I have 26 drawers and cabinets. I am not doing all of them. Some never open or have light items that can never force the drawer or cabinet door open. I have focused on those that have opened and have heavy items behind them.
The first time of doing anything is always a learning experience. First all my Cabinet doors are home made and thinner than the standard Scamp
doors. You need to be sure not to drill the back of the door's screw hole thru the front of the cabinet door. I put a piece of tape on the drill bit like a flag to give me an idea of the depth of the hole. I'm sure there are drill stops available but I don't have one.
It was not possible for me to mount the latches at the bottom of the overhead cabinet doors so I mounted them on the side. You have to pay attention and make sure the screw hole is inside the cabinet opening or the screwhead will prevent the cabinet door from closing. Once the latch is mounted, you use it as a guide for the latching screw.
On a couple of occasions I moved the back of the door latch to get it right. You get no second chance with the front of the cabinet latching screw.
The front of the cabinet screw is the difficult part, at least in the fiberglass version. Dave who found this solution has an all wood, Scamp
Deluxe. The suggestion is to use a 3/32nds drill for both screws. For the non-wood, fiberglass, I used a larger drill 7/64ths and even a 1/8th. The screw has to go into its shoulder and this is difficult to do in fiberglass and more difficult to do with out chipping. In the areas where the fiberglass cabinets is thin, i.e. like the middle of the overhed cabinets, it's not too bad getting the screws in. If it feels like it's binding stop, you can shear theses screws off. In these conditions I back the screw out and ream it or use a different screw.
Brian's suggestion of using stainless screws or the square head screws is a good one. I used one Canadain square head screw. ( I call them Canadian screws because it's the primary screw available in Canada and I buy some on every trip.) The difficulty is where you're installing a screw near a corner, the glass tends to be thicker. My toughest one was the utensil draw with the screw located at top center above the draw top.
The screw has to go far enough in so the drawer does not move when latched, usually about an 1/8th of an inch from the cabinet face. Make sure you have a good screwdriver for the brass screws that solidly sits in the head.
I haven't tried it but I considered lubricating the fiberglass screws with a little silicone spray. Fiberglass makes a verygood lock nut and these screws will not loosen. I have four more to do and will try lubing them.
Hope this helps