Pros and cons of a very small 3-way refer - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-03-2012, 01:54 PM   #15
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Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
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Dometic is out; gas line plugged. Looks pretty easy; only need to cut glass down to the kick flange about 3 1/2" above floor. Have to build a platform and also another platform for the water pump further aft as that and the original stand for the Dometic are 3/4" melamine board drywall screwed together and bonded to the floor of trailer with body filler and they deteriorated from moisture. Incidentally, this old trick of bonding wood to cured fiberglass with filled polyester resin (body filler) works really well; way I attached the ledgers for a new shelf in my hanging locker. Bout like buttering up bricks and you just scroosh it in place and hold til cured. Escondido Burro is out of business but cheap as they were they weren't wrong about that.

jack
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Old 03-03-2012, 11:23 PM   #16
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Yep, fill in as much insulation as will fit; that will help you.
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:41 AM   #17
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Trailer: 1993 Bigfoot 17 ftCB / 2011 Toyota Sienna
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Dorm Fridges! Caution!

Be aware that MANY dorm fridges use the outside walls for the condenser coils to vent the heat! My cheapy basement Danby Bar unit is such a beast. The sides get warm when it's running. Insulating them would be a BIG problem. If it has exterior cooling coils or uses forced air cooling, then you probably could insulate the walls on the outside.
And for Nancy from Quebec I can say that a Koolatron is NOT a fridge - it only cools and in hot weather will not hold proper fridge temperatures - good for drinks but not for meats and such.
I like and use the 2 way evaporative units (3 way units, on 12V, use a lot of power and rarely cool as well as propane or 110VAC).
Good luck.
Mike .....>
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:27 AM   #18
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Beverage cooler

Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
My old 3-way, which is original in a nearly 24 year old trailer keeps humming along. What works for me, is to use the refer to store food.. I only open it 2-3 times a day. Beverages go into a cooler... which has the lid lifted MANY times a day. Refer stays at temperature and the cooler works as it should. YMMV
We use the refrigerator for food and like Donna only open the fridge 2 or 3 times a day . We store water ,pop, and beer in a cooler we keep in the shade. We freeze plastic jugs filled with water for the cooler . We keep one in the freezer and one in the cooler and rotate the jugs in the morning and in the evening between the freezer and the cooler. I'm cheap and object to buying bags of cube ice which melts in a couple hours and Cost $4.00 ea
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:23 PM   #19
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Just a sugestion, how about adding a Honda generator to your trailer
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Old 03-18-2012, 05:30 PM   #20
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Still workin on it. New platform for water pump and hot water tank is in; 120VAC muffin fan on a strut is in behind the upper vent. I had a duplex receptacle in there with the old "3-Way" or NO WAY as I call it and the TV signal booster transformer plugged in. I needed a third receptacle for the muffin fan and thought about putting in a quad box but today I decided one of those 3$ "six for two" receptacle adapters form the hdware would serve as well. Cleaned up some wiring in there and got the fridge platform square to the cabinet wall. Taped up a poly dropcloth between the head and the aft berth and the galley to avoid contaminating everything with the "itchies" from cutting a larger opening in the counter front. Fridge probably in some day this week. Try it out at Killens Pond near Dover Del around Easter. Thinking about that 1200 watt inverter; the starter battery I'm using right now won't support it but sooner or later I'll get a deep cycle 24 or 27. Incidentally, I've read at least fifty times here and there that batteries kept on converter in winter lose water from cells really fast. Funny, mine's been on converter all winter, showing 13.65 volts and doesn't appear to have gassed at all. Maybe the looksee every month helps?

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Old 03-18-2012, 08:52 PM   #21
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The B&D Nucool 1.7 fits Mike's assessment. I believe the B&D 2.7 which I have has a conventional compressor and coil in the rear so I doubt that sheathing the thing in a Reflectix jacket will do harm. As to filling up empty space with blocks of blueboard or batt, I'm not going to do that as I haven't seen any home fridge demand the sort of baffled "chimney" which is necessary for an ammonia fridge. And yeh, that's 2.7 cu.ft in the same space taken up by the "Ray Bradbury" ammonia fridge which was bigger on the outside than the in.

I am perfectly at peace with those who indicate they can live with not only an ammonia fridge but a very old and very small one. Apparently I can't.

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Old 03-19-2012, 01:03 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Trostel View Post
Here is a link to Don Dayton's project to run his Casita frig on AC from his tow vehicle while on the road. He found this worked better than 12V DC or propane. I don't know what the current draw of a dorm frig is, but this might also work for your application.
Fridge, ac power from tow vehicle - a set on Flickr
I find that intriguing. My 2 way on LP keeps going out when driving. Running it this way on electric (only when driving) appeals to me.

I wonder, though, if it could be done more simply? Like if I plug the inverter into my (500W max) 'cigarette lighter' style outlet, then run a normal AC extension cord from the inverter to the trailer's shore-power plug? My Highlander's outlet quits when the ignition is off, so I could not run the battery down. No solenoid, no switches, no wiring, just 'plug and play'. I think my fridge draws 1.5A at 120v (so 15A at 12v from the car, I think). Anyone know if this would or would not work?
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