Replacing Door Lock - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-29-2014, 10:50 PM   #15
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My '84 scamp came with a Bargman key and a non Bargman lock (it had a typical scamp lockset)... I'm not sure why that was, but the key to my storage shed as well as the roof rack on my car would also operate the lock (both locking and unlocking without any extra effort) so I decided to replace it. The inside and outside components were solidly rusted together and removing it was anything but easy. Liberal amounts of penetrating oil were applied over the course of a week, but it was ultimately cut off with the aid of a dremel multi-max. I replaced it with a FIC lock, it's much more secure and latches easily without having to slam anything. I did have to cut a rather large hole in my door to install it, as well as fabricating a shim for the inside of door since the lock itself is thicker than the stock scamp door.
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Old 09-30-2014, 09:14 AM   #16
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Replacing Door Lock

One more thing... The lock cylinder works by preventing the handle and square shaft from turning. Apparently, bouncing down the road causes the handle lever to bang against the internal lock mechanism, which explains why these locks are prone to fail. It was recommended that I install the handle pointing down, rather than to the side. Found out after I had already replaced the handle, and I haven't bothered to make the change, but something you might want to consider. Donna's solution would also address the problem.

BTW- garage door locks are available in two styles: the T-style Donna used and an L-style that is more like the original handle. I bought one of the latter before I found the original-style replacement. The garage door handles were a bit cheaper, but didn't feel as nice in my hand. As Donna says, YMMV.
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Old 09-30-2014, 09:26 AM   #17
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Replacing Door Lock

Sarah, the fact that any old key of the right size worked in the lock just meant the lock cylinder was bad. I recently bought a spare lock set from a forum member who was upgrading to a heavier-duty set-up, as you did. What is the FIC lock you used? Did you post a thread of your work? Just curious.
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Old 09-30-2014, 09:53 AM   #18
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Jon, with our Scamp, I did the same as Sarah, and installed a FIC lock. When I cut out the opening in the door for the lock, I fiberglassed the new opening prior to installtion, so water could not get inside the door.
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Old 09-30-2014, 10:26 AM   #19
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David did you redo the strike plate as well? Replacing my handle is on my list of things to do one day as well....
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Old 09-30-2014, 11:36 AM   #20
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David did you redo the strike plate as well? Replacing my handle is on my list of things to do one day as well....
Carol,I did replace the striker plate. I used both "flat stock & angle" steel to form a new one. It's been so long that I don't remember why I did this, but I believe it was because I used the original hole as the limiting edge of the new opening. I think if one was to place the new hole where it would align with the original striker plate, and fill the original hole, one would not have to make a new striker plate.
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Old 09-30-2014, 11:38 AM   #21
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...I fiberglassed the new opening prior to installation...

Would you explain what you mean, or perhaps you posted in another thread?
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Old 09-30-2014, 11:41 AM   #22
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Carol,I did replace the striker plate. I used both "flat stock & angle" steel to form a new one.
Thanks Dave for the explanation & pic. Appreciate it. I have seen some interesting custom made striker plates and thats is the one reason I have not under taken this modification - I would not have a clue as to how to go about making one or even if I have the tools to do it!
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Old 09-30-2014, 11:53 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Would you explain what you mean, or perhaps you posted in another thread?
Jon, the door has a porous fiber core, and if it gets wet, it holds the water and swells, thus causing the door to straighten out the curve. I simply added fiberglass resin to this core at the new openings edges, and let it dry prior to inserting the new lock. I got this idea from several posts warning of water intrusion into the door, and another post where someone suggested when cutting holes in the wood floor make it larger than needed for whatever you are going to pass through. You then fill the hole with fiberglass resin, let it dry, then re-drill the hole the size you need. This method seals the wood edges of the hole from letting water ruin the wood.
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Old 09-30-2014, 12:39 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by sarahspins View Post
I'm not sure why that was, but the key to my storage shed as well as the roof rack on my car would also operate the lock
Works on both probably because a lot of RV/Rack/Storage locks come with a CH751 key. Definitely worth changing to one with a less common key code.
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Old 09-30-2014, 09:09 PM   #25
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I should have added that anything that would physically fit into the key slot would lock/unlock the door - the cylinder was definitely toast I was more amused that the key provided with my trailer, while it was likely a key to some trailer out there, couldn't have gone to the lockset attached to my door.

Making the FIC lock fit was not an easy task, cutting the hole in the door is the scary part (and I have not glassed the edges of my opening yet - it's on my "to do" list along with a gazillion other things), but I was able to basically fix a block of wood on the closet cabinet where it meets the trailer shell and attach the striker plate that came with the lock to that - it is secure enough for me (I wasn't going to go overboard with reinforcing it - because the reality is that our fiberglass trailers are flexible enough that it would be a simple task to pop the door open with a prybar anyways, no matter how "secure" I made that strike plate).
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Old 09-30-2014, 09:10 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by KevinPete View Post
Works on both probably because a lot of RV/Rack/Storage locks come with a CH751 key. Definitely worth changing to one with a less common key code.
I doubt it - the Yakima key for my roof rack doesn't open up my shed (it doesn't even fit in the lock) and vice versa - they are very different keys with very different key codes
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Old 10-02-2014, 08:45 AM   #27
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door lock problems

The door latch is exposed on the inside of the door. If locked in, you can move the latch back into the housing and the door will pop open. My wife was concerned about not being able to lock the door when alone in the camper. I would lock the door from the outside and she was able to open the locked door from the inside. (we didn't have the hole and pind arrangement that many of you have)
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Old 10-02-2014, 09:23 AM   #28
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... (we didn't have the hole and pin arrangement that many of you have)
Sounds like it may no longer be an issue, but if it is, it's a simple fix. An unbent cotter pin on a short chain attached to one of the screws and a hole drilled under the lever handle will do it.
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