Preparing a 1991 Scamp 16 - Page 36 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-01-2013, 11:06 AM   #491
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Name: Norm and Ginny
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We have begun updating our Scamp after our trip to Newfoundland. We had purchased this little valve to insert into the toilet's feed line.

I understand this is a common addition on Casitas and since I found this little valve I've installed it
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:26 AM   #492
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I had trouble including the picture of the valve.

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Old 07-15-2013, 10:17 AM   #493
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Chinks in the armor.

In NL we found that flying creatures of the night could get in. One weak link is rhe rear sliding window. When open there's a gap between the sliding window and the screen. I added a piece of foam to the middle edge of the screen closing the gap.

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Next is screening for the air conditioner vents.
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Old 07-16-2013, 01:15 PM   #494
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Looks good Norm. How did you remove the screen? On our '98 Scamp our screens are held in place with little plastic parts that appear to be glued to the screen frame. I tried to remove one once and broke the plastic.
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:05 PM   #495
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Ken,

To take my screen out I slid it to the door side and it pretty much fell out, something I still don't understand why it fell out but did.

In the process of putting it back in I broke the rear top plastic piece. It seems to sit fine without it.

There's also a little rubber piece in the bottom groove that one can pull out that makes it real easy to put the screen back in. Once the screens in position you can use a needle nose pliers to force the rubber back in. Saying that, I was able to get the screen in with the rubber in.

I put the curved part in first and pushed the back up into the upper ridge.

I'll try it again tomorrow and ee if I can be more definitive.
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:04 AM   #496
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Ken,

I checked my window screen and this morning slid it to the driver's side. The rear of the screen simply comes loose.
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:06 AM   #497
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Thanks

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Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
Ken,

I checked my window screen and this morning slid it to the driver's side. The rear of the screen simply comes loose.
Norm,

Thanks for checking. I'll give mine a try too. I'd like to add foam like you did to keep the skeeters from entering thru the rear window. I noticed ours has quite a gap when its open.

Ken
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Old 07-27-2013, 02:56 PM   #498
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12 Volt DC Outlet

We just purchased an Endless Breeze fan that runs on 12 volts, nice for boondocking. We presently have 3 12 volt outlets but none in the area of the dinette.

I installed one there tapping into the waterpump's 12 volt line. The 12 volt outlet is located below the added AC outlet.

The Endless Breeze is the best fan I've ever seen.

I don't know how 3 pictures got into the post.

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Old 07-27-2013, 04:03 PM   #499
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I just looked that fan up as I hadnt heard of it before. It seems a bit pricey but if it does the job. Where do you store it?
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Old 07-27-2013, 04:28 PM   #500
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I haven't tried to store it yet. I normally store my fan under the dinette when not using it but I'll let you know.

I've typically spent $10-20 for a fan but this one's made by Fantastic and they are expensive but good.
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Old 07-27-2013, 06:33 PM   #501
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Mike it's certainly not going to fit under the dinette, just a little tall. It is very thin. Tomorrow I'll take a look about.
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:13 AM   #502
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Storing the Endless Fan

Most of my storage space has been divided up into shelves and a pullout pantry. The only space left where it will fit is in the center compartment under the front couch. There is space for me to put it at the rear of that compartment.

In other Scamps like mine it could fit in the cabinet under the stove or in the large hanging closet. My hanging closet is filled with an AC unit at floor level, a hamper above that and shelves the rest of the way but it could be a place for the fan for others.

There is a tall closet under the sink as well, ours is divided into four shelves for pots and pans.

In reality, we keep our fan out most of the time because we are usually in warmer climates except during our spring trips to Newfoundland and Alaska. When we travel we typically just lay the fan or electric heater down under the dinette.
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:25 AM   #503
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Attachment to bumper?

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Double thanks Donna

Norm

P.S. Adding a rear bumper box 32x14x14" for hoses, power cords and blocks. Supporting it with a 5x5 plastic fence pole that will screw to bumper. The fence post is hollow and will hold a spare sewer hose. (It seems extra sewer hose is often needed as is a support for the box.) Pictures Monday or Tuesday.

The tire will remained attached to the standard tire mounts. The top cover of the plastic box is cutout for the tire, leaving the bottom 40% of the tire in the box.
Norm, your mods are an inspiration. I need to add a bumper box similar to yours and was going to use a bolt-on receiver hitch and platform cargo carrier - your setup looks to be much lighter and of course more cost-effective. Question is, how did you attach the fence post cover to the bumper? You say you "screwed it on," but with what hardware and technically speaking, in what manner? I.e., if the fence post is a hollow tube, how did you reach inside it to screw into it? Or did you use brackets? Do you drill into the metal bumper itself? Thanks
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Old 08-21-2013, 11:41 AM   #504
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Brandagor,
I have 25 visitors today but will post some pictures for you in the morning

I bought my box at Walmart. It was about 18 dollars.

Remove the cover from the Bumper box. In my case it required pulling a long pin out. I cut the pin holders off with an electric sabers saw after removing the pin.

I removed the spare tire and centered the box on it. Mark the ends of the box on the bumper. It may be necessary to notch the back of the box a little around the lower spare screw. When mounting the box be sure it is firmly against the trailer and on the bumper.

I began by mounting 3 18" right angle L brackets to the bumper. Before doing this I cut the short side so it was the length of the bumper. I may of cut the long side so it didn't stick out beyond the box the outside brackets are mounted so the bracket ends up under the front foot tab of the box. I get underneath the mounted brakes with an electric drill and put a clearance hole thru the brakes and came for screws. I don't the same thing in the rear corners of the box from the top sidevdrilling thru the bumper.

Since there is no center foot on the box you may need to add a 1/4" spacer between the bottom of the box and the center L bracket. I used painted plywood. Also any cut edge on the brackets was painted. Use lock washers on all screws. Make sure all brackets are flat with the top of the bumper.

The fence posts mount to the bottom of the L brackets before the box goes on permanently. I put four screws thru the bracket and the posts. To download this I held the posts up from the ground side and drilled thru the center of the u profile L bracket and put screws and nuts thru. The screws should be close to the posts corners to prevent interference with any thing you put in the fence posts. If you use one for a sewer hosedrill some drain holes in the bottom.

Please read this and don't hesitate to ask questions. I'll read it after our company leaves and attempt to improve it but it should get you started.
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