Preparing a 1991 Scamp 16 - Page 42 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-19-2013, 08:37 PM   #575
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I suspect that you are correct Jim, the outputs probably current share. However at least so far it has not been an issue.

Generally we're charging at night, usually two phones and the tablet. All 3 are always 100% in the morning. The tablet rarely drops below 50% in a single day and seems to be pretty energy efficient. The phones not so energy efficient. Of course the phones are blasting on 4G and the tablet on 3G because it's on our wireless 3G hotspot.

We also charge our Nooks on them but they rarely require charging; it seems they are charged no more than once a week.

Our little speaker also charges off a USB port but that's only necessary about once a week.

Generally I'm very happy with them. The individual chargers are unnecessary now.
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:27 PM   #576
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Television Mounting.

This is a reply to a PM that requires pictures and I don't know how to put pictures in a PM.

I hang my TV from a hook that mounts on a piece of wood on the back of the TV using the 4 standard mounting locations.

The TV hangs from this hook.

A bungee cord that can be seen in the corner of the picture. In my case the bungee goes from the curtain hook to the back vents of the TV. I use this bungee to level the TV. It simply allows me to modify the TV's angle, it's not structural.

When traveling I flip the back cushion towards the table, place the TV face down on the dinette 's bottom cushion and drop a bed pillow on it leaving all wires connected. I suspect the TV would hang well from the hook but I don't want it bouncing. We've done this with our flat screens for 10 years and they've survived well on all kinds of roads.



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I have a second hook like this mounted over the dinette in case I wanted to locate the TV in a different location other than the foot of the bed. In 3 years we have not used it.
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:42 PM   #577
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Chair for Reading

Norm,

I am just reading through all of your messages and came across one regarding not having a comfortable position for reading in the camper. I had the same issue when forced inside because it got cool, dark, or too many bugs, etc. This is what I found to read and draw for hours with no difficulty. Photos are attached.

I don't know the manufacturer of the chair because I am one of those who has at least 50 arrest warrents outstanding for removing the tags from furniture. They are not light since they have a steel frame but have a very comfortable padded seat and back. What makes it great is that the front legs have a lock on them and they can be raised up to any angle to give support on the back thighs. It also reclines a lot. Between the two actions, it is a virtual Scamp Lazy Boy.

I bought the chair at the local Ranch & Farm store called Murdochs here in Denver, but have also seen them in Illinois with a farm store name on them. That may be their target market. They are about $60.
It would probably work for both you and Ginny at the same time. Just flip the dining table up and secure it to the back wall. Then put a chair in the center space and face it forward having a padded board across the front end to support your feet. Ginny could sit facing backwards and put her feet on the padded board also.

I am able to read for long periods and be very comfortable. In fact, it's easy to fall asleep in them.

p.s. you mentioned in another post that you had figured out a way to improve the silverware drawer. Would you please send a photo of what you did. That drawer has to be one of the most irritating things thought of by man.
Attached Thumbnails
Chair 2.jpg   Chair 3.jpg  

Chair 5.jpg  
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:15 PM   #578
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Jim

Thanks for the chair info. I like farm stores and will keep my eyes open.

I'll post some pictures of my drawer. Basically I use the existing drawer box and add a center roller in the rear that runs in a drawer track. These are available at the big box stores. The front of the track is supported by the front of the cabinet and requires no holes thru the fiberglass. The rear of the drawer track is attached to a post I added.

I'll take a picture and post it in the morning. It did require me to open the hole and get rid of Scamp's aluminum channels that were atteched to the bottom of the stove, really a small job.

I thing some others have even made the drawer deeper.
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Old 10-25-2013, 05:05 PM   #579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
Jim

Thanks for the chair info. I like farm stores and will keep my eyes open.

I'll post some pictures of my drawer. Basically I use the existing drawer box and add a center roller in the rear that runs in a drawer track. These are available at the big box stores. The front of the track is supported by the front of the cabinet and requires no holes thru the fiberglass. The rear of the drawer track is attached to a post I added.

I'll take a picture and post it in the morning. It did require me to open the hole and get rid of Scamp's aluminum channels that were atteched to the bottom of the stove, really a small job.

I thing some others have even made the drawer deeper.
Norm, do you think it would have been possible to add two side rollers to roll in the existing channels? I haven't looked at ours recently and she's not home right now or I'd take a look myself. Do you have any recollection?
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Old 10-25-2013, 05:56 PM   #580
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Silverware Drawer Modifications.

We have made three modifications to our drawer. We have added a lock, replaced the front and changed the slide mechanism, probably the most important. Under Modifications in 'Preparing a 1991 Scamp' go to post 273 and 165 for a couple of hints.

Our drawer was mounted to the bottom of the stove, suspended from 2 aluminum channels. I began by pulling out the drawer, removing it's bottom wooden stop.

I lifted the stove top and removed the four screws holing the aluminum. I removed the wooden blocks from the drawer that ran in the aluminum.

I then opened the drawer's opening in the fiberglass, increasing the height of the opening to 4 5/8 inches, taking some off the bottom and some off the top.

The bottom cut provides a mounting point for two rollers and the center track.


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See the rollers at each corner and the center track in the middle. The rear of the center track attaches to a post. In my case this post references off the side pantry's wall.


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Pantry below drawer

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See post in back attached to pantry wall.

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Wheel that rides in track on back of drawer. Wheel, rollers and track all come as a kit from Lowes or Home Depot.

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Drawer and lock


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One of rollers.

I added a lock because the drawer opens easier.
When I cut fiber glass I outline the hole to be cut with blue painters tape to prevent scratches and provide a guideline.

I'm sure I forgot something just ask.

Steve. It may be possible to use the existing aluminum if you have some wheels that could mount to the sides of the drawer in place of Scamp's wooden blocks
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Old 10-25-2013, 07:25 PM   #581
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Norm,

Now I get what you meant by a center roller. Thank you very much for the information so I can take care of that irritating drawer problem.

By the way, with so many storage nooks and crannies, you may reach a point where it becomes difficult to remember where you put somethings. It reminds me of a 3M commercial a few years ago for PostIt pads. I showed a squirrel in his tree house with stickies posted all over reminding him of where he had burried his nuts.

The funny part is, That is one of the few commercials I have ever been able to relate to!
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Old 10-25-2013, 07:47 PM   #582
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Jim, We do have a lot of defined storage areas.

We have 10 overhead cabinets, 3 overhead shelves, 2 bathroom shelves, 12 drawers/under counter cabinets, 1 shelved closet, 1 clothes hamper, 1 bumper box with 2 fence post storage units, 5 under floor storage units, 10 plastic wall baskets, a wine storage rack, a spice rack, under water tank dinette storage, under dinette heater and crock pot storage plus a few other hidden storage areas.

They work because they are defined, so different from home. Everything has a defined place making life really easy. Every year we do something to make storage better.

We don't carry a duffle bag with all our clothes in it. We have defined areas for types of clothes. We don't carry coolers or really store stuff on the floor of the trailer. Outside of remounting the TV, about a minute, we open the door, unlock drawers and cabinets and are ready to live.

This way of living came from our first RV, a motorhome. We had never camped before so I sat down and made lists of things we needed and where each thing would 'live' in the motorhome. It worked well knowing where everything was. We have no lists for the trailer because know we both recognize how easy it makes life in a small volume. We're typically gone almost 8 months a year and being organized makes it easier and fun.

You should see the look on Ginny's face when we come home to our beach cottage. The shear volume, (it's really small) and the relative disorder disturbs her for days.

I say everyone should start life in a small RV. They would afterwards live more organized lives and realize how little they need to buy to be happy.

Only two things seem to really count in life...health and relationships.

Organization is a key. No Post it's needed.
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:04 AM   #583
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Storage thought

With more seriousness, many people consider removing water tanks, opting for no propane heater or in the case of the former owner of our rig, removal of the hot water tank,,,.

I suggest that in reality there are many opportunities in a small trailer to improve and add to the storage space of fiberglass trailers. It does take a little time and effort but opportunities abound to add storage space or improve access to space.
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Old 11-03-2013, 05:40 PM   #584
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Smartphone Clock.
We use our smartphone for a clock at night. We have 3 hooks that the phone slides into.

It's necessary for the charger to be connected.

The color of the numerals and the brightness are adjustable. As well it can perform an alarm function.

The shelf it mounted to on is over the foot of the bed.




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Old 11-09-2013, 03:43 PM   #585
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Bought a Fastec Lock to replace the scamp standard on Amazon, $26 plus shipping. It has a bolt as well as the traditional lock.

I'll have to wait until I have a handy saber saw to cut a hole in the door for it.
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Old 11-10-2013, 07:00 AM   #586
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Norm, do you mind posting the part number? Or model number? Fastec has several locks on Amazon and I don't want to get the wrong one. Thanks!
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:37 AM   #587
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Fastec Lock Link

Amazon.com: Travel Trailer Lock, White: Sports & Outdoors

It looks like it was $29 and not $26.

It seems very substantial and more functional than the existing lock. David B. has pictures of his installation.
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Old 12-26-2013, 04:13 PM   #588
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Battery charging wire

Hi Norm,

Thanks for your description of getting power to the rear of your TV for charging your camper battery while driving using a 7-way plug.

If I understand correctly, from there you connect a male 7-way plug wire running to the camper. You tap in a wire from the center terminal wire to the camper battery for charging. The remaining wires go to their respective areas for lights, heating, etc.

My question is: The center male blade of the plug would be hot at all times even when not connected to the TV, since it is connected to the camper battery. Do you do something to prevent it from coming into contact with the hitch or other metal objects when not connected to the TV? Do you have a switch back there also or disconnect the wire from the battery when not in use, or am I really missing something here?

Thanks,
Jim
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