removing 12 volts from a propane fridge. - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-11-2014, 05:08 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: casita 17 SD
Pennsylvania
Posts: 153
removing 12 volts from a propane fridge.

I have a 2011 Casita 17 with a 4 cubic fridge. Its a wonderful appliance and is push button convenient. But'......when it runs on propane, it requires power from the battery for the controls. If nothing else is using 12 volt power, the fridge alone will discharge the battery more than 50 % in a week. I have a solar panel and a generator that I hate using(generator). I rarely plug in and mostly boondocks. Has anyone converted a perfectly good totally automatic fridge to be Non-automatic and not have a need for a battery, and run simply on propane?
I know some folks may think I'm nuts and I not asking for comments on my motives. I'm just wondering if anyone on this forum knows of this conversion being done.
Thanks
__________________

__________________
starbrightsteve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 09:17 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Night Sailor's Avatar
 
Name: Conrad
Trailer: Bigfoot 3000 & Barth "slide-in" truck camper
Connecticut
Posts: 963
Send a message via Skype™ to Night Sailor
Isn't there a switch to control that already?
__________________

__________________
Night Sailor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 10:01 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Name: Jack L
Trailer: Bigfoot B-17 CB
Washington
Posts: 1,226
You would need to get a refrigerator with a pilot light instead of the electronic ignition you have now. Maybe a second battery would get you the result you are seeking,
__________________
Jack L is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2014, 08:31 AM   #4
Member
 
Name: Tim
Trailer: Aliner folding & Weekend Warrior toy hauler
Ohio
Posts: 68
I don't think it is possible.

Some refrigerators have a heater around the door seal to prevent condensation/mold. You would be able to turn that feature off. The switch is sometimes hard to find but would be inside the refrigerator.
__________________
Shopping for a fiberglass TT
Currently own;
2009 Pontiac Vibe pulling a 2009 Aliner Sport = 22 MPG
1998 Ford E150 pulling a 2006 Weekend Warrior toy hauler = 8 MPG
beemerphile1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2014, 09:24 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Timber Wolf's Avatar
 
Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
Posts: 1,440
Wow, seems like a lot of draw for an appliance running primarily off another source. Also, what other loads do you have that your solar setup can’t keep up with that draw anyway? Maybe upgrade your solar system a little to take care of the draw? Sorry I do not know anything about propane refrigerators, I snatched mine out in favor of a straight 120v fridge for now until I can afford a straight 12v and solar system to run it when boondocking. Gas is for cooking, outside of the trailer for me.
__________________
Timber Wolf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2014, 09:29 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Night Sailor's Avatar
 
Name: Conrad
Trailer: Bigfoot 3000 & Barth "slide-in" truck camper
Connecticut
Posts: 963
Send a message via Skype™ to Night Sailor
I agree with Tim. I won't worry about electrical loads for about her. 4 billion years. The sun is reliable. Propane on the other hand runs out and is a recurring expense.

Does anyone want to buy a two way Americana fridge ? I would gladly swap it for a compressor type DC one.

I am thinking about a single plate induction cooker also for days I am plugged in.
__________________
Night Sailor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2014, 09:56 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: casita 17 SD
Pennsylvania
Posts: 153
propane fridge

The last time I was in Glacier NP in June, it rained and/or was cloudy for 7 days straight. I stay in places where there is no place to plug in and while I have a generator, I do not enjoy using it. I don't care how efficient a DC fridge is, it won't work for me. A good DC fridge will discharge your battery if you have a few cloudy days even with solar. Here at home I have a 5040 watt array. On a sunny day it produces 4000 to 5000 watts at mid day . on a cloudy day 300 to 600 watts. I live in northern PA not Arizona. If you lived and traveled in Arizona where the sun shines constantly, a DC fridge and solar might work fine. I rarely go there. I go North.
A propane fridge works for me.
__________________
starbrightsteve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2014, 10:13 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Timber Wolf's Avatar
 
Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
Posts: 1,440
Understood, I am sure propane refrigerators have a place and certainly have worked well for a lot of folks for a long time. Good luck with your quest!
__________________
Timber Wolf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2014, 10:33 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Although going for 7 days with it on propane until you hit 50% is way better than running it on DC I am surprised by that number. What does the manual on the fridge suggest it uses in the way of power amps?

Are you also using your water pump during that time or do you have any detectors that may be also eating up a little bit of power?

I have a much older 3 way fridge with little in the way of electronics so its power usage isn't really an issue.
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2014, 10:43 AM   #10
Raz
Senior Member
 
Raz's Avatar
 
Name: Raz
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Vermont
Posts: 4,063
Hi Steve, here's what I know. When we started shopping for a new trailer 5 years ago the first one we looked at had a 3 way 3 cubic foot Dometic fridge. A little research showed it had a control board that used about 1/2 amp. I believe among other things they boost the thermocouple voltage to the safety valve. Apparently most 3 ways now have these boards. It's the price you pay for having the controls inside. If the control board on your fridge operates the safety valve then the fridge wont run with out it. To the best of my knowledge only low end fridges like the Dometic 2193 run the safety valve directly off the thermocouple. The voltages are so small that wire and contact resistance is a big issue, hence the controls at the back. Raz
__________________
Raz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2014, 11:35 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
David Tilston's Avatar
 
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1977, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
Posts: 5,317
Registry
In my Trillium 4500 trailers, most have a Dommetic RM36E. This is a 2.7 cu. ft. model. The controls are on the inside, at the bottom. They are mechanically connected to the back of the fridge through metal rods. The RM36E uses no electricity when operating on propane.

The chart at this link:
http://www.thetford.com/Portals/0/PD...er_rev4-13.pdf
Is intended to help you convert from an old fridge to a new one. No reason you could not use it to go the other way. No guarantee that what they call an old fridge does not use electricity, but it is a place to start.
__________________
David Tilston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2014, 12:30 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Steve L.'s Avatar
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2003 Casita 16' SD
Michigan
Posts: 1,690
Registry
Setting the advisability aside, a 12v line has to go to it from somewhere, presumably originating at the DC panel. If you have an extra fuse location, split it out and pull the fuse when you don't want it. Or finagle as switch in the line somewhere.
__________________

__________________
Steve L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
fridge, propane, vin


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Managing 12 VOLTS D Tharp Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 1 09-14-2009 10:49 AM
Installing a digital Amps/Volts Meter peterh Modifications, Alterations and Updates 21 09-10-2009 04:37 PM
converting 12 Volts to AC with a Used UPS ? Marty Smiltneek Modifications, Alterations and Updates 3 07-17-2009 03:38 PM
Problems with Refrigerator on 120 volts John Blair Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 14 05-07-2007 03:55 PM
12 Volts provider for testing Legacy Posts Modifications, Alterations and Updates 2 06-05-2003 10:52 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:43 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.