45 black elbow is at the rear of the drain pipe as you know. Had this black drain pipe been straight at the termination attaching a 5" connector would have been much easier. I will say this, the drain hose that Oliver supplies is much easier to attach, but its nowhere near the caliber of the Camco Rhino hose assembly which reduces clearance even further and making the insertion of clear extension more difficult.

The other thing I discovered was the gray tank will drain significantly faster, easier if the back flow prevention valve in the bathroom is pulled outward as though you were in camp. Makes a world of difference.

Sorry to hear about your leveling issues. At no time did we ever experience issues with either the fridge or the cooktop not working properly.

Hope this helps.
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