Repairing a heavily modified charge setup. - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-13-2013, 09:00 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by CoreyNL View Post
Thanks guys, this is a great help!
I'm going to just leave that master switch open while the system is in this configuration. Should I remove the connection between the charger and panel and go with a heavier gauge between the battery and panel?

I also happen to have on hand a "mean well S-150-12" power supply - 115 AC input, 12V DC output at 12.5A. Perhaps I should add this to the system to handle my lights/radio/fridge while the charger charges the battery?
Or are there units available that do both? (power accessories while intelligently charging/maintaining the battery)
I finally popped for a modern smart charger / converter and it does it all. If you are willing to spend another $150 or so, it is exactly what you need.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Progressive-...f9a862&vxp=mtr

Is your refrigerator also 110 volt? If so, don't use the 12 volt option as it causes you these problems and is not as effective as 110 volts.
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:16 PM   #16
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Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
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Originally Posted by CoreyNL View Post
Thanks guys, this is a great help!
I'm going to just leave that master switch open while the system is in this configuration. Should I remove the connection between the charger and panel and go with a heavier gauge between the battery and panel?

I also happen to have on hand a "mean well S-150-12" power supply - 115 AC input, 12V DC output at 12.5A. Perhaps I should add this to the system to handle my lights/radio/fridge while the charger charges the battery?
Or are there units available that do both? (power accessories while intelligently charging/maintaining the battery)
IMO, your electrical configuration of given circuit will work with optimum case when: 1/ Battery plays a role as main supply for your 12VDC needs in your RV...2/ Solar panel, also battery charger will play a role of supplemental through battery
...In order to do that, one should isolate the battery charger from solar system supply, i.e..no connection directly between battery charger and LOAD. The direct connection b/t solar control panel to LOAD could work nicely without interference into the battery charger in this kind of set up. Regarding to another extra 12VDC supply( in particularly a DC source which is converted from AC, 120v source), one should put into account of ..THE COMMON BOND in order to make the whole system works as wanted and... in a safely manner. This means, which terminals will be grounded? which ones are FLOAT BOND? Now your system will include 12VDC purely from battery, i. e ...+12V and -12V, Converted 12VDC with its' -12V and +12V, 120VAC common bond(White wire, usually) and AC Ground terminal(Green wire, usually)Remember these kinds of common bonds could include, chassis, battery ground terminal, battery charger's negative terminal and other negative terminal of third DC power supply...After consider all of this aspect AND MAKE IT WORKS, one should THEN determine what is the maximum current of whole combined system could give out and from there to determine what size of wire gauge, what rate of fuse/breaker in the main supply circuit...Just my thought and hopefully you have the courage and please do not forget to test/trial/pilot before put it in a term of permanent use. Safety is first...Good luck.
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:49 PM   #17
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Just put a new, proper converter in, and be done with it. Batteries shouldn't always be charged at 10 amps, and your trailer will sometimes draw over that, also. Adding more power supplies in to increase it to another fixed amperage is just creating more problems.
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:47 PM   #18
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Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
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Just put a new, proper converter in, and be done with it. Batteries shouldn't always be charged at 10 amps, and your trailer will sometimes draw over that, also. Adding more power supplies in to increase it to another fixed amperage is just creating more problems.
...I am totally agreed with you on this issue in term of economically, convenience, safe and...simple. This is truely an optimum case. When upgrading my Trillium, I bought a used converter for 30bucks and it works perfectly in my Trillium project. But when I upgrade the whole system which combines 120VAC, 12V battery and 12VDC from converter, it is more head-ache than I thought but finally it works perfectly, thanks God. In the case of this thread's issue, if one tries to make what left over from previous owner to work, it will lead to complexity, not mention about in the long term he wants to upgrade his system like mine, it will create more problems in the future.....
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:30 AM   #19
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Cory welcome from another VT owner, I think you make the 10 or 11th known owner, about the 13th known trailer. If you wish Pm me with your address and last 4 numbers of the serial number and I will add you to the spreadsheet.
As to your wiring diagram, it is essentially the way mine was wired when I got it with the exception that I still had a converter instead of a battery charger. The way it works is when you are on shore power the master switch has no effect on the 12V system. When running off battery the relay kicks the battery out of the circuit when it gets too low. I thought I could wire it in a better way but kept blowing fuses so reverted to the original set up with the exception that I wired a relay into the circuit that fed the fuse block and used the master switch to energize. This bypassed the small gauge wire of the master cut off which fed the fuse block.
Post pictures please.
Michael J.
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