Preparing a 1991 Scamp 16 - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-16-2011, 10:53 AM   #71
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All your mod's look/are great, Norm. Having said that, have you had your trailer weighed and have you checked your tongue weight? You are adding several wooden cabinets and shelves that will hold contents all of which will add additional weight which can affect your overhaul towing. Something to think about....
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Old 06-16-2011, 11:11 AM   #72
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I haven't weighed it yet but before we started I weighed it. It weighed 2045 including 220 #s of tongue weight.

Our goal is to keep it around 2500#s. If we stay at 2500 #s that will be 300#s lighter than the Casita 16 we towed this winter.

We actually weigh our trailer every year because we tend to add something every year.
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Old 06-16-2011, 06:32 PM   #73
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Norm , One thing I've thought about depending on what type of box you may mount on the rear. Is to mount the spare tire flat on the top of the box, or I suppose it could be mounted on the bottom as well. Just a thought. Tim
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Old 06-18-2011, 08:59 AM   #74
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Rock Guard Mounting

One Scamp deficiency is the front window's rock guard. To get light thru the front window you have to remove the rock guard where as our previous trailer had support arms on the guard and could be set to shade the window while letting light in.

At our first Egg Rally we saw at least one clever solution but I could not remember how it was exceuted so I came up with this solution.

It consists of two pieces of plastic pipe with a bungee cord running thru the center of each pipe. Each end of the bungee has a hook on it. The purpose of the bungee cord is to provide positive tension.

The top end of the pipe simply fits in the tensioning loop of the locking mechanism. The top end of the bungee cord attaches to the guard's lock's lock hole.

I drilled a hole thru the belly band and stuck a 3" screw thru the belly band. The top side of the screw has a nut on it and so does the bottom side.

The plastic pipe sits on the head of the screw. The bottom end of the bungee cord attaches to the bottom of the screw. The screws are embedded in window caulk.

You'll note that another bungee cord runs across the top surface of the rockguard from the top catch to the guard's locking mechanism. The purpose of this 'not too clever' bungee is to keep the rock guard from lifting off the top latch points. Hopefully at some point I'll come up with a clever solution for this eliminating these two bungee cords.

In my Bounder group I was known as Bungee Boy. In my mind Bungees are right up their with Duct Tape.

Norm
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Old 06-18-2011, 01:52 PM   #75
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Norm, I use wire ties to keep the top from accidently lifting off. Granted they'd need to be cut off if I want to remove the guard, but I don't see that as being a problem. Joy A. uses tiny stainless steel clamps. I have a BUNCH of wire ties, so this works for me. I guess this is what you're talking about?
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Old 06-18-2011, 02:35 PM   #76
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I assume you leave the tywraps there all the time. What do you support it with when you flip it up?

Are your brackets stainless?

Norm
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Old 06-18-2011, 03:26 PM   #77
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Yes, the wire ties are permanent until they break or I cut them off. I made supports ala Joy A. which are identical to these pictures posted by Patrick: Gravel Guard Supports Joy posted a schematic further down in the topic.

No the brackets are mild steel, standard from Scamp. (stainless bolts and nuts) I used spray wax on the Scamp hardware before I mounted it to the trailer. It's been about 5 years now and nary a hint of rust. I DO hit them with wax occasionally. Rust and gelcoat do not make good neighbors!
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Old 06-18-2011, 04:49 PM   #78
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I used very small metal hose clamps to hold mine on and they stay in place and allow me to lift it up to put the holders on. Used them for 4 years and havent had one break. Please note the holder design idea was borrowed from Joy!
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Old 06-18-2011, 06:44 PM   #79
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Thanks Donna and Carol,

I probably should replace my latches, they are beginning to rust and have been painted over. I'll try one of the solutions for keeping it on the top.

Norm
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Old 06-19-2011, 01:07 PM   #80
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Donna, have your replaced your rock guard hardware? It looks pretty new compared to mine which I have been thinking of replacing. The only reason I have not replaced it is I am unclear as to how to actually do it without messing it up. I know they are just rivited but I wonder about what happens on the inside as I suspect the originals were done prior to the rat fur going up on the inside. Do the rivits somehow just connect to the inside of the fiberglass and nothing special needs to be done to avoid it coming right through the rat fur making them visable from the inside?
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Old 06-19-2011, 01:17 PM   #81
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Carol, the gravel guard and hardware were all put on about five years ago. Prior to that time, there wasn't any. As I mentioned, I hit it with a spray (shoe) wax once in a while and I think that keeps it from rusting. If I was going to do it again, I'd bite the bullet and buy stainless fasteners. Wish I would have done that to begin with!

I just drilled the holes and used rivets (on the body) and obviously the rat fur was already on. I have drilled out rivets and replaced (outside stove vet) and there wasn't any problems... I was careful. When drill out the rivets, they'll either totally come out, or fall between the shell and the insulation.
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Old 06-19-2011, 01:51 PM   #82
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Thanks Donna. Where would one find the stainless fasterners? I cant seem to find any on the Scamp website.

Sounds like if I use a short rivit it will be fine. I am pretty comfortable with drilling them out and replacing them. Just wondered how one avoids the rat fur getting attached to it as the other items I have replaced where not in such a visable area and the rat fur had actually been cut away from the area so there was no chance of the rivit attaching to anything but the fiberglass.
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Old 06-19-2011, 02:02 PM   #83
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Carol, here's some ... I think these are actually cheaper than Scamp and it's stainless! Stainless Steel Draw Latch
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Old 06-19-2011, 02:11 PM   #84
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Thanks Donna.
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