Overhead cabinet support - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-16-2013, 12:44 PM   #1
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Overhead cabinet support

Work is progressing on our 13' Love Bug.

We bartered a power tool in exchange for overhead cabinets for the front and back of the camper. They won't be ready for several months because our carpenter is backed up. He understands that they must be light weight.

I've looked at lots of pics of the small interiors that have the upper end cabinets installed, and have not seen or read of any additional support.

I have been thinking (look out) about this. since the roofs can't support much weight from the top, and the sides are supported by the closet and the poles at the galley, do these upper cabinets need some additional support? Or, does the curve of the shell at the ends create a strong enough area?
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Old 09-16-2013, 02:21 PM   #2
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Overhead cabinet support/

take a look at preparing a 1991 Scamp under Modifications. I supported a rear overhead cabinet off the window frames and a frot cabinet by cantilevering it off the bathroom wall.
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Old 09-18-2013, 11:26 AM   #3
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Fiberglass is floppy and flexible in sheets, but becomes a rigid support member when you put a bend in it. Home-built fiberglass airplanes, for example, usually have a cone-shape tail from the cockpit back to the horizontal and vertical control surfaces that are made entirely of fiberglass.

Cabinets at the front and back corners of a fiberglass use the bend at the corners of the trailer to support them. As long as the center section of the trailer is supported and not allowed to deform, the cabinets should be fine.

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Old 09-18-2013, 12:04 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
take a look at preparing a 1991 Scamp under Modifications. I supported a rear overhead cabinet off the window frames and a frot cabinet by cantilevering it off the bathroom wall.
I tried to follow what Norm did with our wire shelf. I attached aluminum L-chanel to the window frame using the original screw attachments, and to the side shelves. Works very well, and no signs of any problems. Good luck with you project.
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Old 09-19-2013, 07:55 AM   #5
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Good to see Peterh here and I must say Cat that I am impressed by what you have done. You have given me along with Peterh, some great ideas and problem solving info, i.e. the door (support). I actually had to cut away the steel part of the frame along with the threshold. Putting the wood there makes a great deal of sense, as well as discarding the old fiberglass that held the rotted wood and attached new fiberglass (something I intend to do as well, but hadn't thought about it). Kepp up the good work, and I look forward to seeing the finished product.
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Old 09-19-2013, 10:53 AM   #6
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Thanks to all for the kind words of encouragement and good input. The pictures help a lot. It always helps me, to be able to see an example.

Neauone, did you have steel in your door or on the door frame? There was no additional support on the hinge side of our door frame. Putting in the support helped lift the roof, which helped bring the doorway to a better shape.
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:19 AM   #7
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I had part of the frame rusted out that looked like the chassis, I cut away about 6"x5" piece that was attached to it no more than 1/8-2/8th's , but the piece of metal that I took off the body that seemed to either give support to the egg or help with keeping the door stable.
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:30 AM   #8
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Glad something I said or did could be of help to someone else. Sometimes it feels like all I do is run in place.
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Old 09-19-2013, 01:42 PM   #9
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I need more detail please

Quote:
I attached aluminum L-chanel to the window frame using the original screw attachments, and to the side shelves.
- neauone

I'm just not understanding how this attachment is done. Do you remove the original screw, but use the same hole in the shell and double up on the items using the hole and replace the screw? (I'm guessing you need to get some of these screws, nuts and other parts from Scamp?). I guess you could double up on those screws holding the curtain rods for some other attachment points.

I'd like close up pictures of how this is done. Also you had to modify the wire shelf by cutting the back, I've seen the use of cardboard template, but what tool used to cut the wires? (I'm pretty ignorant of all this handyman stuff - need any art advice?)

I have a Scamp 13 with a rear cabinet, but I'm thinking it would be nice to have wire racks between the rear cabinet and the closet wall on one side and the kitchen cabinet on the other. (For lightweight stuff like pillows.) I might also like to add a wire rack on the front end, but there are fewer screws up in that area.

I'm not actually DOING any of this yet, but am storing away all these ideas!

Thanks everyone!
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Old 09-19-2013, 02:14 PM   #10
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Shelf supports.

I supported our rear overhead cabinets from the tops of the rear and side windows. Went to Lowes and got some aluminum angle probably 1/2 x 1"
.
Cut aluminum to length and drilled holes at the frame's screw spacing. Painted it black, removed the top frame screws, mounted the angle using the same screws. The angle I used was only a 1/16th thick so same screws were OK. There are no nuts involved.

The angle sides can be different widths depending on what you're mounting and your Windows.

The side windows on the Scamp were lower than the rear. To compensate I added a piece of wood to the sides angle. I later built shelves on this piece of wood.

There may be pictures under modifications/Preparing a 1991 Scamp.
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