The face frame is 5/8" Ultralite MDF for weight
savings. MDF of course is a very smooth face and produces a nice painted finish. Any edges require a little work with filler and a few coats of paint
to seal them but MDF should not be used where there is any chance it will get wet as it will suck up moisture like a sponge, even if sealed. The upper and lower tracks for the sliders are from some 1" x 2" Finger Joint Maple that I had left over from a previous project.
As far as fastening the slider in transit ...... I just drilled a hole at each bottom corner of the middle one, this sits in the front track, and into the sidesliders where they overlap. I then just insert two little wooden pegs ( black in pic ) into the these holes and these set the doors in place.
Because the sliders by pass each other with little space in between there is usually a thumb hole put in each door for sliding it with. I did find some very low profile 'bumpers' , that are used to cushion the impact on closing cabinet doors, and these were self adhesive and nicely stuck onto the slider face to form a pull without interfering with the travel.
The sliders are easily lifted up into the top track and pulled out for better access to the cabinet interior
Very observant of you Gordon to identify that there is a false bottom. The polished inside bottom of the cabinet is made of several pieces of 1/4" plywood ( flooring underlayment actually ) that will lift up and come through the openings in the face frame. This exposes a cavity in which I was able to run electrical
wiring that extends from the three switches, on the left in one of the pics, to the lights
that they serve.
Please see the attached pics for some clarification of the above.
Let me know if you are thinking of dissimilar and I could dig around for earlier pics that might give a few clues to fabrication details.