Preparing a 1991 Scamp 16 - Page 44 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-27-2013, 11:29 AM   #603
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So glad I asked!

Norm,

Now I understand. Either the center or one of the other male poles is constantly hot as I thought, and that some guys use protection and some don't.

Thanks, I am so glad we had that little chat!

Jim
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Old 12-27-2013, 12:31 PM   #604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Borrego Dave View Post
It is the same way plumbing fittings get their names for use of applications.
Plumbing- all kinds - is one thing, electrical's another. (Though some kinds of "plumbing" do require a certain.... "electricity" to make the connection.)

I remain in Glenn's "the car's the boy" camp. And when Glenn and I agree on something- that's something!
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Old 12-27-2013, 01:22 PM   #605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post


But...this car-end one has WAY more sticky-outies. Isn't that a sign of "maleness" in the plug world?''

Plumbing- all kinds - is one thing, electrical's another. (Though some kinds of "plumbing" do require a certain.... "electricity" to make the connection.)


omg! Yup Francesca the "sticky-outies" are indeed one of the sign of "maleness" or at least thats what I was told back in the day when I got the talk... but you never know things have changed a little in the world of norms since these days.
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Old 01-03-2014, 08:37 PM   #606
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Now all is clear!!

After further investigation regarding the orientation of trailer plugs, it turns out that just about everyone can claim they were correct about something regarding the different types.

When a 4 or 5 terminal flat-plug is used, the female end is at the back of the towing vehicle and the male plug is on the trailer. There are no hot terminals on the male plug, therefore it doesn't need to be protected from contacting other metal objects.

When a 6 or 7 round-type plug is used, the orientation of the plugs is reversed. The male plug is at the back of the towing vehicle enclosed in a plastic holder with a spring cap, and the female plug is on the trailer.

The blades of the male plug are recessed into the holder and it has a protective spring cap. See photo in Franchesca's post. Therefore, any hot terminals are prevented from coming into accidental contact with other metal objects.

The female plug (see photo in Glenn Baglo's post) is on the trailer. Even though it may have a hot terminal, it can just hang down and it does not have to be protected from the elements or from shorting against anything. There are no exposed terminals it can short against. Hence no additional protection is needed.

So the answer to my original question regarding protection of hot male terminal is irrelevant. The terminal does not have to be protected from shorting, when the correct orientation of plugs is used, because there are no exposed terminals. The male terminals on the TV are enclosed in the holder, and the female plug on the trailer has no exposed terminals to contact anything.

Ahh So....
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Old 04-17-2014, 06:17 PM   #607
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Lock Replacement

I replaced my Scamp's lock with a motorhome style lock, not an easy replacement but works great.

If anyone would like my used but relatively new Scamp lock, send me a PM and I'll send it to you.
Attached Thumbnails
20140417_170602 (2).jpg  
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Old 04-17-2014, 08:53 PM   #608
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Nice mod!
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Old 04-17-2014, 10:25 PM   #609
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Norm, were you able to use the original striker plate? Do you have any pictures of the install? Looks really nice.
Dave & Paula
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Old 04-18-2014, 06:34 AM   #610
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Dave, I was not able to use the original striker plate. I did use the provided striker plate.

I have a home built screen door and I mounted the striker plate off one of the side supports of the screen door. It looks a little 'kludgie' but it woks absolutely great. I plan to dress the striker plate up today to improve the appearance.

After cutting the opening I painted the wood core and covered the wood surfaces with a thin coat of Lexal.

The door had been difficult to close with the new door seals but now it's a easy with a true positive lock feel and sound. Thanks for your pictures.

It was hard to get the lock thru the cut out, actually had to disassemble it.

I will post some pictures tonight.

Looking forward to your Snoozy mods.
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Old 04-18-2014, 01:51 PM   #611
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Striker Plate

Dave,
First Picture is Lock Engaged in Striker Plat.
The striker plate extends off the Screen Door's side support. (Note Screen Door removed for installation.) Four capped wood screws hold two short aluminum straps, each with three holes. Two holes are used to screw thru a small piece of 1/4 inch plywood and into the side screen door support. The third screw attaches to the supplied striker plate.

The piece of plywood presses up against the striker plate's bent stop on the back edge of the opening stiffening the assembly. I also cut a shallow groove for the curved back edge of the striker plate so it sits flat on the plywood.


Second Picture is Striker plate front side.
I had to cut a small notch in the edge of the fiberglass to allow the dead bolt to function.


Third Picture is the back of the supplied Striker Plate.
Note that the screws that hold the striker plate to it's two supporting aluminum bars are intentionally long. Their length 'traps' the striker plate to the front side of the fiberglass door frame (hard to see in the picture) while the plywood traps the back tab of the opening in the striker plate against the inside of the fiberglass opening. (Note I still have the holes to fill from the former striker plate.)


Fourth Picture is the eventual final view of the Finished Striker plate.
I plan to add a piece of wood trim behind the striker plate just for cosmetic purposes. (Note in this picture just held on by white Duct tape to get an 'explaining' picture.)

Lastly thank you Dave for doing this modification on your trailer. You are my inspiration for the lock and new door trim.

I did not take a picture of the inside of the lock. However I did have to cut the opening for the lock a little larger than I wanted in order to fit it thru the cut hole. As well I had to disassemble the lock to get it in. To keep the lock from sliding in the hole I put wooden stops in from the back side to appropriately center it and preven tlock motion. The front flanges were big enough to cover the slightly larger hole required for me to get it mounted.

The lock was $35 from Amazon including shipping and works very well.

Glad to answer any additional questions about this modification or any others about this thread.

Norm
Attached Thumbnails
Lock Engaged.jpg   LOck and Striker Plate.jpg  

Back of Striker Plate.jpg   Trimout Temporary.jpg  

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Old 04-18-2014, 02:36 PM   #612
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Thanks for the pictures & explanations. When you fill the original striker plate holes, you could also fiberglass or fill where your striker plate wood trim is, then sand, & paint white to match.
Dave & Paula
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Old 04-18-2014, 03:19 PM   #613
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Dave.

It definitely will be white. I'm a white fanatic, the bottom of my trailer, the frame, the floor of all cabinets, and the floor where ever I've had easy access are white, event the cutout for the lock.
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Old 05-12-2014, 05:13 AM   #614
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Ceiling Repair

I had about a 5 foot piece of marine fabric, lovingly called rat fur by some, that was drooping, After 23 years the adhesive had let go.

I purchased a few cans of Loctite Power Grab in the spray container and applied it to the back of the fabric and pressed it up against the fiber glass.

I held it in place with a piece of thin (1/4 inch) plywood supported by two 1x3s between plywood and floor.

It has been up for about 2 months and really looks good showing no signs of seperation.

Typically I gained access for application at the seams by removing the seam covering strip. In a couple of spots I just cut a slit in the fabric and stuck the nozzle of the Power Grab aplicator in the slit.

The Power Grab is not inexpensive but was easy to use .... and seems to have worked well.
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Old 05-22-2014, 06:26 AM   #615
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Unintended consequences

As you may know I make up and take down our bed every day. Besides the exercise of it all though not much, I was wondering as I took the bed down why it's worked so well (for us).

To me it works well because we have an overhead cabinet above the bed that takes the two blankets and sheets.

Having a handy place to store things right above the bed makes a difference plus they are out of sight and out of the way. It's less than a 5 minute job.

I should add that we use a 2 piece foam topper on our seat cushions. I store that behind the back of the front couch.

Our front couch is a little different from most in that we removed the plywood backing from the couch, making it lighter.

We have been considering alternatives to the foam topper and will probably implement one next year.

Part of the fun of the trailer living is continual making small improvements, after all it is the place we spend most of our time.

Last night we hears a comedian at the Newfoundland Music Festival. SHe was joking about the difficulty of living with her partner in 800 square feet "but it's on the subway line". Ginny and I smiled at each other knowing how happily we live in 90 square feet.

Norm
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Old 07-02-2014, 01:37 PM   #616
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Name: Carl
Trailer: 1994 Scamp 16
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Preparing a 1991 Scamp 16

Quote:
Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
As you may know I make up and take down our bed every day. Besides the exercise of it all though not much, I was wondering as I took the bed down why it's worked so well (for us).

To me it works well because we have an overhead cabinet above the bed that takes the two blankets and sheets.

Having a handy place to store things right above the bed makes a difference plus they are out of sight and out of the way. It's less than a 5 minute job.

I should add that we use a 2 piece foam topper on our seat cushions. I store that behind the back of the front couch.

Our front couch is a little different from most in that we removed the plywood backing from the couch, making it lighter.

We have been considering alternatives to the foam topper and will probably implement one next year.

Part of the fun of the trailer living is continual making small improvements, after all it is the place we spend most of our time.

Last night we hears a comedian at the Newfoundland Music Festival. SHe was joking about the difficulty of living with her partner in 800 square feet "but it's on the subway line". Ginny and I smiled at each other knowing how happily we live in 90 square feet.

Norm
Norm,
I did not read all of the over 600 comments! When I have time I will go back and read all of this thread. But, thank you for pointing out this thread! I have looking at Casita's, but after reading through most of this thread and am going to give Scamp's a much closer look!
My only question is this, how much would you charge me to take your course in creating more storage in a Scamp? You are a Houdini in finding way to add storage in a Scamp! You get an A+!
Thanks you for pointing out this thread! I have never seem a Casita decked out with this much storage!
Thanks for sharing with all of us!
Carl
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