Propex HS2800 Heater Install - Trillium - Fiberglass RV
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Old 06-29-2016, 06:50 PM   #1
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Propex HS2800 Heater Install - Trillium

So after contemplating getting a new heater for over a year I finally did it. I purchased a Propex HS2800 heater this spring and installed it a few weeks ago. After reading all the threads from FG owners on their Propex heaters I decided to go with the HS2800 which is the bigger 9500 BTU unit. My decision was based on having 2 small kids and often camping when the overnight temperature is in the 0 to -5 Celsius range. I mounted the heater under the curb side dinette. I decided to mount it there so it was the farthest away from the kids bunk bed and on the feet end of our bed. I mounted the electronic thermostat on the side of the galley so we would easily be able to adjust the temperature setting overnight if need be. The wiring was very easy to install with the provided wiring harnesses and I got my buddy Joe at Trillium / Outback to install the new LP line.

We went camping a couple of weeks ago in Banff, AB where the over night temperature was around -3 Celsius. The heater cycled very well during the night and on the low / med setting on the thermostat it kept the interior temp at a constant 17 degrees Celsius. With the 2 nights of the heater running our battery voltage never was below 12.4. You can hear the heater when in cycles on and off but it is not loud. It didn't keep us up or wake us during the night. This is by far the best upgrade I have done to our Trillium.
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Old 06-29-2016, 07:02 PM   #2
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Heater mounted under the curb side dinette.
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Old 06-29-2016, 07:09 PM   #3
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Vent and thermostat
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Old 06-29-2016, 07:10 PM   #4
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Fresh air intake and exhaust
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Old 06-29-2016, 11:54 PM   #5
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Very nice. Good info. I believe you and I have the same electric fridge (Nova Kool R1900). That's pretty good if you can run both for two days without the batteries going below 12.4V. The batteries may get a bit more depleted on warmer days, but I'm thinking you'll still be OK for a few days.

Do you have a carbon monoxide detector in the trailer?
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Old 06-30-2016, 08:59 AM   #6
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Interesting. I am contemplating installing one of these (probably the smaller one) in my old Scamp. I think under one side of the front bunk area when I do my front dinette mod. Could you expand on the venting a little? I only see one vent on the inside, is that intake or discharge and where is the other one? I assume your reference to fresh air intake is for combustion? Where did you discharge the combustion exhaust? Sorry for all the questions.
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Old 06-30-2016, 09:09 AM   #7
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Hi Vince, yes I have a Nova Kool R1900 fridge. I installed a relatively big solar panel set up (270 watts) last year. This year I did a 6 volt battery conversion with 2 Interstate batteries. They are rated at 232ah. As long as there is some sun I should be good for a few days.

I do have a carbon monoxide detector, smoke detector and propane detector. I wanted to be overly safe with the 2 small kids in the trailer.
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Old 06-30-2016, 10:45 AM   #8
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Hey Tim, the heater is awesome. I highly recommend it. The black vent that you see is the interior heat vent. This is where the heat comes into the trailer. There is also a second vent in the interior under the dinette table. This is to recycle the already heated interior air. There are two exterior metal tubes. The one in the photo that you see by the axel is the exterior combustion exhaust and the second is the fresh air intake for combustion.

One of the other benefits that I didn't realize is that there is no condensation in the trailer overnight with the heater running because of the fresh air intake as well.
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Old 06-30-2016, 12:25 PM   #9
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Hi Clayton, couple of questions.
Did you take out your old heater or did you not have one?
Do you have to vent through the floor or is it your choice? I would worry about catching the pipes. thanks
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Old 06-30-2016, 12:52 PM   #10
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I have been interested in these for some time now and will probably eventually get one. Seems like a great solution. Please update us all as time goes on. I do have some minor concerns about long term dependability or at least where one can get the little heater serviced and/or repaired.
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Old 06-30-2016, 02:14 PM   #11
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Hi Claire, the trailer had the original gravity fed Duo-Therm heater. It worked but I was a bit unsure about having a 40 year old heater. I also wanted to be able to run the heater overnight without worry.

You do need to run the fresh air and exhaust tubes through the floor. I am not worried at all about the clearance with the tubes. I never take the trailer off road.
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Old 06-30-2016, 04:31 PM   #12
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Sweet install Clayton. Is this model also an under body mount?
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Old 06-30-2016, 09:50 PM   #13
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Hey Dave, this model is not an outside or under mount unit. I did consider going with the HS2211 which is the under mount but it is the smaller BTU. After a lot of thought, I decided the higher BTU unit would be the better choice for me.
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Old 06-30-2016, 11:22 PM   #14
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Thanks for the info Clayton. I followed David Bs install in his LS and saw his handy work first hand at the Q rally. No heater in my SD and I don't want to loose any interior space so an under mount would be the way to go. One of the things I really like with these units is the fact that nothing can accidently fall against the heater grill. You can install the vents in areas that are always clear.
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Old 07-03-2016, 06:14 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayton View Post
Hi Vince, yes I have a Nova Kool R1900 fridge. I installed a relatively big solar panel set up (270 watts) last year. This year I did a 6 volt battery conversion with 2 Interstate batteries. They are rated at 232ah. As long as there is some sun I should be good for a few days.

I do have a carbon monoxide detector, smoke detector and propane detector. I wanted to be overly safe with the 2 small kids in the trailer.
It sounds like a very nice setup. With the solar panels I think you'll be good for more than just a few days.

I'm a bit envious of your heater but don't regret getting rid of our 42 year old gravity furnace. Our sleeping bags keep us toasty warm at night but they don't get rid of the condensation.
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Old 07-21-2016, 03:40 PM   #16
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Fresh air intake and exhaust
Nice.. I never got a furnace in my Scamp 16 and am considering the ProPex units.. I have some room in the port side dinette seat but a surge protector, fuse block and the converter are in that space. Is it safe for them to be in the same area?

There is also some other stuff that might get in the way under the floor including the gray water tank but if there is room I guess I could do an under floor install. However I like the idea of protecting the unit from road debris. Which ProPex model would you suggest for a Scamp 16 that is not often used in sub-freezing weather?

Is the objective of the piping only to separate the intake and exhaust ports? Could you just use a short stub for the intake as long as the exhaust was far enough away? How far would that be?

Do the intake and exhaust need to be routed through the floor or can at least one go through the body side?

Have I asked too many questions? I guess if I am serious I need to start reading the install manual.
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Old 07-22-2016, 06:51 PM   #17
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Hi Gordon, my Propex heater has been the best mod I have done to my Trillium. The electronic thermostat works amazing through the night. It would be awesome in your Scamp 16. The only stipulation on mounting the heater is that you must have 1" clearance on all sides (keep in mind the there is the LP connection and electrical connection). I got the HS2800 unit (9500 BTU). Most other members that have a Propex heater have gone with the smaller HS2000 model (6000 BTU). We have 2 small kids and often camp at below freezing temperatures. I think the HS2800 would be perfect for your Scamp. You must attach both the fresh air intake and exhaust tubes through the bottom of the floor. The manual says you must have a minimum distance of half a metre between the intake and exhaust. Hope that helps!


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Old 10-06-2016, 07:25 AM   #18
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Heater mounted under the curb side dinette.
The curb side dinette in my Scamp has the water tank, but the port side has room (I think). But then it would be right under my ears and only a foot away when I am sleeping. How would the noise be in this config?

(I must sleep facing the door )
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Old 10-06-2016, 10:18 AM   #19
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Hahaha. I'm like you, I must face the door as well. I wouldn't recommend having the heater right under your head. The unit doesn't make excessive noise (similar to a small hair dryer) but might be a bit of an issue directly under your ears.
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Old 10-06-2016, 10:41 AM   #20
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Thats what I expected... but I had to ask since other than that issue it is a good place to put it.

thanks
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