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Old 07-27-2013, 05:33 PM   #501
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Mike it's certainly not going to fit under the dinette, just a little tall. It is very thin. Tomorrow I'll take a look about.
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:13 AM   #502
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Storing the Endless Fan

Most of my storage space has been divided up into shelves and a pullout pantry. The only space left where it will fit is in the center compartment under the front couch. There is space for me to put it at the rear of that compartment.

In other Scamps like mine it could fit in the cabinet under the stove or in the large hanging closet. My hanging closet is filled with an AC unit at floor level, a hamper above that and shelves the rest of the way but it could be a place for the fan for others.

There is a tall closet under the sink as well, ours is divided into four shelves for pots and pans.

In reality, we keep our fan out most of the time because we are usually in warmer climates except during our spring trips to Newfoundland and Alaska. When we travel we typically just lay the fan or electric heater down under the dinette.
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:25 AM   #503
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Attachment to bumper?

Quote:
Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
Double thanks Donna

Norm

P.S. Adding a rear bumper box 32x14x14" for hoses, power cords and blocks. Supporting it with a 5x5 plastic fence pole that will screw to bumper. The fence post is hollow and will hold a spare sewer hose. (It seems extra sewer hose is often needed as is a support for the box.) Pictures Monday or Tuesday.

The tire will remained attached to the standard tire mounts. The top cover of the plastic box is cutout for the tire, leaving the bottom 40% of the tire in the box.
Norm, your mods are an inspiration. I need to add a bumper box similar to yours and was going to use a bolt-on receiver hitch and platform cargo carrier - your setup looks to be much lighter and of course more cost-effective. Question is, how did you attach the fence post cover to the bumper? You say you "screwed it on," but with what hardware and technically speaking, in what manner? I.e., if the fence post is a hollow tube, how did you reach inside it to screw into it? Or did you use brackets? Do you drill into the metal bumper itself? Thanks
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:41 AM   #504
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Brandagor,
I have 25 visitors today but will post some pictures for you in the morning

I bought my box at Walmart. It was about 18 dollars.

Remove the cover from the Bumper box. In my case it required pulling a long pin out. I cut the pin holders off with an electric sabers saw after removing the pin.

I removed the spare tire and centered the box on it. Mark the ends of the box on the bumper. It may be necessary to notch the back of the box a little around the lower spare screw. When mounting the box be sure it is firmly against the trailer and on the bumper.

I began by mounting 3 18" right angle L brackets to the bumper. Before doing this I cut the short side so it was the length of the bumper. I may of cut the long side so it didn't stick out beyond the box the outside brackets are mounted so the bracket ends up under the front foot tab of the box. I get underneath the mounted brakes with an electric drill and put a clearance hole thru the brakes and came for screws. I don't the same thing in the rear corners of the box from the top sidevdrilling thru the bumper.

Since there is no center foot on the box you may need to add a 1/4" spacer between the bottom of the box and the center L bracket. I used painted plywood. Also any cut edge on the brackets was painted. Use lock washers on all screws. Make sure all brackets are flat with the top of the bumper.

The fence posts mount to the bottom of the L brackets before the box goes on permanently. I put four screws thru the bracket and the posts. To download this I held the posts up from the ground side and drilled thru the center of the u profile L bracket and put screws and nuts thru. The screws should be close to the posts corners to prevent interference with any thing you put in the fence posts. If you use one for a sewer hosedrill some drain holes in the bottom.

Please read this and don't hesitate to ask questions. I'll read it after our company leaves and attempt to improve it but it should get you started.
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:08 PM   #505
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Geez, Norm...if you didn't do such good work you wouldn't be so busy! Thanks - this helps a lot, and after scouring this site and reading more of your posts I think I have a good sense of how to put this together. It certainly is a popular mod! The boxes attached to the undercarriage are also very intriguing - good of you to share your ideas and describe them so thoroughly. Now, if I could just hire you...

Thanks again & Happy Trails
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Old 08-23-2013, 02:16 PM   #506
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Home built Screen door

I began by building a bi-fold screen door. Followed by two side members and a top member.

The couch side wooden member is curved to fit the trailer. The cabinet side member is a 1x2. These two are screwed to the cabinet, couch, and door frame. A wooden cross member is at the top creating an over the door shelf replacing our former over the door shelf.

Their is presently a wooden member at floor level that will be removed once everything is screwed in.

Trim, latching mechanisms and the like are yet to be added.

The curved couch side wooden piece will get an led light fixture on the couch side once completed. All wood will be urethane.

A rubber floor 'sweeper' will be added to the bottom.

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When I am done it'll add more and better pictures. A day invest so far.
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Old 08-25-2013, 02:50 PM   #507
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Low Cost Screen Door

Pretty much done except for adding magnets, handles and urethane no the wood. Hope to complete in morning



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Old 08-25-2013, 03:33 PM   #508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
..........
I began by building a bi-fold screen door. Followed by two side members and a top member. .........
Looks good, Norm. What did you use for raw material to make the bi-fold screen door ?
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Old 08-25-2013, 04:00 PM   #509
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Hi Tom.

Tommorrow after painting I'll take sequencial reassembly pictures but here's a general outline.

The left side wooden frame member is a 1"x3"x65". It will be screwed to the closet from the inside of the cabinet and into the floor.

The right side frame member is a 1x7x65" shaped to the outside wall. It will be screwed to the floor, fiberglass couch base from the inside and to the door frame at the top. This took the longest time because I had to make a template something I now have experience at after making a closet and overhead cabinet.

A 1x3x23" cross member will be screwed to the top of the right and left side frame members. This cross piecewill be used for an above the door shelf as well as a structural cross member.

Each side frame has a 1/2" quarter round to seal the edges of the door.

I have also used a piece of screen as a sweeper for the bottom of the screen door, a soft floor sweeper if you will. I will do something similar at the top.

The corners of the door will be held against the quarter round by magnets.

The bi-fold screens were made from a window screen kit. It includes the white outside frame, screen, tools corner pieces. It requires buying four extra corners and two extra side pieces. It was very easy to build and very light.

The handles are undecided but scamp uses a center pull and I will also.
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Old 08-25-2013, 04:58 PM   #510
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USB AC Outlets

Just bought 3 of these for our Scamp. One each in the anglrd face of the each dinette and one in the couch.

Our son has installed a similar product from Lowes that works well.

U-Socket 15 Amp Standard Tamper Resistant Duplex AC Wall Outlet - White with Built-in USB Charger Ports-ACE-7837 at The Home Depot
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Old 08-25-2013, 05:06 PM   #511
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Received an 18" LED light Bar from AMazon. It's been my goal to replace the wall mounted flourescent in the Scamp. The bulb cover had yellowed and I can not find a replacement and I want to get away from AC lights.

It's pricy but will mount to the bottom of the cabinet and rotates. The company has left and I'm on going at it, leaving in October.

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Old 08-25-2013, 05:18 PM   #512
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Norm,
You have a link for that led bar?
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:04 PM   #513
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Jim,

Here's the link. If you do a search on Amazon you'll see it comes in different lengths.

Amazon.com: LED Bar Light - Pivoting, Water proof, 18" Lamp, 12 Volt DC LED courtesy convenience lamp, 18" with on/off switch: Home Improvement
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:12 PM   #514
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Thumbs up

norm, thanx
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Old 08-26-2013, 01:26 PM   #515
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All the Pieces

Here's the view of all the pieces before I install them.


Attachment 63755


The left most piece is the top cross piece. It is also the bottom of an over door shelf. Note the magnetic latch that catches the top middle of the screen.

The next piece attaches to the closet. The hinges mount on this piece along with the quarter round beside it. The quarter round assures a good edge seal withe screen door.

The next piece attaches to the couch at the bottom and to the door frame above. The other side also has a quarter round and 2 magnetic catches.

Next is the bi-fold screen. If there are question don't hesitate to ask. It's been a relatively easy task.

I had to move the closet subside light up so the door could fold flat against the closet.

The screen white members are about a 1/4" thick allowing it to not take much space.

I admit to a number of quality mistakes but if anyone decides to try it let me know and I'll mention some details that will produce better results than mine.
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Old 08-26-2013, 01:29 PM   #516
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Attachment 63758

Another try at the picture

Seems to be a little quirk. The picture in this post and the previous post are at right angles to each other in my photo gallery.
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:04 AM   #517
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Flourscent fixture replacement

I replaced the Flourscent with an 18" Led light bar. The light bar runs on 12 volts, has a switch and rotates.

Connected it to the end of cabinet light fixture.

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Old 08-31-2013, 12:15 PM   #518
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Over the door shelf.
We previously had a small over the door shelf. With the new screen door I replaced it with a bigger one. I will eventually add hooks for keys.

The screen door required the light to be moved higher on the cabinet leaving a few holes. I used two of the holes to support a small piece of wood on the inside of the closet for our measuring cups and spoons

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Old 08-31-2013, 01:41 PM   #519
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Very nice! I now realize that I need a light in that exact spot! Don't think there are any wires there though.
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Old 08-31-2013, 02:10 PM   #520
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Door way light

We have a Scamp 16 and a pair of wires run up the corner of the closet.

I can't remember if our son's Scamp 13 had wires in the closet but I did install a 12 volt outlet there for him. I mounted a small hinged shelf on the closet door for a CPAP machine and a 12 volt outlet in the wall.

I've ordered an LED spot light for the couch side screendoor support and will tap into the 12 volts at that light for the spot.

The wiring is more than adequate because the LEDs had to previously support an incandescent lamp. As well this 12 volt run supports two muffin fans that exhaust the hot output of the closet air conditioner.
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