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09-01-2013, 07:40 PM
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#41
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Member
Name: Stacy
Trailer: "79 Scamp "Tiny Tow"
Texas
Posts: 66
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Seal tape.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDat
You can buy the seam tape from Scamp BUT you will need to supplement adhesive with something like 3M spray adhesive 77 (hardware or big box stores have it). Mine has been up for a year without problems.... Except for the smaller test pieces where I did not use the spray on adhesive just to see how well tape stuck on it's own. It didn't.
It's pretty easy, just hold the can close to the seam, spray a fast line of adhesive, wipe off any areas that are wider than the tape will cover right away, wait 5 minutes for the spay to tack up, then apply tape. I used much less than one can to do the whole trailer.
There have been links posted here in the past to other places to get the tape with reports that it is of better quality than what Scamp now has.
Original tape stayed in place for 35 years so I have to figure the quality of what Scamp stocks now is lower than what they used when producing the trailers originally.
Have also seen pictures of the caulk approach, done right it looks pretty good. I went with tape because I felt that caulking would be more work and not be easy to remove if I wanted or needed to redo in the future.
You will need something like tape if you want to trim in your windows, you really don't want to caulk them from the inside to hide the seam between window and wall. Would make window removal for repairs a nightmare.
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Hello!
Can you tell me what tape you used? Was it paintable. I was going to paint my ensolite, and found the caulk just rubbed off, so now dealing with that. Also, I was thinking that maybe I should caulk enough to fill the crack, then add the tape?
What do you think? I have some that will be harder to get off/out, but most is gone now.
Thank you,
Stacy
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09-01-2013, 07:42 PM
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#42
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Member
Name: Stacy
Trailer: "79 Scamp "Tiny Tow"
Texas
Posts: 66
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Connie, what did you end up doing for the seams?
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09-03-2013, 09:18 AM
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#43
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Moderator
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Michigan
Posts: 3,744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StacyJayT
Hello!
Can you tell me what tape you used? Was it paintable. I was going to paint my ensolite, and found the caulk just rubbed off, so now dealing with that. Also, I was thinking that maybe I should caulk enough to fill the crack, then add the tape?
What do you think? I have some that will be harder to get off/out, but most is gone now.
Thank you,
Stacy
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I purchased tape from the Scamp store. I don't think painting it would be an option but have never tried. I think if you are going to paint ensolite you would have to fill seams with a paintable caulk, and use wet sponge to blot and blend in.
Have to ask why paint ensolite? Seems like a lot of work and expense and between curtains, cupboard doors, and cushions very little of the "wall" actually shows from a decorative standpoint.
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09-03-2013, 07:38 PM
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#44
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Member
Name: Stacy
Trailer: "79 Scamp "Tiny Tow"
Texas
Posts: 66
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Thank you for responding and the information. I wish I could leave the ensolite, but after several attempt to make it look good, I give. It also has patches of caulk to cover several holes. So, I caulked it and used the sponge like you said. I hope it sticks! I will paint it to make it look nice again. Thank you, again. Stacy
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09-16-2013, 08:09 PM
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#45
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Junior Member
Name: Johnny
Trailer: Scamp
Georgia
Posts: 11
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You should use latex paint I think, not silicone
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12-26-2013, 01:19 PM
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#46
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Member
Name: Michelle
Trailer: 13' Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 76
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Progress slowed on our Scamp redo this fall, but I do have some new progress to report. We had the cabinets refaced and a new table built. I still need to paint them. I tracked down someone to hang the interior lining. (I was afraid it was too much of a job for me after hanging the ensolite. Unfortunately, it looks like the ensolite that I struggled to put up has to come back down.) We are currently working on the exterior. I had mentioned earlier that the door had a big gap. We've tried a few approaches to getting it fixed. I'm happy to say we are pretty much there! As soon as the door repair is done, we get to paint! Pictures to follow...
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12-26-2013, 01:34 PM
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#47
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Member
Name: Michelle
Trailer: 13' Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 76
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Here are a few pictures of the cabinets. The closet door now has a mirror in it. We added drawers in the kitchen cabinet, but I don't have a picture of them. I'll post it later.
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12-26-2013, 01:40 PM
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#48
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Member
Name: Michelle
Trailer: 13' Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 76
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Here's the door challenge…
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12-26-2013, 01:47 PM
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#49
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Member
Name: Michelle
Trailer: 13' Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 76
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We tried cutting and then reglassing from the inside but it didn't hold. With the help of a friend that refurbishes old cars, we set to work from the outside the second time. You can see from the pictures how we scored the outside, used tension straps on the inside and then put on additional fiberglass to hold it in place.
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12-26-2013, 01:56 PM
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#50
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Member
Name: Michelle
Trailer: 13' Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 76
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The fit still wasn't quite right so we added a bit of width to the door with fiberglass, reworked the hinges and used bondo to smooth out the curve. (I had purchased new hinges from Scamp but the quality was very poor. We ended up using pieces from the new and old sets, and drilled a new, straighter hole in them.) Along the way we also decided to put a porthole window in the door too.
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12-26-2013, 02:02 PM
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#51
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Member
Name: Michelle
Trailer: 13' Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 76
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It's almost there. There's just a slight gap on the right side that we are still working on. This work is out of my territory, but I understand that with the help of some bondo, this will blend right in! I'm quite certain the door fits better now than it has ever fit!
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12-26-2013, 02:06 PM
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#52
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Member
Name: Michelle
Trailer: 13' Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 76
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I can't wait to have it painted. We are having the same professional do the painting, but I'll get to help. We did put a first coat on the tires. Here's a sample of the colors.
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12-26-2013, 02:37 PM
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#53
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Senior Member
Name: Slavomir
Trailer: 1978 Boler
Washington
Posts: 275
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Wow, that's some serious work on the door! Mine is in a pretty poor shape as well and am a bit scared to get going on it.
Good work!
Slavomir
__________________
1978 Boler - work in progress...
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12-26-2013, 03:19 PM
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#54
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Member
Name: Michelle
Trailer: 13' Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 76
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Thanks Slavomir. I wish I could take the credit! I've tried to be involved as much as possible, but it's not really my hands (or brain) doing the hard work. My help has really taken a liking to the project and are on the hunt for perfection. It seems many people have door problems. If you have any questions about what we've done, let me know. If I can't answer your questions, I'll get the answer.
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12-26-2013, 03:42 PM
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#55
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Senior Member
Name: Slavomir
Trailer: 1978 Boler
Washington
Posts: 275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AM Moats
Thanks Slavomir. I wish I could take the credit! I've tried to be involved as much as possible, but it's not really my hands (or brain) doing the hard work. My help has really taken a liking to the project and are on the hunt for perfection. It seems many people have door problems. If you have any questions about what we've done, let me know. If I can't answer your questions, I'll get the answer.
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Thanks Michelle!
__________________
1978 Boler - work in progress...
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12-26-2013, 07:19 PM
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#56
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,710
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Wowser Michelle! Looks like lots of work... can't wait to see it in paint.
The reason for the brass ball and spring is to allow the door to move in the correct line and not pinch on the belly band. The hinges are actually not touching top to bottom. The ones on my Scamp are almost 1/2 inch apart. I can't see from the pictures.... are you NOT using the spring?
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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12-26-2013, 09:40 PM
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#57
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Member
Name: Michelle
Trailer: 13' Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 76
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Donna, thanks for the input on the springs. We are using them although I don't think they are on in all of the pictures.
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12-27-2013, 07:16 AM
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#58
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1971 Boler
Posts: 998
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AWESOME. Love the work your doing. Love the porthole in the door. What are you going to cover the insulation with on the interior?
Rick
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12-27-2013, 08:01 AM
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#59
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Member
Name: Michelle
Trailer: 13' Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 76
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Rick, I'm actually going to have to take the reflectix back down. I decided that I wasn't up to the task of covering over it so I tracked down an auto / marine upholsterer that will do the job. Understandably, he is not comfortable putting his work over mine. He's going to use some type of padding for insulation and then cover it with a forgiving headliner fabric (Flexform). I would have preferred a smoother surface, but he recommended this for form, fit and function purposes. Are you familiar with this type of headliner fabric?
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12-27-2013, 08:10 AM
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#60
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1971 Boler
Posts: 998
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Looks like Scamp Rat Fur and that is what I am trying to stay away from.
Rick
Quote:
Originally Posted by AM Moats
Rick, I'm actually going to have to take the reflectix back down. I decided that I wasn't up to the task of covering over it so I tracked down an auto / marine upholsterer that will do the job. Understandably, he is not comfortable putting his work over mine. He's going to use some type of padding for insulation and then cover it with a forgiving headliner fabric (Flexform). I would have preferred a smoother surface, but he recommended this for form, fit and function purposes. Are you familiar with this type of headliner fabric?
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