Replace Refrigerator in 2013 Scamp - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-22-2015, 09:18 PM   #1
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Name: Krestine
Trailer: Scamp 16'
Washington
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Replace Refrigerator in 2013 Scamp

My 2013 16’ Scamp standard Layout 4 had the large Dometic RM2410 installed in the cabinet designed as a closet. The original owners must have requested this modification because, according to the Scamp specs, this refrigerator is only available in the 16’ Deluxe model. I have a rivet issue with that cabinet and have come to the conclusion that placing the refrigerator in the closet is compromising the structure of the trailer in that location and consequently caused the cabinet to pull from the ceiling breaking the rivets (only two rivets hold the entire cabinet to the ceiling). Not surprising when oneconsiders that the refrigerator weighs at least 78 pounds and is installed into a cabinet designed to be a closet.

In the original specs the RM2193RB Dometic refrigerator is located in the cabinet next to the stove, which is at a lower center of gravity and also weighs at least 35 pounds less. I want to replace the refrigerator, but not sure if I should put the smaller one in the closet or where it belongs, which is below and to the left of the stove. I may not have a choice because the trailer has all the venting installed and side panels cut out for the larger fridge. I would have to patch and repair the side of the trailer left of the door, or maybe I could just leave the vent on the outside and seal it off inside the closet. Then I’d have a faux vent

Has any one else experienced an issue like this or have any suggestions or comments?

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Old 07-22-2015, 09:44 PM   #2
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Bummer with such a new trailer!

Scamp uses three refrigerators: a 1.9 cf, a 4.6 cf, and a 6.0 cf. I don't know the model numbers. The smallest is the one that is mounted to the left of the stove in the 16S layout 4. The 4.6 is a very common factory upgrade and is mounted in the closet next to the door. It is listed among the options here for current Scamps, and I have seen many installed on older units. The 6.0 is only offered on the 19D layout A.

Assuming the fridge you have is the 4.6, it shouldn't be the cause of the rivet problems unless it was installed incorrectly. Many folks have them in that location without issue.
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:42 AM   #3
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Name: Krestine
Trailer: Scamp 16'
Washington
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4.6cf fridge option

Thanks for your reply. The embedded hyperlink displayed a 404. i am interested is seeing where the closet is suggested for place to install the 4.6cf refrigerator.

404 Not Found


Good to know that many 16' Scamp layout 4 have the 4.6cf refrigerator installed in the closet without problem. I'll start looking at what else could cause the cabinet to pull away from the trailer wall at the ceiling causing the rivets to break.
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Old 07-23-2015, 12:35 PM   #4
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Name: Eddie
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DK
The upper closet corner rivets in Scamp and Casita trailers are usually the first rivets to fail on their trailers. Don't to get too excited just replace the rivet with a little sealant under the base. As the trailer ages, air leaks out of the refletix and things settle in you will see the failure rate lessen. Usually replacing the rivet once is all you need to do. Just keep an eye on it.
If the problem persist there are other options but try to stay with rivets.
Jon is correct about the larger frig.
Eddie
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Old 07-23-2015, 12:47 PM   #5
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
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Krestine (DK), not sure why you started another thread to discuss the same issue in this thread. but as I asked there, What leads you to conclude that there is not enough support for the larger fridge there?
the 2410 is a std option for the 16 Standard, and one I choose.. If there is a problem with the mounting I would like to know.

PS... there are some advantages to the 2410.. For one, as I understand it, it keeps colder longer than the smaller one. I would keep what you have and be happy about the upgrade. Yea, you lose a little closet space but thats the only downside I see unless you can show how the mounting there is no good.

PSS.. Opps, forgot that the 2410 does not run off 12 vdc.. some people might want a three way instead of a two way (I'm still the conservative monogamous type so the 2410 is OK with me.)
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Old 07-23-2015, 02:45 PM   #6
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Name: Dennis
Trailer: 16' Scamp
Georgia
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2008 Scamp - fit & finish issues

Hi - I have a 16' 2008 Scamp that I bought new. It has had SEVERAL "fit & finish" issues, ...including rivets installed "cockeyed". It's as if they had a new employee and turned him/her loose too soon. This could be the cause of your broken-rivet problem. --- I will NOT buy another Scamp. --- Previously I had a 13' 1999 Scamp that I'd bought used; it was good.
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Old 07-23-2015, 03:15 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkas View Post
Hi - I have a 16' 2008 Scamp that I bought new. It has had SEVERAL "fit & finish" issues, ...including rivets installed "cockeyed". It's as if they had a new employee and turned him/her loose too soon. This could be the cause of your broken-rivet problem. --- I will NOT buy another Scamp. --- Previously I had a 13' 1999 Scamp that I'd bought used; it was good.
Maybe a Monday/Friday build issue. My 2008 has not had any rivet issues (until recently, and those two were caused by my own failure to replace snap caps when needed, so no fault accrues to Scamp). I agree with Eddie, though. While I don't want to excuse sloppy assembly, it's the sort of thing you deal with once and it's unlikely to recur. The basic design is sound.
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Old 07-23-2015, 04:38 PM   #8
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Name: Dennis
Trailer: 16' Scamp
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Maybe a Monday/Friday build issue. My 2008 has not had any rivet issues (until recently, and those two were caused by my own failure to replace snap caps when needed, so no fault accrues to Scamp). I agree with Eddie, though. While I don't want to excuse sloppy assembly, it's the sort of thing you deal with once and it's unlikely to recur. The basic design is sound.
-------
Yes. ...OR it COULD be the incompetent assembler that they'd assigned to MY Scamp. Whatever the cause, Quality Control should NEVER have allowed it to pass, ...or allowed the shoddy assembly to continue to completion. There is NO excuse or justification for that.
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Old 07-23-2015, 04:59 PM   #9
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Yeah, shoddy workmanship did cross my mind, but didn't want to malign Scamp because I do love mine. However, when I replaced the rivets it took two sizes and addition of washers to make some rivets fit. In Sept, I plan to remove the fridge to reinstall the cabinet and add additional rivets for reinforcement.
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Old 07-23-2015, 06:49 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by DKReed View Post
Yeah, shoddy workmanship did cross my mind, but didn't want to malign Scamp because I do love mine. However, when I replaced the rivets it took two sizes and addition of washers to make some rivets fit. In Sept, I plan to remove the fridge to reinstall the cabinet and add additional rivets for reinforcement.
Yeah, I like my Scamp too, in spite of its issues. But it HAS been a large disappointment. No "show stoppers", just many pains in the tail. I'm currently considering LIGHTWEIGHT FIBERGLASS TRAVEL TRAILER regarding a replacement.
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Old 07-23-2015, 07:56 PM   #11
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Name: Krestine
Trailer: Scamp 16'
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I also experienced a problem with a light fixture that will not turn off, so I removed the bulbs. This issue is definitely a malfunction of the fixture, which has only been turned on and off less than a dozen times. Not workmanship at Scamp, just cheap fixture, I think.
BTW: Really like the Eggcamper. If you get one you should name it "Bertha" because the rear looks like a big. . .
Escape in Canada also makes a nice product. I've seen several in the Northwest while camping.
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:09 PM   #12
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Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
DK
The upper closet corner rivets in Scamp and Casita trailers are usually the first rivets to fail on their trailers. Don't to get too excited just replace the rivet with a little sealant under the base. As the trailer ages, air leaks out of the refletix and things settle in you will see the failure rate lessen. Usually replacing the rivet once is all you need to do. Just keep an eye on it.
I agree with Eddie - fridge or no fridge for what ever reason those rivets do fail from time to time. Not on all the trailers but frequently enough that its a common issue. I do not think it is a fridge weight issue, but a flex issue. Pretty sure if we could ride inside the trailer we would be surprised as to how much flex is taking place on the trailer as a whole and especially on the thin panel the closet is made of. Way better that the rivet snaps than the fiberglass. I would simple replace the rivet and see what happens. I replaced one in that area about 5 years go -not because it snapped but due to the ring for the outside cap having broken away causing the rivet to be loose. About 35,000 tow miles later and its not broken. I have had a rivet snap on the side wall in the kitchen area 3 times in 7 years though. In that area it is a flex issue for sure.
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Old 07-28-2015, 11:15 AM   #13
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Name: Krestine
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Body Alignment Off

Carol, thanks for the info about the physics of flex. That gives me something else to add to the equation, especially since I noticed last evening that the door is getting out of align and new spider and deeper cracks in the fiberglass around the aluminum belly band and the door catch. I checked a photo I took in December 2014 right after I purchased the trailer and the stripe was lined up. I wonder if the problem Iím having with the cabinet rivets breaking have anything to do with the door getting out of align vertically? The door still closes without problem, which is interesting because the door and the body are about 0.25" off if measuring the change in the stripe alignment. The bottom of the door also seems to be tweaking to the right.

I'm hoping that when I get the refrigerator pulled out it can be determined if all the proper support was installed so that the closet can in deed support the additional weight. BTW the cabinet with refrigerator is not in the middle of the trailer; it is mostly forward of the middle, which makes it forward of the axel.

Needless to say I'm a bit concerned about continuing to travel until fixed, but I'm a full-timer and it's my home, so not much choice. Just hope I don't come apart while on the road.
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Old 07-28-2015, 02:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKReed View Post
Y However, when I replaced the rivets it took two sizes and addition of washers to make some rivets fit. In Sept, I plan to remove the fridge to reinstall the cabinet and add additional rivets for reinforcement.
Why washers to make a rivet fit?

Lots of good info on the internet as well as in past posts here as to how to correctly choose a rivet size.

I have replaced lots of rivets on my Scamp over the years - mostly to reseal outside hatches or replace electrical or water fittings but also a few holding cabinets and adding new roof vents. If I did not have the correct sized rivet on hand I would go out and buy the correct one or modify the sizes I did have that where the best diameter fit to fit lengthwise as well. In many/most situations the cause of rivet problems is either incorrect size rivets used or not installed tightly enough. In my experience in working on my trailer as well as fiberglass boats in the past no two holes are the same and one should not expect one size rivet to work on all of them regardless as to whether or not they are side by side or holding up the same item. The party who drilled the holes may not of done a nice clean straight down hole drill when they did it, resulting in some variances in the hole size.

If it was my trailer I would make sure I fix the problem using correctly sized rivets and then wait to see if the problem was fixed before adding any more holes to the roof of my trailer to add a reinforcement that may be totally unnecessary based on other parties experiences with the same trailer and fridge set up.
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