Our 1971 13' Boler mods - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 03-26-2017, 10:53 AM   #101
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Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
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Finally got a full day to work on the Boler yesterday. Started off the morning with a trip to Lowes to pickup some supplies and plumbing items. Since we are changing from the utility tub shower stall to a wetbath I had to change the PVC drain to accommodate a regular shower drain. I also added a p trap for it and also tied in the sink addition. Here are some photo to show the whole drain system and the individual components.

The first picture shows the overall gray water drain system. There is no black water drain as we use a porta pottie toilet that has its own black tank built it. We may add a flush toilet/black tank later on down the road.

The shower drain with the p trap sits about 2-3" lower than the one that connected to the utility tub (which didn't have the p trap) as the bottom piece of the shower drain will be flush with the bottom of the subfloor, the hole in the shower cut for the inside drain to screw down into the bottom half and it has two gaskets to seal it. Next I added a t-connector that is treaded in the middle to accept the treaded barbed fitting for the drain hose from the sink which has it own p trap. Next I added a ball valve with threaded fitting on one end to accept a standard garden hose. The short hose has female connection on both ends and is sold for hose reels. I am adding a double male to one end so it can connect to my Camco sewer adapter. This adapter is made to fit standard rv sewer connection but will also fit in our portable gray tank as shown. We do not have an on board gray tank, this one goes with us when we know we won't have sewer hookup and can leave it at home when we do.

The valve replace a garden hose valve spigot that we had used before but the system drained really slow and I figured out it was the garden hose valve as its opening was extremely small, this pvc ball valve opens as much as the diameter of the pvc line and drains much faster.

I will post more of yesterday's progress in the next post..
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Old 03-26-2017, 11:14 AM   #102
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When I got back from Lowes I started back on finishing up the upper cabinets. I had to finish building the cabinet that goes over the curbside window and the face frame for the rear overhead cabinet. These are constructed with wood dowels as are the street side overhead cabinets. I am finally getting the hang of the dowel joinery, I will talk more about this and the tools I used in the next post.

After I got those made I decided I needed to work on the mini kichenette cabinet that replaced the closet. It houses our refrigerator and toaster oven with storage above and below. Decided to make the lower portion to hold 2 liters and wine bottles (wife is happy ) and it will also hold our Colman lanterns and propane bottles too. It will hold about (4) 2 liters or about (6) bottles of wine. I plan on making some inserts so they don't move around in tow along with a removable wood bar mid ways up to hold them in place.

One of the things I had to fix on this cabinet was that the refrigerator was not sitting plumb which caused the door to hit on the face frame. Being that nothing on the Boler was plumb true or square making the interior build to be plumb true and square has proven to be a real challenge. Another problem was the leveling foot on the bottom hinge is directly under the door, so I decided to re-cut the shelf so it and the door are in front of the face frame. I also used a square to get the shelf at a 90 degree angle to the cabinet sides rather than rely on a level, this worked much better. The upper shelf in the cabinet helps hide the wires from the porch light.

I have one peice of the new face frame cut shown sitting in place on top of the refrigerator. This along with the sides of the face frame and a trim piece below the refrigerator right in front of the foot on the hinge should solve the problem of the unit trying to slide around. I also will put blocks behind the leveling feet to keep it from sliding backwards and give the necessary clearance behind the unit.

The 6th & 7th photo is the threshold for the wetbath. I needed a 4 inch rise on the upper floor beside the toilet so the shower curtain could protect from any water getting outside of the wetbath. The rise continues across as the floor drops to the shower bottom in the middle. Since the shower curtain will be one length it has to be the same height all the way across, which means you have to step over it but it is lower than the utility tub was before.

And the last one is one of 3 door frames for the remaining cabinets. Today I will work on finishing the face frame of the refrigerator cabinet and the cabinet doors, installing the shower threshold and maybe some lower trim. Then it is on to fiberglassing in the wetbath.
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Old 03-26-2017, 12:07 PM   #103
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With regards to the cabinets here are a few of the tools that has made life easier. These few relatively inexpensive specialty tools combined with some common tools (drill, circular saw or jig saw, and a dremel) have allowed me to get near professional quality results for minimal expense for anyone interested in building custom cabinets for your trailer or even your house.

The self centering dowel hole jig keeps your holes straight and centered on the wood piece as it has scribe marks to line up to your center mark on the wood piece, got it at Harbor Freight for $14.99 plus had a coupon for 20% off. I added the two long hex head screws you see in carefully drilled and tapped threads I added into the aluminum. The purpose of these screws is to adjust the jig so the aluminum clamps stays straight and true to the machined drill block. This is really not needed if you use the dowel pins shown in the third photo. Without the dowel pins, if you drill holes with the jig and the aluminum is crooked it will offset the holes in your two pieces of wood and they won't line up right.

The dowel pins ($6.59 at Ace Hardware) eliminate this as you drill the first piece of wood with the jig, then insert the pins in the drill holes, line up the two pieces of wood and carefully tap them together with a mallet. The pins mark the hole position exactly for the matching wood pieces. I used a shelf pin type drill bit as it ensures a more accurate placement of the drill bit in the punch mark made by the dowel pins and keeps the bit from walking. A drill press helps but is not necessary.

The last item is the Dremel bit set I got at Lowe's for $30.98. This turns your Dremel into a router. It works well. I used it to cut the notches in the wood trim piece above the refrigerator for the hinge covers to inset into the wood trim for a good tight fit. I also used it to cut the groves in the inside of the cabinet door frames to allow the plywood panel to set inside the grooves.

I took a piece of scrap wood and drilled a hole in it large enough for the Dremel to fit into. Then I cut a piece of plexiglass and drilled a hole into it so it would fit between the Dremel body and the cap when screwed on. I added some threaded bolts and nuts with matching holes drilled into both the plexiglass and wood to allow me to control the depth of the router bit above the wood table. I also made a small fence with a scrap 1x2 clamped to the wood table surface. I then can clamp this to any work surface and use it as a router table. A heck of a lot less expensive than a new router, bits and a router table.

The last picture is a home made scribing tool I made using a ball bearing roller which I attached to a scrap 1x2. This bearing came off of a printing press and it is the perfect width to roll along the contours of the Boler shell while I use a pencil to scribe the contour on to a piece of wood. I made a center mark on the 1x2 for where the pencil has to stay and you have to keep the tool 90 degrees to the shell either horizontal or vertical while you mark you wood piece. It works great and I used it to mark the contour on the rear upper cabinet face frame so it would fit perfectly to the rise in the roof line. I am proud of this one but just wish I had thought of it a lot sooner.
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Old 03-26-2017, 01:54 PM   #104
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Originally Posted by itlives View Post
Johnny, I just read this thread. Good work! (And lots of it!)
I'm in the middle of refurbing an 85 UHaul 13'r. As with you, mine turned into more work than I initially wanted - but less than yours- but I'm having fun!

Could you show what you're talking about with those tabs?
I think they would be what I want for my ceiling.
Thanks - Mike
Mike, sorry I forgot to post those pictures for you. Here they are. The tabs are in the left and right corners of the top of our kitchentte cabinet which replaced the stock closet. You can see there is some carpet partially covering them up. I cut them out of plywood with a jig saw to match the curve of the inner shell and used PL construction adhesive or a 2 part epoxy for wood/fiberglass to bond them. After that cured I then cut pieces of fiberglass matte and used polyester resin to glass the tabs to the shell. The strips of glass starts on the shell and wraps around the tabs full encasing it to the shell. It is very strong. After this was finished I removed any jagged edges of glass and lightly sanded smooth. Then I installed the cabinet fixture in place and pre-drilled holes from inside the cabinet through the tab and into the cabinet, and then secured the cabinet with screws. This way you don't see any screws from the outside and the carpet covers them up from the inside (still got to go back and finish hiding that part). Tabs don't have to be curved either unless the surface area requires it. I have some long straight tabs glass to the shell that the side bunk secures to. Some folks make small tab blocks, but I thought it would be stronger to make them longer and more aesthetically pleasing once covering in the carpet. Hope this helps, again sorry for the delay.
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Old 04-21-2017, 02:48 AM   #105
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Finally finishing up the wetbath
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Old 04-21-2017, 02:50 AM   #106
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Old 04-21-2017, 02:53 AM   #107
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Old 04-21-2017, 02:55 AM   #108
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Old 04-21-2017, 12:00 PM   #109
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Thanks for the detailed explanation. Good job!
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:31 PM   #110
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Thanks itlives still got more work to do
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:41 PM   #111
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We took it to Fort Pickens near Pensacola Fl and the shower did pretty good but the draining is an issue and I may need to add a pump. The road to ptrap clearance on the shower drain is not much and a speed bump broke off the pvc v shaped p trap so I had to replace it while there along with the shower drain - glad I brought my tools along. Gonna post another thread regarding this. Otherwise this was a great trip, excellent campground and beautiful aqua green water and white sand beach.
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Old 04-26-2017, 02:10 AM   #112
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Hey John, I didn't go back through the posts but a 3" lift may take care of the plumbing clearance issue . I added a lift, not for plumbing but for where we camp. On a side note, I haven't heard of anyone having a difference/problem with towing/handling after a lift install......other than maybe the step is a bit off normal .
BTW, your mods look great.
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Old 04-26-2017, 06:57 AM   #113
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Thank you Dave! My bondo/finishing work in the shower is not great as you can see all the imperfections but I couldn't spend anymore time on it at the moment as we had reservations for this past weekend in Fort Pickens. We left a day late as I was still doing last minute things getting it ready from restoration mode to camping mode but work allowed us to stay an extra day to makeup for the delay leaving. I may go back at some point and try finishing out a few places a little better. But it (the bondo and marine paint) servers its purpose of waterproofing the wetbath.

The wetbath works much better than the utility tub we had for the shower stall and now we only had to deal with the shower curtain in front of the door. I did temporarily wrap it to the side to cover the openings behind the toilet until I can get a door with a seal made for those. We also decided a curtain over the front window is not practical. I don't want to loose the authentic look of the outside of the Boler, so we are toying with painting the plexiglass window.

I have considered the lift from Dexter for my #9, but didn't know about it until after I put the axle on. But since it is bolted on I can easily fix that now. It would solve the problem also of give the height I need to better drain into our gray tank on wheels. The top of the tank is about the same height as the bottom of the shower so the hose to it cause the water to resist going up hill. One thing I am curious about is the clearance under the shower on Casitas & Scamps with a front bath layout and also what kind of shower drain they use. Maybe some kind of low profile? The shower drain from Lowes was about 6" down before the elbow/p-trap but I did find one at ACE hardware that was about an inch shorter. I modified the bushing that fitted into it which the p trap went into by cutting off about an inch with a hack saw that gave me another inch of clearance. But to be safe I took off the drain pipe on the way home until I can give it a second look over.

One other problem I had was if we used the sink and ran too much water it would bubble up in the shower. The sink acts as a vent for the shower drain as is it about 3' higher but there isn't a vent for the sink other than the shower and with it being lower the path of least resistance kicked in. I thought about trying to find a one way rubber insert for the drain under the shower that wouldn't allow water to go backwards. I got one with my seaflo water pump, looks like a washer with a cone on it which opens to allow water to go one way but not the other. Don't know if they make them that big though. That leads me to wonder if a pump will help and where to put it (after the sink & shower or in between). Seems like one drain or the other would introduce air which would affect the priming of the pump and possibly cause it to not drain properly. Can you tell I am no plumber???

I am also considering changing my brass barbed water connections to shark bite, read lots of good things about those, but hate to waste brass ones but don't want to risk a leak with all the work we have done.

On another note the cabinets worked great (need to get some pictures of them posted now that they are finished). But I am thinking about lowering the framework for our bed and our son's side bunk so I don't hit my head. Didn't think that one though. About 3 or 4 inches should do it and I have room to do it I believe. May do that this week. I also was putting our new mattress in right before we left and wasn't thinking about the door clearance and hit my head on the door in a rush. I really knocked the crap out of it and it jarred me all the way down my neck and into my shoulders. Got to get a pool noodle or something for that, I could see someone hitting that hard enough in a rush that it could cause some damage. I hit it before but not that hard.

Now we need a weekend to camp at home in the driveway so we can get more organized and see what works best for storage placement. We have too much of some stuff like lights, I know we have at least 5 stands of camp string lights the Mrs has acquired .

Scored a new to me tongue box too from my neighbor last week. Got it mounted before we left and that added to our storage ability. Now I have a place for the batteries, tools, etc. Added a propane mount to the side of it and had to re-position the tankless water heater but it worked perfect and was free (well a case of beer as payment ).
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Old 04-26-2017, 02:28 PM   #114
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[QUOTE=Johnny M


On another note the cabinets worked great (need to get some pictures of them posted now that they are finished). But I am thinking about lowering the framework for our bed and our son's side bunk so I don't hit my head. Didn't think that one though. [/QUOTE]

John, you might want to replace plumbing with a Hepvo trap, it's a lot shorter. I replaced my rubber p trap under the shower with that for the extra clearance and not having to worry about the rubber one crack/check again. BTW, the drain bucket is the same as used in a house. Your sink drain may be over powering the diameter of the shower drain. There were some pretty good posts recently on TT plumbing, shark bite fittings didn't fair well. Think I'd leave what you've got and keep an eye on them for any leaks as you may be fine.
Looking forward to the pics. I've been a woodworker for 50+ years and sometimes it looks real good on paper.............
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Old 04-27-2017, 09:11 AM   #115
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Dave I posted another thread about the drain to road clearance and some pictures of alternate drains I found online here:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ers-79429.html

I think I will take your advice on the hepvo valve which I think is the perfect solution to stop the water from the sink from backing up into the shower pan. Thanks for the tip!
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Old 04-28-2017, 09:40 PM   #116
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Here are some pictures of the finished product for the interior cabinets and the wetbath I have been promising.

The first one is the vertical kitchenette cabinet which replaced the closet. I custom built this for added roof support and to hold the refrigerator and a toaster oven (not pictured) on the shelf above but we are thinking about leaving it out and using that shelf for storage as well as the one above. Below the fridge holds 2 liters & wine bottles. All the cabinets are fastened to each other and as such adds rigidity and support for the roof all the way around. The cabinet to the right was intended as a pantry for food. The 2 over the rear window is for miscellaneous items. The shelf of this one is supported by an aluminum channel epoxied around the shell and a wood lip inside the face frame for the front side. The 3 continuous cabinets on the driver side are for our clothes. Both side cabinets were custom made with a wooded lip to support the plywood shelving. All the face frames were made using dowel joinery. Same for the doors but I also routed a groove for the plywood panels to fit into. The knobs were hand painted by my wife Melissa. The cabinetry was treated with Minwax prestain treatment then with 3 coats of Polyshades Bombay Mahogany Gloss a 2 in 1 stain/polyurethane. I am by no means a carpenter much less a cabinet maker so this was my first completed set of cabinets and while the woodwork details are not intricate I am very happy with how they turned out.

The wetbath was very thought out, planned, built, tested then re-thought out, planned and modified. From what started out as a utility tub shower and porta pottie toilet is now a full wetbath with sink, shower and toilet (porta pottie). The sink faucet pulls out to double as a shower head on a flexible hose. Showering in this over the past weekend was much more pleasant that using the utility tub with a shower curtain wrapped around you. Surprisingly our neighbor in Fort Pickens showed us their new stickie which I was surprised to see their shower pan was no bigger than ours! We may add a marine toilet down the road. The storage compartments behind the toilet was one of the last design changes which worked out nicely. I still have to make the door to cover them but for now a shower curtain works. I built the wetbath primarily out of 3/4" plywood with the walls adding more roof support. I feel confident now that the roof could support the roof top a/c we removed and I may add it back at some point. I covered all the woodwork with matte (in the shower pan) and cloth on the walls and polyester resin (Bondo brand) overlapping all the seams to ensure no water penetration. Bondo fiberglass is waterproof when cured. On top of that I added a layer of Bondo filler after sanding the glass with 80 grit. Bondo filler when cured only absorbs 0.3% water and with an enamel top coat it is water proof. So with the Rustoleum Marine Topside Paint, the Bondo filler and the fiberglass matte/cloth resin I have 3 layers of waterproofing protection for the wood and the metal frame. There are some imperfections in my Bondo work due to lack of time to sand out smooth before our last trip so I am going to sand those areas down smoother at some point and add a couple of extra coats of Topside paint. Overall though I am very happy with how this turned out, and while mine is custom built by me, I must give credit to Dan at Dan's GMC Pages for his wetbath conversion which was my inspiration for ours.

Now other than some minor trim work below the beds I am shifting gears to the exterior as I prep it for paint. I will try to get some photos of the new to me tongue box my neighbor gave me and the new propane tank mount as well as the new location of the tankless water heater.
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Old 04-29-2017, 12:44 AM   #117
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Thanks for the pics John, your cabinet work look very good....and you say you're not a carpenter . From looking at the shower pic, it looks like the tub/pan is a lot deeper than my SDs from the door sill. Might be just the old "optical conclusion" from the pic though.
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Old 04-29-2017, 06:08 AM   #118
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Thanks for the pics John, your cabinet work look very good....and you say you're not a carpenter . From looking at the shower pic, it looks like the tub/pan is a lot deeper than my SDs from the door sill. Might be just the old "optical conclusion" from the pic though.
It probably is Dave as I build my shower pan in place over the plywood subfloor as opposed to a drop in one like Scamp uses. I wanted as much head room as possible as I am 5'9" and it worked out well. I would have used the Scamp shower pan but they don't offer one with the toilet on the curb side. Thanks for the kind words Dave, but yes not a carpenter by trade but I am learning...with some wasted wood left over lol.
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Old 05-06-2017, 07:08 PM   #119
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Well I got the Hepvo valve today, that was quick. Had to work most of the day so I didnt get to install it but will head to Home Depot in the morning to get the drain I need. Also got and surprised my wife with a new vanity mirror for the bath. It folds flat to the wall and extends out not bad for $13 including shipping. Also picked up a TV mount from Macro Center the other day on sale for $19.99. Since I had to work until late I decided to tackle the door as I prep for paint. The door I rebuilt with the conduit frame wasnt a perfect fit to the body in 2 spots so I carefully cut the fiberglass under the conduit frame and inserted a couple of shims which worked very well. Then before I glassed that back down I decided to fix the problem of the door being about 2" too short at the top with it flush at the bottom. I sanded the top down to bare fiberglass and put some wax paper behind the door with it in place then glassed in two layers of matte and let cure. Tomorrow I will add 2 layers to the other side then fill it in with bondo and trim it out so I only have about a 1/8" gap.Click image for larger version

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Old 05-06-2017, 07:18 PM   #120
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