Re-Packing Wheel Bearings - Fiberglass RV
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Old 02-28-2011, 09:05 PM   #1
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Re-Packing Wheel Bearings

Many may have already done it, and now I have too, with pictures. Re-packing the wheel bearings every 20,000 miles is rather easy, and the most fun was putting the clean grease back in. Thanks to Eric at the Oregon 2010 Gathering, and my Dad, Gene, over Thanksgiving, I will be ready to repack my wheel bearings by myself next time in another 18,101 miles. There may be many comments on the tools and supplies shown, but that is what was available and it worked.
Attached Thumbnails
1 Remove cover.JPG   2 remove cap nut washer bearing.JPG  

3 wheel picture 2 items removed.JPG   4 Correct order of bearing assembly, left is outside.JPG  

6 Should there be grooves like this.JPG   9 Repack using the old fashion way.JPG  

10 replace inside bearing and ring.JPG   11 Replace outside bearing washer nut pin.JPG  

12 fold one prong over and snip both.JPG   Tools and Supplies.JPG  

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Old 02-28-2011, 09:32 PM   #2
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Nice pics! Thanks!
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Old 03-01-2011, 05:21 AM   #3
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Dayna, thanks for sharing. Basic maintenance on these trailers, when done as needed, rather than in the "too late" stage will keep these babies rollin' along for a lifetime. Pride in ownership is pretty cool, huh?
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Old 03-01-2011, 08:20 PM   #4
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How much torque did you put on the nut when reassembling , just curious ?
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Old 03-03-2011, 10:09 PM   #5
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Good job! If you need more info, you can download the Dexter service manual here Dexter Axle - Trailer Axles and Running Gear Components - PRODUCTS & LITERATURE. Look under Trailer axles service manuals, 600-8K capacities.

One more thing, be careful to use the correct grease. There are lots of reports of folks mixing grease types, with disastrous results.

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Old 03-04-2011, 11:42 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by mike stone View Post
How much torque did you put on the nut when reassembling , just curious ?
No "torque" should be applied to that nut. After it's been packed with grease and assembled tighten the nut by hand while turning the drum or wheel. When it stops tightening back it off to the first exposed hole for the cotter pin to slide into. You should be able to rock the tire back and forth and feel a very small amount of play.
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Old 03-04-2011, 03:37 PM   #7
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Paul,
I think you want to torque that nut to approx 50 ft/lb. This just pushes everything together through the new grease and seats everything (better than I could do by hand alone). Then back it off and retighten finger tight. Ref page 52 of the Dexter manual I cited above.

You are correct about the play. First-timers might see that rocking and think it's much too loose, but it is absolutely necessary.
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Old 03-04-2011, 04:18 PM   #8
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Paradigm shift.

Killing old habits is tough. Our great grandparents greased wagon wheels, our grandparents and parents we are all greasing trailer wheels. So, how do we break this paradigm, with difficulties. We did it with cars and trucks; when did you grease the wheel bearing on your towing vehicle last time? Do we need rocket scientists to help us? - no. Dexter has sealed bearings which belong to the 21st Century, but only few people use it. I talked once to a fellow in the Dexter outlet store in Portland about this product; both of us were surprised why this product is not popular. I understand why these sealed bearings should not be used on boat trailers, but on travel trailers!

So why?
Is it that we love greasing wheel bearings and getting up at 4AM in the morning on the Wheel Bearing Greasing Holiday, I doubt it.

Is it that the dealer network would lose income from greasing wheel bearings so they continue to promote and sell trailers with 19th Century's (Timken 1898) wheel bearings?

Are we afraid of something new and unproven?

Changing the paradigm is not easy; I will make sure that my new trailer will have sealed bearings. Unfortunately, upgrading my current axles to sealed bearings would require new axels.
Dexter Axle - Trailer Axles and Running Gear Components - Nev-R-Lube Bearings
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Old 03-04-2011, 05:59 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Marv View Post
Paul,
I think you want to torque that nut to approx 50 ft/lb. This just pushes everything together through the new grease and seats everything (better than I could do by hand alone). Then back it off and retighten finger tight. Ref page 52 of the Dexter manual I cited above.

You are correct about the play. First-timers might see that rocking and think it's much too loose, but it is absolutely necessary.
I was thinking more on the lines of "torquing that baby up and putting a cotter pin in". The manufacturer is the place to start when looking for info. While I've never pulled out my torque wrench and dialed in 50 ft/lbs. it is important to seat everything after greasing.
We tow every other weekend for 8 months of the year plus a big road trip in the summer so I clean and adjust the drums etc. fairly often and the amount of "play" never changes between inspections.
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Old 03-04-2011, 06:27 PM   #10
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I agree completely!
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Old 03-04-2011, 07:25 PM   #11
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I commented earlier about this then the stupid Hughes net lost the server, anyway what I said was in the case of wheel bearings a little loose is better than a little tight, it doesn't take long to burn up the bearings or the spindle.
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Old 03-04-2011, 08:19 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the good tips. No "torque" was used, but good and snug to squish it all together, some play in wheel, and then backed up to next available cotter pin hole. I'll have to check out the Dexter Manual, sounds like good info. I have heard bad things about mixing grease, so I'll certainly watch that in the future.
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Old 03-05-2011, 07:37 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeR View Post
Killing old habits is tough. Our great grandparents greased wagon wheels, our grandparents and parents we are all greasing trailer wheels. So, how do we break this paradigm, with difficulties. We did it with cars and trucks; when did you grease the wheel bearing on your towing vehicle last time? Do we need rocket scientists to help us? - no. Dexter has sealed bearings which belong to the 21st Century, but only few people use it. I talked once to a fellow in the Dexter outlet store in Portland about this product; both of us were surprised why this product is not popular. I understand why these sealed bearings should not be used on boat trailers, but on travel trailers!

So why?
Is it that we love greasing wheel bearings and getting up at 4AM in the morning on the Wheel Bearing Greasing Holiday, I doubt it.

Is it that the dealer network would lose income from greasing wheel bearings so they continue to promote and sell trailers with 19th Century's (Timken 1898) wheel bearings?

Are we afraid of something new and unproven?

Changing the paradigm is not easy; I will make sure that my new trailer will have sealed bearings. Unfortunately, upgrading my current axles to sealed bearings would require new axels.
Dexter Axle - Trailer Axles and Running Gear Components - Nev-R-Lube Bearings
I personally don't like sealed bearings. A couple pennies of grease every couple years especially on a tow vehicle is better then the price I recently paid for new bearings on my previous truck.
I replace bearings all the time for my work and a set of tapered greasable roller bearings will outlast sealed bearings.
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Old 03-05-2011, 10:28 AM   #14
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Hi: Dayna C... I guess I'm no grease monkey. Fifty bucks to do the bearings and adjust the brakes every couple o' years seems to me well spent. My RV tech has a nifty gadget that they drop in a cleaned degreased bearing put the lid on and squish the grease thru the entire bearing. New seals and your good to TOW!!! Remember that bearing Mfg's like to sell bearings not grease...just like auto Mfg's like to sell autos not oil!!!
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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