Quieting the Suburban furnace model NT-16SE, same as the NT-20SE - Page 10 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 11-25-2014, 10:13 PM   #127
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New River AZ
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The fan may just be stuck from sitting so long not being used..... If you can reach it with a stick or something try to spin it to see if it will spin with no electric to it..... Also be sure you have power to the fan with a test light or multimeter

Joe and Linda
2013 Casita SD
Dodge Ram 4x4
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Old 11-25-2014, 10:15 PM   #128
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I tried that, and I cannot get the fan to move... also when I apply power it just pops fuses

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Old 11-25-2014, 10:19 PM   #129
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New River AZ
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That's your problem..... the fan should spin free just like a house fan in the "Off"Position.
Just hearing you say it pops the fuse confirms my opinion..... It's a lot cheaper to get a fan for it instead of a whole new furnace..... take the fan out and try to work it free with WD-40 or get the model number and order a new fan.....
Just for a test when you get the fan out put a new fuse in and turn the furnace on for five seconds and the fuse should not blow.
use caution doing that test because you don't want the furnace to light (which takes about thirty seconds) without a fan in place..... just a quick test to show the fuse doesn't blow to confirm the problem
Joe and Linda
2013 Casita SD
Dodge Ram 4x4
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Old 11-26-2014, 12:25 AM   #130
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Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
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Originally Posted by vegas250rr View Post
question... I am new here so hello,

I just bought my camper and the furnace is not currently working... no noisy fan here, mine is apparently seized. So should the fan assembly spin freely with no power to it much like a ceiling fan? or is that my problem?

thanks for any helpful thoughts in advance
The service manual for your Furnace is located here.
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Old 11-26-2014, 05:26 AM   #131
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Name: Joe
Trailer: 1999 Casita 17' SD
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The most important part in your write up is the cracked exhaust tube. It can be literally a REAL KILLER!
I tackled my Suburban furnace after first buying our Casita 7 years ago and found the intake tube that on my furnace was spot welded to a plate that mounts on the outside of the trailer just under the chrome plated cover had broken loose and fell into the space in the cabinet behind the furnace. Good thing it was the INTAKE and not exhaust.
I suspect the flexing of the fiberglass bodies from the rough ride is the root cause of the tubes cracking.
My motor bearings were fine but there were many loose or missing screws causing a lot of racket.

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Old 11-26-2014, 07:15 AM   #132
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Trailer: Scamp
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Joe, that's good feedback on the intake pipe breaking also. There have got to be many more of those furncaes out there with cracked or broken pipes, not just our two.

For their own safety, before owners spend more time with cutsey mods, they should pull their furnace and check for any cracked pipes.


The fan should indeed turn very freely. If you are not able to find a replacement motor, I have a 1983 Suburban "parts" furnace that I can sell the motor and fan off for a few dollars and shipping.
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:31 AM   #133
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Trailer: 2003 17'Casita SD
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Anybody following this topic it is being revived over on my forum with new mods http://www.casitaforum.com/invboard/.../page__st__120
Gene & Nelene
Phoenix, AZ
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Old 07-16-2016, 05:06 PM   #134
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Name: Ijaz
Trailer: Sunlight
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squirrel fan removal

[QUOTE=DavidSo;274348]Ok, with the fan out you have this:
Attachment 40771

How easy did your combustion or squirrel fan come out. Mine doesn't budge but a little. Did you have problems or did it slid off easily after removing the hex nut?
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Old 07-16-2016, 07:49 PM   #135
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Name: Jim
Trailer: Scamp
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Squirrel fan removal

If I remember correctly, those set screws were metric and required a long shank to get between the fins and down on the screw.

Mine came right off after the screw was removed. Maybe a little WD40 or rust buster for a couple of days and it will decide to give up and come loose.

Also, I don't remember if I mentioned it, but I tipped up the end of the furnace and pulled the rubber up away from the shaft on the end of the motor using a dental pick or the like. Then I dripped a couple drops of motor oil into it. Rotate the shaft and let it sit for a day or so, then repeat it again. I don't think there is a roller bearing on the motor, just a bronze oilite bushing. It can use all the oil you get in it and then wipe off the excess. Some will fling off when you run the motor, so just wipe it off before you reassemble the heater into the housing or else it will collect dust on the fins.

Mine has been running nice and quiet hearing only the fan, no squeaks, screeches, etc. when starting, running or stopping.

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