Preparing a 1991 Scamp 16 - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-31-2011, 10:41 AM   #43
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Refridgerator Fan Installation

Carol,
I used a 4x4x1" 12 volt muffin fan. You can purchase one at a local computer store or off ebay. Picture below. They usually come with two wires. I installed mine so it's blowing up thru the coils.




I opened the outside vent of the fridge compartment and stuck the fan in kitty corner between the pipes and tied two corners of the fan to the black pipes with tywraps. I used thin tywraps thru the fan's mounting holes. Hopefully you can see this in the picture.

I wired the fan to the 12 volt piezo supply in the lower left corner of the fridge but anywhere there's 12 volts will do. The red wire is usually +12 volts on the fan. The remaining wire goes to white on the trailer, usually ground.

I left the loop of wire to allow me to install a switch in the red wire to turn it off in cold weather.

Hope this helps. I will say it really does the job. I've had to turn the fridge down to prevent freezing.

Norm
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Fan2.jpg   Wires.jpg  

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Old 05-31-2011, 01:55 PM   #44
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THANKS for the info very appreciated!
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:25 PM   #45
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Today I began building the rear overhead cabinet. It is 19" deep x 70" across and 11" high in the center; these are maximum dimensions, decreasing as you head to the corners.

There will be 3 openings in the front. The center opening is 7x31 inches. The two side compartments openings are 5x11". Compartment doors will have gas cylinders for support. The center section is designed to hold our electric blanket, a comforter/bedspread and our sheets.....and they do fit.

The front and bottom are made of 1/4" birch faced plywood that will be clear urethaned.

This is a rather simple unit to make. My approach is to rest the cabinet on the top edges of the side and rear windows. I began with pieces of 1/2" x 1/4" aluminum angle to broaden these edges. I drilled holes in one side of the angle matching the holes in the window frame. I did this for the rear window and the side windows. Removed the screws from the top of the window frames and using the same screws, screwed on the angle.

The bottom of the cabinet will rest on these aluminum rails. Holes have also been drilled in the other edge of the angle to allow screwing up through the rail into the bottom of the overhead cabinet.

Getting the curve for the bottom piece and the front panel is the toughest part. My technique is to cut a 1x3 and pressure fit it between the side walls at the right height. This piece is parallel to the rear window and 18" from the window at each end.

I mark the top surface of the 1x3 at inch intervals and measure the distance to the wall, marketing it on the 1x3. I than take the 1x3 and lay it out on an 18" wide of plywood and cut the curve.

I removed the rivets that hold the rear curtain rod. I filled the end four holes and kept the center holes open. I may use these with a bolt to connect to a rear stiffener. The stiffener will be glued and screwed to the bottom panel.

Two additional stiffeners will be added to the bottom panel, one in the corner and one in the center. These stiffeners will provide mounting points for our TV. We use a single point hook to hang our TV, I will show it at a later date. At night we usually have our TV in the corner of the bed; during the day it is typically over the table.

Fastening points. The bottom is attached to all three windows thru the now painted black aluminum angle. It is attached to the rear of the trailer thru the center mounting point of the curtain rod holders. It will be attached to the roof thru a piece attached to the rivet holes used to mount the light at the front of the overhead cabinet. This light will be removed and lights installed on the bottom of the cabinet.

I'll show it later but the rear and side windows are not at the same level. I run a 1x3 from the kitchen cabinets under the bottom front corner of the rear overhead. The 1x3 rests on the side window's added aluminum rail. This wooden piece will eventually be screwed to the kitchen cabinet and the rear overhead cabinet. This piece of wood will also support a U- shaped open cabinet, these little storage spots, one on each side, will be about 4"x24".

Tommorrow I'll urethane the cabinet and begin assembly.
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Rear Overhead 1.jpg   Rear Overhead 2.jpg  

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Old 06-01-2011, 09:27 PM   #46
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I love opening this thread! You are doing such great things!
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Old 06-02-2011, 10:50 AM   #47
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I dont like opening it! Its a bit like Joy's postings! Great ideas and work but it makes me start to think I can do it - how hard can it be! Not!
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Old 06-02-2011, 08:08 PM   #48
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Carol, The reason I wrote so much on the rear overhead cabinet was in case someone was interested in doing it themselves. Definitely not a construction manual but an indicator that it's not impossible. Norm
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Old 06-02-2011, 08:14 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
Carol, The reason I wrote so much on the rear overhead cabinet was in case someone was interested in doing it themselves. Definitely not a construction manual but an indicator that it's not impossible. Norm
hehe - Norm it worked - it did catch my attention & get me thinking!
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Old 06-03-2011, 02:15 PM   #50
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Rear Overhead done

I've completed the rear overhead, minus a couple of small pieces of trim and the TV mounts.

Norm
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Old 06-03-2011, 02:33 PM   #51
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I just spent 4 hours taping and papering EVERYTHING in Bean so we can spray the 3M 90 tomorrow and put up the Reflectix and YOU make a beautiful overhead cabinet today!

What can I say? YOU ROCK (and I'm tired!)

Vickie
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Old 06-03-2011, 02:53 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
I've completed the rear overhead, minus a couple of small pieces of trim and the TV mounts.

Norm
YUP you rocked it!
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Old 06-04-2011, 12:29 PM   #53
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Pantry, 24 can, Root storage below

Above the wheelwell, I've added two slide out drawers. Each drawer is capable of holding 12-14 cans.

Below the drawers and in front of the wheelwell is a plastic bin for holding onions.
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Old 06-04-2011, 12:39 PM   #54
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Storage Shelves

Between the fiberglass overhead cabinets and the rear wooden overhead cabinet I finished yesterday I added a 24" long x5" deep and 3" high front. This shelve is not as effective as it might be because of the curce of the roof.

However it serves to stiffen the whole structure, tying the rear overhead to the kitchen and providing storage for miscellaneous items on each side.

They haven't been clear urethaned.

Shelves and a pantry today. Tomorrow a start on the front Overhead.
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Old 06-04-2011, 04:16 PM   #55
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Do you even sleep, Norm?????
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Old 06-04-2011, 07:31 PM   #56
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Vickie,
Retired and getting ready for the Prince Edward Island Rally next month.

After finishing the front overhead cabinet that will pretty much have us ready for our trip.

Having fun,

Norm
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