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Old 05-06-2017, 07:19 PM   #121
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Old 05-06-2017, 07:24 PM   #122
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The last two pictures is of the tongue box given to me by my neighbor. I reconfigured the water heater & LP tank and it worked out nicely. It will hold at least 4 Trojan T-125 6 volt batteries with room to spare but I only plan on adding 2 to keep the weight down and that should be plenty for us with LED lighting. The olive drab green has got to go though.
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Old 05-06-2017, 07:35 PM   #123
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Great work Johnny! A lot of it too.
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Old 05-06-2017, 07:54 PM   #124
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Great work Johnny! A lot of it too.
Thanks Mike, and yes it has been 2+ years now but we can see the light at the end of the tunnel as the list of to do's grows shorter. Eventually we will be able to just hook up and go! Lots of places & campgrounds on the list to see & visit...
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Old 05-06-2017, 07:59 PM   #125
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I bought my UHAUL last Nov. I plan on camping this fall at the latest. My biggest purchase I haven't made is the ClimateRight AC. Still have one winow to put in and I could go third world camping. Where's the fun in that? I have a motorcycle and tent camping is a love of mine. The camper will be for get togethers and a woman if I ever get another!
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Old 05-06-2017, 08:02 PM   #126
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I bought my UHAUL last Nov. I plan on camping this fall at the latest. My biggest purchase I haven't made is the ClimateRight AC. Still have one winow to put in and I could go third world camping. Where's the fun in that? I have a motorcycle and tent camping is a love of mine. The camper will be for get togethers and a woman if I ever get another!
You should bring the U-Haul to the rally we host Eggs on the Hiawassee. You can dry camp there for $10 per night but the hookup sites are full (May 18-20). Several other U-Hauls will be attending, over 75 campers that we know of all together.
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Old 05-07-2017, 07:46 PM   #127
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ID:	105808 Found this 4 1/2 inch shower drain at Home Depot this morning with threads on the bottom side that fit the 1 1/4 Hepvo 90 elbow perfectly. Also got the fittings to tie it into my 1 inch drain pipe. This Hepvo trap completely stopped the sink water from backing up into the shower. Also I modified my gray tank by adding a pvc valve and adapter for the short garden hose that connects to the drain pipe on the Boler. By putting it on the side of the tank the water doesn't have to go up and over into the tank. I tested it running the sink and the 22 gallon portable gray tank filled to capacity. I am so happy with its performance using just gravity I am putting the drain pump on hold and if it works this well with the shower I won't need the pump at all. Also I have almost 3 full inches more of ground clearance at the lowest point of the Hepvo/drain combo.
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Old 05-07-2017, 07:47 PM   #128
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Old 05-07-2017, 07:56 PM   #129
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Forgot to mention the above shower drain fit my existing drain hole perfectly so I didn't need to alter it as anticipated. This drain is a standard size shower drain on top but has threads on the bottom like a sink drain making it well suited for rv use. The only problem was the odd metal flange/washer which I could not make work due to the thickness of the plywood floor of the wetbath and the depth of the threads on the drain that the hepvo threads to. I ended up cutting a scrap piece of fiberglass with my jigsaw to make a flat flange/washer to go under the lock nut and it worked perfectly. The one it came with stepped down as seen in the side view shot of the new drain.
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Old 05-07-2017, 08:00 PM   #130
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The part number for this Danco drain is 10644 if you should decide to follow my setup. Everything else is standard compression fittings and schedule 40 pvc.
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Old 05-17-2017, 11:31 AM   #131
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Well it needs at least 1 maybe 2 more coats of the Rustoleum Marine Top Side Red and the White too, but there is not enough time. The white lost its gloss in some places, not sure if that is from me painting to late with the dew at night or from me going back over a few spots before I was done. This was done with a fine sponge roller, tipping with the brush didn't work but the paint seemed to flatten out for the most part pretty well but I have some roller marks. Maybe better to spray it or paint in the garage with the a/c on. Will do more coats later. Now got to get ready to head to Hiawassee in the morning for Eggs on the Hiawassee! See you there
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Old 05-23-2017, 03:18 PM   #132
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Hi John. Amazing job!! Boler looks awesome. I might have missed it from one of your earlier threads but with your fridge did you not have to put any sort of venting in for it? I am thinking of using a mini bar fridge and I'm not sure if I am going to need to cut a hole in the fiberglass behind it and screen it in for some ventilation.
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Old 05-28-2017, 11:42 PM   #133
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bkboler Thanks! We decided on a 110 only compressor fridge (Emerson 1.6 cuft) so we did not need the vent and it works well. If we had went with a propane 2 or 3 way then I would have needed the venting. I think there is even a 12v only compressor model that doesnt require venting.
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Old 05-28-2017, 11:46 PM   #134
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I did btw leave about 4 inches of clearance to the back side of the unit from the fiberglass body to keep heat from building up and it opens up in the back lower corner to under the permanent bed for the cord so heat can dissapate.
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Old 05-29-2017, 08:52 AM   #135
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Except for another coat or two of paint on the exterior, replacing the belly band and some minor work like interior wood trim & other finishing touches we are for the most part done with our 2+ year restomod...here are some before and after pics and my logo graphic for the front window. Overall I think it turned out very well. My wife made all the Mickey Mouse curtains, pillows, etc. and hand painted the cabinet knobs to match. I thought she did a very good job. Some folks said our Boler looks like a fishing bobber but we decided to call her "Suite 13"...
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Old 05-29-2017, 09:01 AM   #136
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Very nice
Now get out and enjoy it
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Old 05-29-2017, 09:15 AM   #137
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Very nice
Now get out and enjoy it
Thank you! We are, we hosted the Eggs on the Hiawassee River rally last week in NE Georgia (78 fiberglass eggs in one place!) and camping in my sister n laws driveway this weekend for the nieces graduation/memorial day weekend. We plan to use it alot including to the Keys and the Grand Canyon. Gotta get my solar panels for those twp trips though but plan on boondocking often.
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Old 07-18-2017, 03:04 PM   #138
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Plumbing update

After having various leaks, I finally decided the polyethelene water lines and barbed fittings just were not cutting it. The 2 way valve - for switching tank to city water - I got at an RV store had pex fitting, but the poly line slipped over it like the other barbed fittings but was a tighter fit. The last 2 leaks were around the 3 way fittings. The polyethelene line was getting hair line cracks over time from expanding over the pex ends rather than regular barbs. It was rated fine for the PSI and hot water temps, but just couldn't handle the stretch over the pex fitting. The other barbs seemed to be okay but I had some drips here and there, though nothing major.

Since the pex tool alone was $60+ not counting all new pex fittings, I opted to go with CPVC water line. I replaced everything from the city water to the water heater to the sink/shower all for under $50 (cpvc lines, cpvc elbows, 2 valves, cpvc connections/converter fittings, already had the cpvc cement). Instead of a 2 way valve I installed (2) separate valves to control city water and tank water supplies. This added the ability for me to fill the tank while connected to city water by opening both valves. I still have poly tubing connected from the tank to the pump and the pump to the cpvc conversion fitting, but everything else is cpvc. The whole plumbing arrangement looks much cleaner and neater now. I used 4 faucet connection lines that had threaded fittings using compression washers for seals so I could easily change out the faucet in the future and also for disconnecting the tankless water heater in the future. These ran about $25 for all 4 including tax and was in addition to the $40-50 spent on cpvc items but were worth the extra $$ so I don't have any issues with connection points. The first set (stainless steel) didn't work as the threaded swivel wouldn't connect to the CPVC threaded adapter as it was too short to thread on due to the compression washer. I took it back and got ones with plastic swivels on on end which where deep enough to thread onto the CPVC connection points as you can see in the photos going to the sink and water heater. The other metal threaded swivel ends didn't matter as they fit perfectly to the sink and water heater. Now I can disconnect the water heater and remove from the tongue in about a minute come winter. The CPVC fittings at the tongue also serves as a draining point for winterizing as they are lower than any other part of the plumbing system.

Got to test it this weekend on a trip to Cosby/Gatlinburg TN and it performed great. If I ever plumb another trailer (or anything else) this will be the way I do it. The install takes longer, to plan out were each line has to go & turn as cpvc isn't flexible like the tubing, but well worth the advantages in both cost and ease of making a water tight seal.

Make sure if you use it for hot water it is CPVC, regular PVC is not rated for hot water use. I could have saved a few buck on the cold water lines by using PVC but it was just simpler to buy all CPVC. Actually might have cost more the other way as I would have had more waste. (2) 10' lines and (1) 5' line was all I needed to cut all the lengths needed for the whole system.

Hopefully me sharing what has worked for me and what has not worked will save someone else time and expense with their project egg...

Oh, BTW, the drain system I reconfigured earlier works well as long as my portable gray tank is lower than the drain system on the camper. I need either a lift kit to raised the body/floor off the ground or a gray pump installed for when the tank is higher than the plumbing as it drains but slowly.
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Old 07-18-2017, 03:39 PM   #139
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One step forward and 2 back - on our way back from Cosby TN yesterday our rear bumper failed right above where the receiver was welded for our bike rack. At first I thought the welds failed but on closer inspection the metal cracked/broke right above the welds. I knew the frame was of thin gauge metal, but I was really shocked at just how thin it is. I have seen bbq grills at Walmart with thicker gauge steel.

The opening at the broke/cracked metal frame revealed some significant rusting on the inside of the tubular frame. No practical way to inspect for this rusting inside of the tube. Two years ago when I had the body off I stripped the paint off the frame (wire brush and sanded), inspected, primed and painted but no visible sign of integrity issues at that time, until now anyway...

Now I will be planning for a new frame - heavier gauge steel, extra bracing, gussets and full weld beads at all seams and a lift kit to better the ground clearance.
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IMG_20170718_162928379[1].jpg   IMG_20170718_162922697.jpg  

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Old 07-28-2017, 12:22 PM   #140
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Hi John, Couple of questions for you if you don't mind. On page 5, post #70, the first pic you have what looks like a 2 x 4 horizontal with what looks like a 1 x 4 under going down to the floor. Did you glass that in or is it just glued to the wall? also you mentioned using PL construction adhesive or 2 part epoxy. I would like to use the PL adhesive. What kind would you recommend (looks like there are a ton of different varieties). I am planning on tabbing everything back in so I bought a 2 x 2 x 8 piece of cedar which I was going to cut into small blocks. I thought about just using plywood cut to a curve like you did but I thought something thicker would be a little stronger. Last question (for now)lol, How many layers of matt did you use when glassing in the tabs?
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