Preparing a 1991 Scamp 16 - Page 46 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-08-2014, 03:10 PM   #631
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
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The bumper box comes from Walmart, $18. I painted it white.

The clothes line is made of one inch white pic pipe.

I screwed a "C" clamp to the outside of the trainer's beam just before it T's into the bumper. Picture taken from under the trailer.

A piece of white pole slips into the C clamp. It does not slide down, stopped by a stainless screw in the side of the pipe.

When the pipe is inserted it is held by the clamp and leans against the bumper. A like pole goes in the other side.

Hope those pictures tell the story. It's a very inexpensive solution. If I missed something or somethings not understood let me know.

These two poles are connected be a third pole that bridges the two side poles. These are not glues connections.

An islet bolt goes thru the pole. A clothes line goes between the islets the clothes line keeps the side poles from separating.
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1407527663699.jpg   1407528407757.jpg  

1407528433544.jpg   1407528489349.jpg  

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Old 08-08-2014, 03:40 PM   #632
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Name: Wendy Lee
Trailer: Scamp 13' Standard
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Does tv mean tow vehicle, Honda? How did you secure bumper box? I thought you were going to take pics tomorrow, sir. There was no rush as I respect your time. But Please don't be offended and try to understand if I keep posting and talking up your mods!


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Old 08-08-2014, 03:46 PM   #633
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Bumper Box

I've mounted the bumper box two different ways over the years.

First the box comes from Walmarts and is about 1.5 x 1.5 x 3 feet. I use it to carry our water hose, power cord, wooden leveling, blocks, water filter, pressure regulator, hammer and small tools. The bumper box and the posts get all of the dirty stuff out of the trailer but not heavy stuff.

I begin by removing the spare tire. I than mount three right angle brackets to the bumper so the tops of the brackets are flat to the top of the bumper. One bracket is at each end of the bumper box and the third is in the middle. I shorten the ends of the portion of the right angle bracket that hangs below the bumper. The box is screwed to the bumper at each rear corner and screwed to the right angle brackets.

Below the bumper box are two hollow plastic fence posts, each post is 5"x5"x 4'. The posts are attached thru the end right angle brackets and thru the bumper box.

I use the inner post for the clothes line and any other 4' and under long thing.

I use outer post for a long sewer hose. I have drilled holes in the bottom to allow it to drain and dry as I drive. We carry two sewer hoses. A short one in the front and a longer one in the post. They can be connected together and allow us to dump when the sewer connections if distant.

Each post has end caps that are held in place by wing screws.

These instructions are not enough to build one but if you decide to do it I'll provide more details with pictures.

For example the box comes from Walmarts with a back hinge. The hinge must be removed (easy) and the top cut to fit the spare tire. The box comes with two front latches. Without the hinge it's necessary to add 2 small side latches.

Note the bumper box is not water proof but nothing in there has been damaged by rain water. The little set of tools we carry in the box are in a small, sealed box. I have drilled a couple of holes in the bumper box to allow it to drain as well.

The material for the clothes line is probably under $10 and takes a fraction of a day to assemble. The bumper box takes about a day. All stuff available from Walmarts, Lowes and Home Depot.

By the way returning the tire to the back of the trailer further serves to hold the box.

Again if any one wants to do it let me know.
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Old 08-08-2014, 03:48 PM   #634
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Picture shows end view of bumper box. Note brackets, added latch, .
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Old 08-08-2014, 04:11 PM   #635
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Swift Key

Often I send pictures from my phone and the phone tries to help with spelling and speed typing, sometimes I miss its improper corrections, "Ts to TV". Our company left a little early so I had time before supper.
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Old 08-08-2014, 05:15 PM   #636
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Name: Wendy Lee
Trailer: Scamp 13' Standard
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Hi Honda,

I am interested very much in this bumper box mod, and you are correct. Some of what you said I don't understand.

I would also need to know the size of the bolts, and nuts and washers, and angle aluminum you used. I couldn't see the side latches in your pic that you mention.

Regular pilot point drill bits, have a whole set. Would also need to know what you cut box with. I have a versatile dremel with many cutting wheels, bits and other attachments. What you use box for is exactly what I want to do with it. How'd you figure out exactly where to cut hole in top of box as well? Imagine you "slide" box top up over spare tire to get access to inside?

But please, at your pleasure and convenience. You may also pm me here if you wish.

Many Thanks,

Wendy




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Old 08-08-2014, 05:42 PM   #637
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PM me and l'll give you my email address and phone number to use when you have questions. I'll attempt to walk you thru it. I'll check to see that Walmarts still sells the Bumper Box.

Actually I have a box in the cellar that will let me take pictures of an uncut box. (We were camped in Seminole Canyon in TX and a Scamp owner (small world) gave me a brand new one.

We'll begin with the 3 L Brackets and the Box. We can add the posts at the end if you want them.)

The top cover is easy to cut. I used a saber saw but just about anything will do, it's soft. It will take a little while because I'll be providing instructions piece meal. We'll begin by preparing the 3 L brackets and mounting them to the Bumper.

I'll give L Bracket instructions with pictures in the morning.

The top cover comes off easily. Unsnap the 4 latches and it slides forward.
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Old 08-09-2014, 07:45 AM   #638
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Before you start.

Wendy,

Before beginning you should see if your local Walmarts has the box that's the basis for this project. The box is made by Contico, name stamped in the top. It is 31" long x 18" wide and 14" deep, I bought my first one 7 years ago and the price was $18.
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Bumper Box 1.jpg  
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Old 08-09-2014, 08:13 AM   #639
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Mounting the Brackets

Wendy,

Assuming you can find the box.

Note the box only comes in black, I painted mine white, keeping it black makes it easier to maintain.

Purchase 3 L brackets, 10" x 12”, brackets come in black and white. Available at Lowes, Home Depot and probably any hardware store. The following link shows the bracket.

10 in. x 12 in. White Shelf Bracket-15254 at The Home Depot

Prepare the 3 brackets as follows. Cut all the short sides to 3.5” length. Cut the long sides of two to 11.5” and the third to 10”. You can use a hacksaw or a saber saw with a metal blade or anything that will cut through sheet metal. File the edges to remove burrs if you like. After cutting the ends, spray paint the cut ends to prevent rust.

Find the center of the bumper and mount the short bracket in the center. This should be in the center of the tire. The center bracket is shorter because the box is indented in the center. Make sure the top of the L bracket surface is flat compared to the top of the bumper.

If you have trouble keeping the bracket level with the top of the bumper, you can mount the bracket to a board, about an inch from the edge of a board with a couple of wood screws. Lie the board on the top of the bumper. Clamp the board to the bumper with a clamp. Use a permanent marker to mark the screw hole.

Use a small drill to make a starter hole in the center of your mark. Than use a larger drill sufficient to make a clearance hole for a #8 screw. Use a 1” stainless 8-32 screw, secure the screw with a lock/star washer and #8 nut. You will need 6 screws, nuts, star washers to mount the brackets. You will need 8 more sets to mount the box to the bumper and brackets.

This bracket needs a second screw near the bottom of the bracket through the lower portion of the bumper. You will need to drill through the bracket and bumper. Make sure the bracket is flat to the bumper because it can rotate on a single screw.

Locate another bracket 13.5 inches to the right and one 13.5 inches to the left of the center bracket.

After modifying the box you will be ready to mount it. If you're still interested, after reading this post I'll describe the modifications required to the box.
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Old 08-09-2014, 08:33 AM   #640
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That sounds fantastic! I will pick up the box and I believe u know exactly what you are speaking of. Instructions piece by piece would suit me fine.

The brackets on your bumper look sort of like shelf brackets to me? I thought of that 90 degree aluminum angle bracket you can get at Home Depot. I think they're stiffer than shelf brackets and come pre- drilled with a couple holes and hardware.

But I'll get the box from Wally first. I think my dremel will be great for this job

Cheers Honda,

Wendy


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Old 08-09-2014, 08:39 AM   #641
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Wendy,

I used shelf brackets, You can use any thing you want. However they should reach to nearly the front of the box. When you buy a box you will see they have little pads in the corners, like box feet.

Shelf brackets do come with holes though we cut off the end holes. As well shelf brackets are pretty strong because the stamping provides thickness. Since the box and contents are light I'm sure a lot of alternatives will work.
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Old 08-09-2014, 08:43 AM   #642
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Wendy,

I have mounted a bumper box on my son's 1977 Scamp 13. I am assuming that your bumper is similar to ours, an L shaped piece of steel.
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Old 08-09-2014, 09:35 AM   #643
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Bumper Box cuts and mounting

Box Modifications.
Begin by removing the hinge. The hinge can be clearly seen in the following pictures. You can pull the pin out off that holds the hinge together or you can simply cut off the nubs that hold the pin. These nubs need to go because they keep the box from mounting flush to the trailer.

With these removed you need to cut a section from the rear of the box to allow the box to fit under the tire’s mounting screws. I have marked the region to be cut with blue painters tape in the following picture. Note that the hinge is just above the cut and runs the length of the box. I guessed at the depth of the cut but the box must be located below your tire;s mounting screws.

Once the box has been cut it can be mounted. Center the box over the bumper and brackets. Make sure the box is as close to the trailer’s rear wall as possible. I did one corner and than bent the box so it’s back conformed to the trailer. It is fairly ply-able and the back is not curved very much in the box area..

Drill a hole through the two rear corners of the box. Mark the location of these holes on the bumper using the box as a template. (Be sure to drill one corner hole first, bend the box into position and locate the next hole location with the box under tension.) Drill clearance holes through the bumper. Mount the box with a 1 ½” stainless screw, a top flat washer a bottom star washer and nut in each corner. (A 1” screw may be long enough.)

Lie under the trailer and drill through the bracket and box into the box at front of each bracket. Use the screw, washers, and nuts. Repeat the process at the rear of the bracket The front corner holes should be in the corner pads of the box.

Remount the tire. The presence of the box forces the tire a little bit away from the trailer’s rear wall but the nuts are just able to go on.

Cutting the Top Cover.
The following picture shows where to cut on the top cover. This should fit your tire, If it does not fit on the sides trim a little more off. Use painters tape to provided a cutting guide. Note that I round the two corners when cutting indicated by the triangular corners of blue tape.

Also the long blue tape section aligns with a rib that runs across the center of the cover. I did not cut that rib out. To preserve the rib you may want to make this cut from the inside.

Put your cover on the tire and test the fit of the box’s top cover. Trip if necessary. You can use the front latches to hold it in place.

The next step is to add two small side latches.

I originally embedded these two pictures but that did not work for some reason. As well the cost of this project was less than $40 in 2007.
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BBox top cut.jpg   BBox back cut.jpg  

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Old 08-09-2014, 10:03 AM   #644
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Adding the Latches

With the elimination of the hinge, a latch is needed on each side to ensure the top stays on, The following picture shows my latch. They are fairly small but just about anything that you can mount will do. The following link is to an example. I’m sure these will work because they have a long clasp.

4 Set Stainless Spring Loaded Toggle Case Box Chest Trunk Latch Catch Clamp Clip - Cabinet And Furniture Latches - Amazon.com

The picture shows my clasp. The top portion is mounted with wood screws. The bottom portion with through screws.

For those with a sharp eye you’ll see a tall threaded rod in the lower corner of the picture. This is about 9” tall. It normally holds two 3 ½” square x 4” long wooden blocks. The blocks have a through hole through their sides and slip over the rod for travel. They are used to support the rear jacks. This came with the trailer and added by the previous owner.

Wendy, If you want to add the posts under neath the bumper box let me know and I'll extend the thread. Mainly they attach to the bottom of the box and the brackets. Holes are drilled through the box, brackets and pots and screws used to attach them.

The end caps are off the shelf. I deform the bottom of the end cap with a little heat and drill a hole through the top edge into the post and use a screw with a wing top to hold it on.
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Bbox latch.jpg  
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