Propane refrigerator combustion isolation - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-17-2015, 12:08 PM   #1
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Name: Steve in NY
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Smile Propane refrigerator combustion isolation

I am in the middle of replacing an 1988 three way dometic refrigerator in my 16 foot Scamp with a new Dometic three way (model 2193). these refrigerators are different in dimension. I made a new face plate to fit the slightly smaller refrigerator, and it looks great. The problem now is isolating the propane combustion.

The Scamp installation from before clearly didn't isolate completely. There was a good attempt, but it's easy to see it wasn't totally effective, leaving cracks for spend combustion gasses to infiltrate the living environment. I want to eliminate that for obvious reasons.

Has anyone done this and if so, do you have pictures?

Take Care,
Steve
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Old 06-17-2015, 01:46 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve in NY View Post
I am in the middle of replacing an 1988 three way dometic refrigerator in my 16 foot Scamp with a new Dometic three way (model 2193). these refrigerators are different in dimension. I made a new face plate to fit the slightly smaller refrigerator, and it looks great. The problem now is isolating the propane combustion.

The Scamp installation from before clearly didn't isolate completely. There was a good attempt, but it's easy to see it wasn't totally effective, leaving cracks for spend combustion gasses to infiltrate the living environment. I want to eliminate that for obvious reasons.

Has anyone done this and if so, do you have pictures?

Take Care,
Steve
I used good old duct tape about 6 years ago to seal the cracks around the outside compartment ... its stood up. I also found that on the inside between the fridge compartment and the next cabinet there was a real big gap. Picked up a pieces of thin fiberglass and cut it out to fit the gap - again taped it into place. Not a perfect fix but it works and has stood the test of time so far. Just make sure you get a GOOD duct tape not the dollar store type.

I also put some foil bubble insulation around the top, bottom and sides of fridge itself (others have used the styrofoam type insulation) found it has helped the fridge a bit in real warm weather.
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Old 06-17-2015, 03:30 PM   #3
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Fridge insulation.

I suggest you fill the spaces around the fridge with rigid foam board. I used Foil faced foam board in 1/2" , 3/4" and 1" sizes to fill the spaces around the fridge in my Casita. I also used caulk and one part foam(like great stuff) to seal the foam in place. Sealing it keeps the combustion gasses on the outside but also keeps ambient air from getting to the exterior of the fridge.
The work I did made an amazing difference in how long my fridge holds the cold. On our way back from Newfoundland, we had to turn off the propane during the ferry ride. The fridge was off for 10 hours. The lobster, lots of it, stayed frozen.
Stuffing fiberglass or bubble wrap is better than doing nothing, but I suggest rigid foam expanding foam and caulk is a lot better.
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Old 06-17-2015, 04:06 PM   #4
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Scamp boxed my fridge with aluminum faced foam board with sealer and duct tape and it looks and works great.
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Old 06-17-2015, 04:07 PM   #5
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As Steve said, great stuff works.
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Old 06-18-2015, 07:08 AM   #6
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Great ideas everybody. And I have a lot of foam board and great stuff left over from another project! Confidence is high!

Take Care,
Steve
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Old 06-18-2015, 07:46 AM   #7
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Foam sealants near flue

Don't use expanding foam too close to the flue. That is one spot for foil tape or high temp silicone.
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Old 06-18-2015, 01:03 PM   #8
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Name: Wayne & Barbara
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Well, how about that... I just replaced the same model fridge in our 2000 16 SD, DLX Scamp.
Getting the old one out was the challenge. Besides the 6 screws in the front, and two at the rear (outside) I found there were a row of screws - under the stove top - and metallic duct tape - holding down aluminum baffling to the top of the fridge. And, a side panel - accessible thru the cabinet below the sink - glued to the side of fridge; and an electric outlet box screwed to it inside the cabinet. Once I got all that stuff loose the fridge came out easily.
the new one went in much easier, now that I knew all the tricks.
The metal baffling is screwed down to the fridge as before, and sealed with metal duct tape. As well as the side panel.
Have you had any trouble with running on 12 volts? We found that the factory wiring is to light, and results in only 10.5 volts at the fridge, due to too much resistance. I ran a 12 gauge wire directly from the battery. Now it shows 11 to 11.5 volts on battery power - which we use while traveling, just make sure to turn it off when parked for any length of time, so you dont run your car battery down.
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