Refurbishing my 77 Scamp - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 05-21-2012, 04:31 AM   #43
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Posts: 3,129
Replaced cleaned and polished belly band yesterday, replaced curtain brackets on door and finished replacing door handle inside and out.

Some notes:
  • Used multiple layers of wide masking tape on side of rivet gun to pad and protect trailer side from being scratched by rivet gun when doing rivets on belly band. Tip and side both padded. Checked often because it showed signs of wearing through and I just put another piece of tape on it.
  • Door core did not let old rivets fall took some care to avoid pushing old rivet against outside door skin when drilling out.
  • New scamp inside door handle is longer, with same curve so the end is too close to the door to allow curtain behind it. Will have to remove and grind some of the end off handel to use the top and bottom curtain rod on door window curtain.
  • Remove outer handle first then tap square shaft to drive out, ours was totally rusted in place so I used a drill the same size as the shaft and drilled out the center. This cut "slots" out of the shaft on all four sides (round drill, square shaft). Gave access to penatrating oil and reduced shaft contact with hole. Came out easily after that.
  • With the inside locking pin in place the door when closed is locked. Yes, I locked my self out and had to remove hinge pins to get back in. I say the wind closed the door to the best of my recollection.
Will post some pictues to go with this soon.

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Old 05-21-2012, 04:41 AM   #44
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Posts: 3,129
I must be doing something right getting the outside spruced up, had someone pull in to my driveway while I was working on scamp and asked if they could check it out. They said they have driven by and seen it several times and wondered what it was like.

Got the first of what I expect will be many "It's so cute" and the first of what I hope will be many "1977 ? Really!".

These folks are looking to replace an air stream they sold a few years ago. I told them there are several fiberglass campers to choose from but their best bet would be to come to this forum and see what brands/features are available. Check out the for sale / sold section. Or just join and post what they want to do with a camper and features they wanted and the nice folks would tell them what models they thought would be a good fit.

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Old 05-21-2012, 06:53 AM   #45
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Roy in TO's Avatar
Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 4,960
Originally Posted by BigMike View Post
Here is a picture of the inside of my 85 Scamp with the seams filled with latex caulk, smoothed and then painted with 123 Primer and Behr High Gloss latex paint. I'm not sure why folks are taping the seams...
Sometimes the gap in the seams are very uneven, with jagged edges. I caulked mine, applied the seam tape, primed everything, and painted everything.
Before and afters can be seen here:
Restoring Our 1972 Boler American
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:39 AM   #46
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Posts: 3,129
Scamp door handle removal

As promised here is picture showing drilled out shaft and clearence of the old inside door handle end. You can see how drill cut slots and the damp from penatrating oil. Longer handle on new inside door handle continues the curve and ends up almost touching the door.

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Old 05-27-2012, 11:20 PM   #47
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Posts: 3,129
Maiden Voyage

After a fair amount of work and thanks to a lot of suggestions, advice and encouragement from the folks on this forum we made our first trip. And looked good doing it! Sister said it looked like a new trailer, which at first glance it does. That Red Max put it over the edge from looking good to looking new.

I really can not say enough good things about the community in this forum. The folks who posted direct answers to my questions, the people who took the time to pass on knowledge and suggestions to others that I was able to learn from. The people who make the site go.

Three heavy rains here in Frankenmuth where we came for the Memorial weekend dog events. We stayed dry and comfortable. Still work to do on the inside in terms of getting all the plumbing and gas hooked up but it is very usable as is.

If you look close you can see the trees reflected in the back street side corner.

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Old 05-28-2012, 07:25 PM   #48
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Name: John
Trailer: gave up!!
Posts: 238
It looks great! Hope you had a blast camping in it this weekend.
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Old 05-28-2012, 07:39 PM   #49
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Name: Lil
Trailer: '84 13' Scamp & '14 homebuilt Benroy Teardrop
Posts: 333
Looks beautiful! Great job.
Lil M.
“When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world.” ― John Muir
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Old 05-28-2012, 07:39 PM   #50
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Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Posts: 24,540
Ditto to John's comment
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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Old 05-29-2012, 04:56 PM   #51
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Posts: 3,129
Thanks all, it was fun. Will be more fun once we figure out our gear list and where to stow it. And get our routine down for our "new" camper. That stuff just takes time to find what works best.

This trip it was load any container from basement or garage that was camping gear wherever it would fit. On return we decided to use the spare bedroom to sort through things and get it down to what we need. Prompted in part because we had both backpacking stove and full sized Coleman stove along with many other "inappropriate" items. I mean backpacking gear? Not in years. Large fanny pack is about my limit now.

Still all in all a great maiden voyage. Wife said on the way back lets draw a 100 mile circle on the map and see all the places we can go in a short drive. Good bye yard work, hello camping!
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:36 PM   #52
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Name: Rosemary
Trailer: Cardinal (Restoring)
Posts: 245
Love the idea of drawing the 100 mile circle and finding all the places to camp. Great job on your re-do. Taking the time and doing it right will pay off in the long run. Hope you have many wonderful trips. Keep us updated with photos of your trips. Your not done with this group yet, we are all photo hogs.
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Old 08-29-2012, 12:22 AM   #53
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Posts: 3,129
window latch brackets

First I'm not going to advocate this method of repair. It seems pretty solid, but it is a distinctly red neck git-r-done approach. I don't have the glazing strips to replace my window plexiglass so replacing the whole window latch bracket is out. I would also have to come up with a way to crimp rolled rivets to attach the new bracket. Actually I think fabricating a new bracket would be easier. It would just be a piece of 1 x 1/2 x 1/8 aluminum angle with a little dinking around to get it to size and shape. That said here is what I did.

Removed the glass and it's frame at the hinge, that turned out to be as easy as removing the center screw, lifting the window up until it stuck straight out and sliding sideways.

I used JB Weld to sister a 1/8 x 7/16 x 1 aluminum brace onto the stub of the bracket and extend the bracket stub with another piece of 1/8 x 7/16 aluminum butt joined to the stub. After the JB Weld was set (24hrs) I used a dremal to cut the two pieces down to just over 7/8 inch high followed by a little grinding to smooth it out and round the edges.

During the cutting and grinding I had a finger in contact with the bracket, when it heated up from friction of tool I used a wet paper towel to cool it off. JB Weld will tolerate up to 500 deg. fahrenheit but I know heat would be the most likely thing to weaken the joins.

I then drilled a small hole 3/4 inch up from the window frame, measured from base of bracket and re-attached arm using split rivet.

First picture shows the broke bracket after a little file work and dremal grinding to clean up the break, I also used a small wire brush to clean the bracket. The hole is left over from PO wire hook and/or attempt to attach arm to stub of bracket. Hey more for the JB to grip against.

This picture shows the brace that will run along side the bracket and the piece cut to butt up to the stub of the bracket.

This shows the pieces clamped on the bracket stub, with a small piece of wax paper between the clamp and the work. Wax paper prevents JB Weld from making my clamp part of the work when it sets. The lower clamp is holding the brace to the stub of broken bracket, top clamp is holding piece butted onto bracket stub to the brace.

When done it was already thicker by the 1/8 inch brace so I used the thinnest headed fastener I could think of to attach the prop arm, a stainless steel split rivet. No nut, one uses a screw driver to bend the tails outward then squeezes them flat with pliers. The tails were a little too long so I used the dremal and a grind stone to cut them off so the ends did not stick out paste the bracket. Purchased these at the local true value hardware store. Yeah hardware stores!

In the end I still had to file the slot in the window frame a little wider to let this thicker bracket plus rivet head pass through, but not much and it appears to be working. I can latch both sides of that window now.

While I was at it I replaced the rubber seal with 5/16 wide by 1/4 thick EPDM rubber self stick weather seal (in gray) purchased at Home Depot. This replaced the badly worn and coming unstuck white version of what I think is pretty much the same product. "D" profile but does not have the tab part that would go in the channel of the window, just sticks on.

I have two more of these brackets I need to do but I'm going to check the local hobby shops and see if I can get a piece of 1/16 inch thick aluminum to use for the brace. I think it will be strong enough and will then allow bracket through window slot without having to file the opening any bigger. If I have to I can get it on Amazon but dont really need 5 ft. for $20 bucks.

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