Regular Mini Refrigerator Question - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-27-2018, 11:08 AM   #29
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Name: Wayne
Trailer: Scamp
New York
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Thermocooler

We travel with a 12v thermocooler almost everywhere we go (even when not Scamping). We have "gone through" several; they typically cost no more than ca $100.

When Scamping at a campground that has 110v, we plug in using a 110-12 v inverter (which you can buy with or for these coolers).

We only draw on 12v power while driving. (These coolers will drain a battery in 8-12 hours!) They only cool 30 degrees (40 is a typical claim) below ambient temperature. Since the interior of a car, while driving, is usually kept at ca 72, the contents are kept plenty cool. But one should not leave them inside a car, or outside, in 80+ degrees!

A thermocooler is NOT the same as a refrigerator. So we don't expect to keep meats cold enough. But it will keep a lot of other food items cool enough to safely extend their edible life. (the thermocooler was a NASA invention for use in space.)
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Old 06-27-2018, 11:16 AM   #30
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Name: stephen
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Based on my limited experience we put a dorm type mini fridge in a 2016 rpod we bought used. The dealer said I can get you a new dometic for $900 and I asked him the dimensions of the space. It was a perfect fit. Of course we have to use a good cooler because the mini only operates on AC.
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Old 06-27-2018, 12:34 PM   #31
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Name: Carl
Trailer: 1982 Burro
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I put two series 31 AGM batteries in my (late and un-lamented) Burro simlar to the system Don Clemens mentions. To handle the startup surge current of the Haier 1.6 cu. ft compressor fridge I bought a 3000 Watt surge capacity inverter (1500W running capacity). That's a very large inverter for a very small refrigerator but there is additional current to run something else (not a larger fridge though!). The two series 31's are capable of keeping the refrigerator frozen for 42 hours in 110˚F ambient heat. The Burro is long gone but I still have all of the electrics including a 60A converter to keep it all charged. All of those batteries and electronics now occupy a 35" Husky Mobile Job Box. It's very, very heavy but it does have wheels and could be considered semi-portable. I just refer to it as an "Electric Power Module". It's going to be powering yet another 1.6 cu. ft. refrigerator in just a few weeks when we finally take our new Aliner Ascape camping. All I have to do is figure how to get it into the back of the pickup next to the Honda EU3000is...
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Old 06-27-2018, 12:55 PM   #32
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Name: TD
Trailer: Chalet Aframe Popup
California
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A DC fridge alternative to the ice box

Here is another option for replacing your icebox, or an additional option for keeping your food cool OR frozen in your trailer. It's an Alpicool C2 21 quart capacity DC/AC fridge. My friend has one and it is working out well for her. It uses 12v or 110V and is pretty low in power consumption. She ran it all weekend in fridge mode on just the trailer battery. She uses a 100 watt solar panel to keep the battery topped off for longer trips. There is a youtube video review of this fridge/freezer by Slim Potatohead. This cooler can be used as a refrigerator OR a freezer. For those of us without a freezer, it would make a nice addition. My friend built a pull out tray in her trailer for a more permanent installation. Just sharing more options here.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075R1LH8D...v_ov_lig_dp_it
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Old 06-27-2018, 03:53 PM   #33
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Name: Dan
Trailer: Looking
Wyoming
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Anyone tried using a Super Cooler?

I have thinking about removing the dinky, useless, refrigerator from my camper and replacing it with one of the "Keeps ice for 10 days" coolers.



Has anyone one there tried this solution?



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Old 06-27-2018, 04:03 PM   #34
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Trailer: 2014 Escape 21, 2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 4x4
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those ice boxes only keep ice for a week (or whatever) if they are 75% filled with ice, everything else including the cooler is pre-chilled, and you don't open them. of course, they have to be top open, not front, so not very practical as an RV fridge, unless you mount them on a pullout slide of some sort... and you'll need a reasonable way to drain the inevitable melt water that doesn't involve carrying the whole heavy beast outside (I can barely get my 55 qt 'Canyon Outfitter' in/out of the Escape trailer door, it lives in my truck instead... with the Casita 16, I'm not sure it would even fit through the door and go around the corner).
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Old 06-27-2018, 07:02 PM   #35
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When you drain the water, you're also draining the cold.
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Old 06-27-2018, 07:52 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
When you drain the water, you're also draining the cold.
indeed, I don't drain the water til I'm adding ice.

My Canyon 55qt will keep ice frozen for a week if you don't open it, but if a couple dudes are sucking down beers all day and restocking it with warm cans/bottles daily, in 100f weather, it can go through a 20 lb bag a day. its completely airtight, too, you have to crack the lid before you can drain it or it vacuum locks and drains really slowly with air burbling in the drain. I generally restock it, then go get ice, then drain and add ice.
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Old 06-29-2018, 09:46 AM   #37
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Name: Patricia
Trailer: ECO
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Dorm Fridge

Yes, I got a bright red dorm fridge on eBay . It arrived safely, and as I unpacked it, I set aside the bottom foam and cardboard packing with the holes cut in it for the front feet. Be aware, that the unit should stay in the upright position at all times, to prevent damage to the unit.

I had measured my opening, and knew it would fit correctly. I bought a piece of plywood from Loweís and added a cleat at the back, so it would sit level inside the cabinet, since the front of the board would sit on the front lip of the cabinet door opening. I also bought a narrow cargo strap and put it inside the cabinet, with the latch towards the inside, so I could strap it in place once it was inside. With electrical and propane lines inside the cabinet, I didnít want it shifting around at all.

I used a spade bit to drill holes the size of the front legs into the plywood, using the bottom packing material as my guide. After making sure the strap was in place, I put the plywood in place on top of it, and checked it for level, and clearance of the lines along the floor of the cabinet. I did tape some reflectix over the inside of the vent which would have been used for a propane refrigerator. After screwing the plywood into the floor, I set the fridge into place, and secured it with the cargo strap. It doesnít move at all.

I do use a cooler to transport food to and from camping, or if I donít have power. It gets to temperature in a couple of hours. The freezer area is very small, but it will make enough ice cubes for drinks. So far, 50 camping nights in it this year, and no problems with the fridge. I did add some trim molding around the rough cut opening.
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Old 06-29-2018, 07:59 PM   #38
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Name: Jim
Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
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After trying a Peltier-type cooler for a while, we splurged and switched to an efficient compressor type fridge - world of difference. For some reason I thought the Peltier-type (the kind that can either warm or cool to 40F away from ambient) would be efficient, but they are not! That thing killed my battery fast.
We wanted to have 3 days autonomy with a 1.7 cu ft fridge, and now we have it with just a group 27 battery (unless it's very hot out, and then it might run for two days, but often in those conditions it's also sunny and we can top up a bit with a solar panel). The key is the compressor - there are several brands that use the Danfoss, which uses 35 watts when running. Our fridge is a Vitrifrigo, but a TruckFridge is pretty much the same.
It took me a while to cough up the money, but I have been happy ever since (5 years I think). First day, we froze our bacon by mistake....
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Old 08-09-2018, 05:31 PM   #39
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Name: george
Trailer: 1998 burro 17'
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I also traded out my 1.7 cu/ft dorm fridge in my burro with a 2.1 engel plus 2 golf cart batteries. Pricey but solved my fridge issues
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Old 08-10-2018, 03:20 PM   #40
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA
Pennsylvania
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Propane fridge

Iíve been following this thread with interest. The person that started it was hoping for an inexpensive substitute for the icebox on the assumption that a propane fridge was expensive and troublesome to live with. Today I was doing some pre trip maintenance on my fridge and water heater. I started thinking about my fridge experience and Iíve got to say I have never had problems with the 4 different propane refrigerators that Iíve traveled with. They do cost more than $125 but in most cases less than a danfoss compressor type fridge along with the solar gear and battery(ies) needed to run one. I love solar and I live in northern PA and I know for certain that if itís raining and or cloudy for 4 or 5 days straight, solar will not keep a compressor type fridge running and cooling in the summer. The ones Iíve had all made ice and the one I have now usually has a container of ice cream in the freezer. I would prefer not to have the push button conveniences the new ones have but for now and in the past, everything works.
I suggest the OP reconsider a propane fridge or a big ice chest or even retrofitting a big ice chest with additional exterior insulation.
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