Our 1971 13' Boler mods - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-13-2016, 11:42 PM   #71
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more pictures

Here are the rest of the pictures it only let me upload 10 with the last post....
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Old 03-14-2016, 11:54 PM   #72
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John, did you have to remove the foam insulation you added to the walls?
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Old 03-15-2016, 07:41 AM   #73
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Yes I did have to remove some to rebuild the beds. Some is still intact around the windows, in the bath and on the ceiling. Also, some came loose from the wall in places as the glue we used ate the Styrofoam in places if the thin plastic covering had a hole or tear. Found out we needed to use a water based version of the same glue to prevent this. I am on the fence about whether to go back with it or go with the air bubble type. The Styrofoam would be better at keeping sound down and has better insulating properties. I also had an idea I might try, which is to cut the headliner to fit and then the insulation to it and pre-glue it to the insulation while it is our of the trailer and flat then glue the sandwiched piece to the wall.
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Old 03-16-2016, 12:07 AM   #74
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I agree, I bet the styrofoam is better at insulation and sound control. When you're finished you can probably write a book about what to do and what not to do when refurbing!
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Old 03-16-2016, 12:33 AM   #75
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Styrofoam verses blow in foam insulation

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Originally Posted by Ellpea in CA View Post
I agree, I bet the styrofoam is better at insulation and sound control. When you're finished you can probably write a book about what to do and what not to do when refurbing!
:
John I once owned a FG Canopy that sat up above my truck roof which I turned into a quick place to sleep, I cooked on the tailgate of the truck but to try and keep the inside of the Canopy warm in 20*F I bought the two cans of liquid blown in Foam and put on the painting outfit as U never want to get this stuff on you, your clothing etc. especially your hair. I practised a bit on a board to get my depth and away I went making it about 2" thick throughout, one thing I noticed putting this one was it creates heat but worked well, to help cool off in summer I installed a 3spd forward/reverse fan in the corner open front window and put fan on reverse and stayed warm at night and cool in daytime. One has to really practise as it is a dirty job then had to cut a bit out to get my bed into place but I made it removable 4'X74" bed worked well.
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Old 03-19-2016, 07:20 PM   #76
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Got the bed finished up except for trim work and cabinet doors below on Friday so we left for Riverbend Campgrond near Helen and Hiawassee. I thought I would post some pics of how much larger our bed is now vs before.... We gained almost a foot in width. Only we had no hot water on this trip as the water heater leaked..,.apparently I didn't get all the water out of it back in the fall even though I disconnected both in and out lines and let it drain...oh well live and learn. Weather is beautiful but a little chilly....
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Old 04-08-2016, 08:53 PM   #77
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Working this weekend on finishing the bathroom, cabinets over our bed, insulation throughout and the headliner wall covering...hope I get it all done. Anyway here are some pictures of the progress with more to come over the weekend. Thank you to Borrego Dave too for some suggestions on the toilet cover/mod too in another thread...

I wanted a wet bath look even though it is not an actual wet bath so I am using plastic utility paneling from Home Depot for 19.95 for a 4x8 sheet. It also is to help protect any wood from any water not contained by the shower curtain and to improve the look aesthetically around the porta pottie and also conceals the water line connections for the shower, faucet and hot water heater. Also, the cover had to allow access to the toilet for servicing so I had to make a horseshoe removable top around it to allow access and removal of the black tank. I made a wood panel this past week before the toilet cover that was to conceal the water connections but now I am thinking I may remove it and put 2 small shelves for things like shampoo, conditioner, soap, etc. etc. in its place. Hopefully tomorrow I will finish the bath and get a lot of the cabinet work completed and on Sunday insulation and headliner...

I also got some low amp draw led light fixtures I got on eBay - 2 for $17 and free shipping, that's less than my incandescent fixture I bought at a local RV supplier...I tested them out and they are brighter than the incandescent one.
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Old 04-09-2016, 12:56 AM   #78
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Johnny it looks great, also good work to boot.

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Working this weekend on finishing the bathroom, cabinets over our bed, insulation throughout and the headliner wall covering...hope I get it all done. Anyway here are some pictures of the progress with more to come over the weekend. Thank you to Borrego Dave too for some suggestions on the toilet cover/mod too in another thread...

I wanted a wet bath look even though it is not an actual wet bath so I am using plastic utility paneling from Home Depot for 19.95 for a 4x8 sheet. It also is to help protect any wood from any water not contained by the shower curtain and to improve the look aesthetically around the porta pottie and also conceals the water line connections for the shower, faucet and hot water heater. Also, the cover had to allow access to the toilet for servicing so I had to make a horseshoe removable top around it to allow access and removal of the black tank. I made a wood panel this past week before the toilet cover that was to conceal the water connections but now I am thinking I may remove it and put 2 small shelves for things like shampoo, conditioner, soap, etc. etc. in its place. Hopefully tomorrow I will finish the bath and get a lot of the cabinet work completed and on Sunday insulation and headliner...

I also got some low amp draw led light fixtures I got on eBay - 2 for $17 and free shipping, that's less than my incandescent fixture I bought at a local RV supplier...I tested them out and they are brighter than the incandescent one.
: a question from some one who has never worked with a moulded trailer before, how do you attach wood to the FG walls of the trailer, Do u just use Glue and if so How do u make it stay in place until dry and how much weight will it support or do you use screws from the outside walls etc.
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Old 04-09-2016, 04:10 AM   #79
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Stude that is a good question. From the factory when the molds are made wood is fiberglassed in to the shell and in components like the original cabinets, dinettes, etc for structural or component support. The factory would rivet these components to the shell or screw them down to the wood strips ("tabs" as they are called) fiberglassed to the shell. Over the years these rivets can become loose and potentially leak, so many here try to eliminate the rivets or at least as many as possible. Initially my goal was to not have any holes in the shell except for the window openings, vent, etc. so I eliminated all of the rivet holes to the body which the upper cabinets are attached, and additional screw holes made by previous owner for the roof a/c I removed, etc. Most of the ones I filled (fiberglassed over) were on the roof itself where there is the most potential for leaks. Some things required holes without any other viable options for re-attaching so I re-drilled the only rivet holes remaining which are the ones that hold the roof vent in place, the gutter above the door, the two side windows, and the hatches for water. electric and a/c vent. I did this because I wanted to make sure the rivets were a tight fit to reduce chances of leaks caused by original holes which may have worn or intentionally made larger over the years.

To answer your question more specifically, on nearly everything else I have fiberglassed additional wood tabs (1x2's or strips of plywood) to the shell to use as anchor points or used the ones left from the factory, either of which I would anchor to with screws. This takes some pre-planning when restoring and more so for modifications as to the placement of any new tabs. Weight is a concern, so you want to use wood strong and/or large enough to provide a good anchor to but keeping it to a minimum at the same time to keep added weight to a minimum. In my mod, the toilet cover shown in my last post above, and the wall of the bathroom, the cabinet for the fridge and our upper cabinets are all anchored to tabs with screws. The plywood wall for the bathroom and the cabinet for the fridge I used a heavy thicker plywood because these provide structural support for the roof and to keep the sides from bowing out (anchored to tabs) most everything else like the cover around the toilet I used the lightest/thinnest plywood I could get away with. Additionally on the bathroom wall and the fridge cabinet I filled any gaps where the wood meets the shell with a 2 part epoxy for additional strength to help further reduce the body from any flexing and for appearance (due to my minor imperfections of making the wood curves fit the body). This was especially important around the door frame. To answer the second part of your question, I used clamps or make shift bracing to hold the wood in place until the fiberglass resin or epoxy cured. By using the tabs we have the flexibility to make changes if our wants or needs change in the future without leaving holes in the outer shell.
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Old 04-09-2016, 04:24 AM   #80
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Also, with the help of my dad, I got the leak repaired on the hot water heater. There was a small crack in one of the copper lines just above where the connections are made. It was about a 1/4" long and slightly flared out indicating frozen water. I had disconnected both in and out lines in the fall and let it drain then reconnected the lines, but apparently there was a small amount of water still trapped in there that made its way down to this lowest point where the connections are. Hope to get the unit back on the tongue and pressure tested today.
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Old 04-09-2016, 11:56 AM   #81
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Thankyou Johnny M for the info

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Stude that is a good question. From the factory when the molds are made wood is fiberglassed in to the shell and in components like the original cabinets, dinettes, etc for structural or component support. The factory would rivet these components to the shell or screw them down to the wood strips ("tabs" as they are called) fiberglassed to the shell. Over the years these rivets can become loose and potentially leak, so many here try to eliminate the rivets or at least as many as possible. Initially my goal was to not have any holes in the shell except for the window openings, vent, etc. so I eliminated all of the rivet holes to the body which the upper cabinets are attached, and additional screw holes made by previous owner for the roof a/c I removed, etc. Most of the ones I filled (fiberglassed over) were on the roof itself where there is the most potential for leaks. Some things required holes without any other viable options for re-attaching so I re-drilled the only rivet holes remaining which are the ones that hold the roof vent in place, the gutter above the door, the two side windows, and the hatches for water. electric and a/c vent. I did this because I wanted to make sure the rivets were a tight fit to reduce chances of leaks caused by original holes which may have worn or intentionally made larger over the years.

To answer your question more specifically, on nearly everything else I have fiberglassed additional wood tabs (1x2's or strips of plywood) to the shell to use as anchor points or used the ones left from the factory, either of which I would anchor to with screws. This takes some pre-planning when restoring and more so for modifications as to the placement of any new tabs. Weight is a concern, so you want to use wood strong and/or large enough to provide a good anchor to but keeping it to a minimum at the same time to keep added weight to a minimum. In my mod, the toilet cover shown in my last post above, and the wall of the bathroom, the cabinet for the fridge and our upper cabinets are all anchored to tabs with screws. The plywood wall for the bathroom and the cabinet for the fridge I used a heavy thicker plywood because these provide structural support for the roof and to keep the sides from bowing out (anchored to tabs) most everything else like the cover around the toilet I used the lightest/thinnest plywood I could get away with. Additionally on the bathroom wall and the fridge cabinet I filled any gaps where the wood meets the shell with a 2 part epoxy for additional strength to help further reduce the body from any flexing and for appearance (due to my minor imperfections of making the wood curves fit the body). This was especially important around the door frame. To answer the second part of your question, I used clamps or make shift bracing to hold the wood in place until the fiberglass resin or epoxy cured. By using the tabs we have the flexibility to make changes if our wants or needs change in the future without leaving holes in the outer shell.
:
Great info to have as I would of loaded er up with screws, I trust them way more than Rivets. But the FG idea is way better than the screws, now I just need to learn how to mix and install FG, what kind to use etc. For the floor I would use a Marine Grade 3/4" to 1" Plywood, insulation I would blow it onto the walls, no movement that way and no worry about the glue eating the Foam, one would be surprised what this stuff can cover. I know I want a slightly taller Fridge so I will build that side of the cabinet a little taller and possibly a bit wider to fit it into the spot, it will still be a 2 way as I do not like using a Battery, I drive with my fridge on 24/7 and in the last 17 years have never had a problem doing this as I need to keep my insulin cold.
Where I raised the Fridge I will install the stove on top of the raised portion,
Make a 3 burner and I need to bake Bread I can use my home made oven which we put over the campfire works real good once the heat is set up.
I think u can buy these already made at Joe's place but where I saw it first it was called GI Joe's, I made mine slightly stronger as it almost sits on the fire.
I would find someone to make me a window in side the original frame with smallish window so I can open it to let in air but only after I install a fan in the roof vent this way I can move air to keep a bit cooler during the evenings when it is hot out. That way I know I can get some sleep.
And again Johnny thanks for all the info u gave me and the rest of us who were wondering how to attach wood to FG walls.
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Old 04-09-2016, 01:14 PM   #82
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AC & Porta Potti

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Got the bed finished up except for trim work and cabinet doors below on Friday so we left for Riverbend Campgrond near Helen and Hiawassee. I thought I would post some pics of how much larger our bed is now vs before.... We gained almost a foot in width. Only we had no hot water on this trip as the water heater leaked..,.apparently I didn't get all the water out of it back in the fall even though I disconnected both in and out lines and let it drain...oh well live and learn. Weather is beautiful but a little chilly....
: I have to assume the AC unit is under the bed and if so and you pile stuff in front of it how in the world does it cool off inside being blocked in that way? the other re PP is I think I would of made it so I can slide it out from the area it sits in as much easier to remove the Pooop Tank to a dump site than lift up the top and reach back down into a hole and lift up 45#'s of slop and if it spills what a mess. I had a similar situation on a old Class B where I could not open the rear doors and had to take it out through the interior of the Van. Finally I devised a plan to take off the top on the bed by putting a water proof blanket on it then putting top there and remove the base not the best way to do it but it worked. Then in reverse when putting back. So much easier to remove out of back door but I had a storage unit for stuff I could not put inside like gen set, extra gas (2gal) for emergencies, tools, extra water, etc.
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Old 04-09-2016, 05:36 PM   #83
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I thought of that Stude but we wanted our bathroom door and shower stall and I could not come up with a reasonable way to make that happen so we went with the lift up design as a next best thing. At some point down the road we may do a mod to have a black tank flush valve for the porta pottie or just change over to a marine type toilet/black tank all together but for now we will see how this works...okay breaks over I got to get back to my cabinet work...more updates to come....
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Old 04-09-2016, 05:56 PM   #84
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Shower and PP

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I thought of that Stude but we wanted our bathroom door and shower stall and I could not come up with a reasonable way to make that happen so we went with the lift up design as a next best thing. At some point down the road we may do a mod to have a black tank flush valve for the porta pottie or just change over to a marine type toilet/black tank all together but for now we will see how this works...okay breaks over I got to get back to my cabinet work...more updates to come....
:
What if shower in corner and PP in middle? I hope you installed plastic on all wooden walls to stop water rot in future.
I did 6 months on the road in a old Class B with no shower just sponge baths which worked out okay and I had to heat two kettles of hot water on stove also 2 burner. But it did the job, I either parked at a friends place, desert, Walmart, Church parking lots, Casino parking lots or where ever I could find a fairly safe spot to spend the night.
Lucky for me I found a lot of service stations in the USA with outside toilets to empty the PP in or outhouses that also worked occasionally. Big problem there was no way to flush system until I got to people I knew along the way with water hookup and to fill my water tank. Gray water I would park over a Drain and let the water out.
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