Our 1971 13' Boler mods - Page 7 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-15-2016, 11:49 PM   #85
Senior Member
 
Name: John
Trailer: Boler
Deep South
Posts: 688
Registry
Enjoying the weekend with our Boler at the Townsend TN KOA, our first rally. It's a beautiful place and we never seen so many "eggs" at one time. Met lots of nice people and quite a few came by to see our Boler some who are planning to attend the Eggs on the Hiawassee we are hosting next month. Got here about 3am as we left late Thursday from working on the cabinets and trim. When I get back I got to work on the cabinet doors...
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_20160411_205457630_HDR.jpg   IMG_20160411_205450871_HDR.jpg  

IMG_20160411_205445498.jpg   IMG_20160411_205433140.jpg  

__________________

__________________
Johnny M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2016, 12:36 AM   #86
Senior Member
 
Name: Peter
Trailer: G30 Elite Class C
British Columbia
Posts: 790
I do envy a good craftsman.
Stude
__________________

__________________
stude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2016, 09:34 AM   #87
Senior Member
 
Name: John
Trailer: Boler
Deep South
Posts: 688
Registry
Been so busy working on our Boler I haven't had time to update this here...this weekend I have several projects going on to get ready for the 1st annual "Eggs on the HIawassee Rally" we are hosting this coming week. I am working on making the cabinet doors, my wife is hand painting the wood knobs (the interior decor is a Mickey Mouse theme), I am finishing the interior of our door rebuild thanks to an awesome idea from Fiberglass Dave (more on this below), and we are about to apply the headliner today as we have finished the insulation...

As far as insulation on mine, everyone has pretty much said reflectix, and while I realize it would probably have been easier to cut and apply, I felt like the 1" polystyrene board would better insulate our Boler to make it easier for our 5000 BTU to keep it cool in the hot Georgia summers and also a better noise barrier. Most of it went in fine with "Locktite Professional 300" which says works on polystyrene, DAP contact cement worked too but if the plastic was torn on the styrofoam it attacked it so we switched. The round corners (they were a pain in the a**) don't look pretty without the headliner as we had to rough cut everything but filled in the cracks/voids with expanding spray foam and aluminum tape, once we get the headliner in today I think it will look fine. Our goal was to have a seamless headliner, so we are doing one continuous piece from the cabinet by the door all the way around the rear and up the drivers side to the bath room, inside the cabinets will be separate pieces and 2 on the ceiling and 2 in the bath so we should only have 4 seams showing if all goes well.

I have all the new "LED" lights installed and with the insulation up it is really nice and bright inside. I have got the wires hid inside the cabinets, and the porch light installed (got to get an led bulb for it). Got to do a few minor adjustments on the plumbing setup. Other than that my wife is working on a better setup for our shower curtain and I would like to get another coat of paint on before the rally but not sure that is gonna happen or not. Then all that is left is to put the belly band, gutter, and door trim back on...gonna be a busy 2 days...

More about the door - if you have read previous posts, our door interior was mush (all the wood rotted from water leaking in the door's window) so it would not hold its shape and I had to tear it down and rebuild it and in the process the inner skin was not reusable. Now I decided not to put wood back inside the door to lighten the weight (filled it with 1" styrofoam sheet insulation) and glassed over the window opening. Then I made a hand bent metal frame I epoxied to the inside of the outer door skin to retain its shape (worked very well, used metal conduit and was easier to work with than the 1" square tube I tried on the 1st attempt). The conduit frame flexed a little, but once epoxied to the door it was incredibly strong and should last at least 3 times as long as the wood filled door and is less than half the weight. Now for months I have pondered on how to finish the inside without disturbing the insulation with resin which would attack it. Thanks to Fiberglass Dave here, he suggested I turn the door outside face up and cover it with wax paper and wet out 3 layers of mat. It worked perfectly giving me an exact matching skin for the inner door (now why didn't I think of that!). After it cured I pulled off 2 of the 3 layers of wax paper but the one in the middle didn't come off - I think the paper may have been waxed on one side only , so we got as much as we could off the new skin. Then I trimmed it to fit the door and screwed it to the frame. Cut the door lock opening and began glassing it to the frame. I really took my time with this as I have learned though this camper project that you don't need a lot of resin to wet out the mat but it does take a good bid of stippling it in the mat with a chip brush and you get a strong but thinner and lighter weight piece of glass. Today I will remove the screws and glass over those areas then fill, sand and paint. Paint is not necessary on the inside as we are gonna apply headliner over the door interior but either way I think it will look nice when done.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_20160506_145242633_HDRa.jpg   IMG_20160506_150147465_HDRa.jpg  

IMG_20160506_170816359a.jpg   IMG_20160506_194533195_HDRa.jpg  

IMG_20160514_094853451a.jpg   IMG_20160514_094349458_HDRa.jpg  

IMG_20160514_094632852_HDRa.jpg   IMG_20160514_094654494_HDRa.jpg  

IMG_20160514_094719631a.jpg   shopping.jpg  

__________________
Johnny M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2016, 12:04 PM   #88
Senior Member
 
Name: John
Trailer: Boler
Deep South
Posts: 688
Registry
Been so busy have not had a chance to update...

First, we were nearly complete on the interior but the headliner glue issue had been a disappointing set back, although we have used the Boler anyway for several trips in spite of the head liner falling down.

After extensive research and not finding any suitable glue for our styrofoam insulation and marine headliner combination. So me and my wife discussed it and decided it was time to take a different approach. We have since decided to glass tabs to the interior shell, place the styrofoam sheet insulation between the tabs with construction adhesive (similar technique used in home construction), and then apply Polypanel wall covering over that and secured to the tabs with fasteners (most likely will be screws with snap caps but are considering velcro and open for suggestions). I got the idea from a boat restoration video in which they did the exact same thing, except the use formica for the panels and glued the marine headliner to them and installed the panels with heavy duty very wide strips of velcro which allowed the panels to be easily removed for servicing any wiring, plumbing etc. behind the panels. I thought this was ingenious and it looked really good, and would be a perfect solution for our Boler and in a sense give it a "2 hull design". So we are currently working on this in hopes of having it completed by Labor Day weekend.

The inside shoulders of our new tires had excessive wear after only a handful of trips since last fall. We discovered that the axle was worn out and had been flipped over from its original leading arm installation to a trailing arm by a previous owner (most likely to compensate for wear). So I am about to order a new Dexter #9 with Ian G.'s specs for $243 with a bolt on design and 2000 or 2200 lbs as opposed to the original 1200 lbs capacity of the Ingersol Rub R Rid original. I decided on the weight after weighing our trailer and it came up to 1420 pounds with all our gear minus water in the tanks, our clothes and food. Getting the correct weight was a fiasco (see my other thread My Boler weighs 720 pounds???)

Due to an error on my part during last years installation of new floors and remount of the body, I decided to fix the door opening which was about 1/2" wider at the bottom than at the top. This involved removing the lower floor and cutting the curb side upper floor from the body and trimming it, pulling the body together at the lower door frame, reinstalling/re-glassing the upper floor. In the process I had to disassembly my wood work of the refrigerator cabinet and the bathroom walls and remove them out of the trailer. While I had them out I decided to weigh all the components to get a total weight of the refrig cabinet (44 lbs) and the bathroom walls and shelf (69 lbs) which was a total added weight of 113 pounds to the unit, considering the weight I took out of the fiberglass fixtures I am comfortable with this added weight as they both serve as structural support for the roof and shape of the door side body. Both are constructed out of 3/4" plywood with a 1x2 door frame for the bath. Almost all of the refrigerator cabinet is over the axle so the bath adds minimal tongue weight to the unit. There was some caution posts over my design early on about added weight stressing the unit but with my design an layout I believe most of the added weight is over the axle including the permanent bed and upper cabinets.

Removing the lower floor was a blessing in disguise as I discovered upon looking at the previous owners axle mod that they had welded the axle to the lower floor frame for additional support (I guess) so I went ahead and cut those additional unnecessary welds free as I would not have been able to remove the axle with the lower floor in place.

Another thing is I am going to try my hand at glassing a shower pan to convert our shower stall (utility tub) and shower curtain combo to a wetbath.

And last but not least I am not entirely happy with my cabinetry. The 1x2 supports of the shelves are poor by my own design and I don't like the way they are held together with angle brackets, but the face frames look real nice! So with the tabs for the insulation/wall covering redo I may fix the bases of those cabinets and built them more like a residential cabinet. We'll see how that goes.

Well, time to get back to work. Sorry for no pictures, not much to show in progress right now, but I will post pictures of the new axle and install when I get to that point and also the cabinetry when I get it finished.
__________________
Johnny M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2016, 12:59 PM   #89
Senior Member
 
Name: Peter
Trailer: G30 Elite Class C
British Columbia
Posts: 790
Headliner Glue

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny M View Post
Been so busy have not had a chance to update...

First, we were nearly complete on the interior but the headliner glue issue had been a disappointing set back, although we have used the Boler anyway for several trips in spite of the head liner falling down.

After extensive research and not finding any suitable glue for our styrofoam insulation and marine headliner combination. So me and my wife discussed it and decided it was time to take a different approach. We have since decided to glass tabs to the interior shell, place the styrofoam sheet insulation between the tabs with construction adhesive (similar technique used in home construction), and then apply Polypanel wall covering over that and secured to the tabs with fasteners (most likely will be screws with snap caps but are considering velcro and open for suggestions). I got the idea from a boat restoration video in which they did the exact same thing, except the use formica for the panels and glued the marine headliner to them and installed the panels with heavy duty very wide strips of velcro which allowed the panels to be easily removed for servicing any wiring, plumbing etc. behind the panels. I thought this was ingenious and it looked really good, and would be a perfect solution for our Boler and in a sense give it a "2 hull design". So we are currently working on this in hopes of having it completed by Labor Day weekend.

The inside shoulders of our new tires had excessive wear after only a handful of trips since last fall. We discovered that the axle was worn out and had been flipped over from its original leading arm installation to a trailing arm by a previous owner (most likely to compensate for wear). So I am about to order a new Dexter #9 with Ian G.'s specs for $243 with a bolt on design and 2000 or 2200 lbs as opposed to the original 1200 lbs capacity of the Ingersol Rub R Rid original. I decided on the weight after weighing our trailer and it came up to 1420 pounds with all our gear minus water in the tanks, our clothes and food. Getting the correct weight was a fiasco (see my other thread My Boler weighs 720 pounds???)

Due to an error on my part during last years installation of new floors and remount of the body, I decided to fix the door opening which was about 1/2" wider at the bottom than at the top. This involved removing the lower floor and cutting the curb side upper floor from the body and trimming it, pulling the body together at the lower door frame, reinstalling/re-glassing the upper floor. In the process I had to disassembly my wood work of the refrigerator cabinet and the bathroom walls and remove them out of the trailer. While I had them out I decided to weigh all the components to get a total weight of the refrig cabinet (44 lbs) and the bathroom walls and shelf (69 lbs) which was a total added weight of 113 pounds to the unit, considering the weight I took out of the fiberglass fixtures I am comfortable with this added weight as they both serve as structural support for the roof and shape of the door side body. Both are constructed out of 3/4" plywood with a 1x2 door frame for the bath. Almost all of the refrigerator cabinet is over the axle so the bath adds minimal tongue weight to the unit. There was some caution posts over my design early on about added weight stressing the unit but with my design an layout I believe most of the added weight is over the axle including the permanent bed and upper cabinets.

Removing the lower floor was a blessing in disguise as I discovered upon looking at the previous owners axle mod that they had welded the axle to the lower floor frame for additional support (I guess) so I went ahead and cut those additional unnecessary welds free as I would not have been able to remove the axle with the lower floor in place.

Another thing is I am going to try my hand at glassing a shower pan to convert our shower stall (utility tub) and shower curtain combo to a wetbath.

And last but not least I am not entirely happy with my cabinetry. The 1x2 supports of the shelves are poor by my own design and I don't like the way they are held together with angle brackets, but the face frames look real nice! So with the tabs for the insulation/wall covering redo I may fix the bases of those cabinets and built them more like a residential cabinet. We'll see how that goes.

Well, time to get back to work. Sorry for no pictures, not much to show in progress right now, but I will post pictures of the new axle and install when I get to that point and also the cabinetry when I get it finished.
: John did u use a 3M product for this job if you did not u should be looking into it as my wife used a 3M glue but right now she cannot remember the name of it.
U have to spray the glue onto the Styrafoam and the headliner let it almost dry the put it up and it is not easy to do with one person 2-3 people would be
easier.
stude
__________________
stude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2016, 03:29 PM   #90
Senior Member
 
Name: John
Trailer: Boler
Deep South
Posts: 688
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by stude View Post
: John did u use a 3M product for this job if you did not u should be looking into it as my wife used a 3M glue but right now she cannot remember the name of it.
U have to spray the glue onto the Styrafoam and the headliner let it almost dry the put it up and it is not easy to do with one person 2-3 people would be
easier.
stude
We tried all the 3M's super 77, 90, 80, and auto headliner & trim (the $20/can stuff). All of them either attacked the styrofoam, failed under 90+ degree temps or both. Same for Dap contact cement. Locktite 300 spray did not attack the styrofoam but didn't hold up to the heat with the headliner. We decided this 2nd plan would be a guaranteed way to use decent insulation and a durable yet attractive wall covering that should last for years. Also tired of wasting materials.
__________________
Johnny M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2016, 10:07 PM   #91
Senior Member
 
Name: Peter
Trailer: G30 Elite Class C
British Columbia
Posts: 790
Well in that case for me to get styrofoam to stick to my metal roof

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny M View Post
We tried all the 3M's super 77, 90, 80, and auto headliner & trim (the $20/can stuff). All of them either attacked the styrofoam, failed under 90+ degree temps or both. Same for Dap contact cement. Locktite 300 spray did not attack the styrofoam but didn't hold up to the heat with the headliner. We decided this 2nd plan would be a guaranteed way to use decent insulation and a durable yet attractive wall covering that should last for years. Also tired of wasting materials.
In my old truck I did like u and it fell down to and the foam was all eaten away so I talked to a few people and they told me water based glue so I bought a 1 gallon can of it and got a paint scraper and stuck it on every where , but before this as I was doing it all alone I made a jig to hold it all up when I walked away from it, then stuck it up and put the Jig in place and left it over night.
Reason for putting Foam on inside of roof was so I could sleep in the back of the truck without getting soaked from my breathing on in there on a cold night when out out hunting or what ever else one does to have fun in the back of the truck. Man it worked great did not fall down ever and I had that truck for 20 years, did same in my 75 Suburban worked great.
Have u tried a headliner Glue that they use in body shops for holding up headliner. Maybe go to a auto body shop and talk to the guy who does this work and see what they say.
Stude
__________________
stude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2016, 07:57 PM   #92
Senior Member
 
Name: John
Trailer: Boler
Deep South
Posts: 688
Registry
Figured I would update the progress I have made over the last few weeks. I do apologize though as my time was limited and I forgot to take pictures of some of the work. I bought and installed a new Dexter axle (#9 - side mount standard profile bolt on trailing arm) and stayed with the same mounting mod underneath the lower floor that the previous owner did to the original axle. We discovered that the old axle was badly bent which was causing the tire wear. The trailer weighs just over 1400 lbs with no food or clothes but all our other camping gear we would normally take so we went with a 2200 lb capacity axle allowing for future batteries and solar setup. I also made a final adjustment to the body to get a perfect fit of the door but now I think it may be a tad too tight as I can't close the door with the bulb door seal in place. I made some adjustments to the bathroom to accommodate a sink and convert it to a wet bath. Now I just have to make the shower pan. We decided to scrap the foam insulation and marine vinyl and go with reflectix and indoor/outdoor carpet over that. It was easier to put up overall and so far seems to be staying put with the contact cement and it looks nice. Now I am trying to refine my cabinet making skills on the upper cabinets and the finishing of all the wood work. I will get some more pictures of everything this weekend.

Sent from my XT1032 using Fiberglass RV mobile app
Attached Thumbnails
1473901065008.jpg  
__________________

__________________
Johnny M is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
a/c, air conditioner, bath, bathroom, boler, closet, door, floor, rebuild, restoration, roof top, shower, toilet


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Our Boler Mods: Air, Flooring, Blinds, Backspash, cushion covers... Markz Modifications, Alterations and Updates 9 08-07-2011 07:51 PM
Some Simple Mods to our Compact Jr Rick Brown Modifications, Alterations and Updates 5 07-29-2009 05:47 AM
mods for our trip to colorado Candi Woods Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 2 06-14-2007 05:45 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.