Replacing Door Lock

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by David B.

...I fiberglassed the new opening prior to installation...

Would you explain what you mean, or perhaps you posted in another thread?

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by David B.

Carol,I did replace the striker plate. I used both "flat stock & angle" steel to form a new one.

Thanks Dave for the explanation & pic. Appreciate it. I have seen some interesting custom made striker plates and thats is the one reason I have not under taken this modification - I would not have a clue as to how to go about making one or even if I have the tools to do it!

[David B.]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

Would you explain what you mean, or perhaps you posted in another thread?

Jon, the door has a porous fiber core, and if it gets wet, it holds the water and swells, thus causing the door to straighten out the curve. I simply added fiberglass resin to this core at the new openings edges, and let it dry prior to inserting the new lock. I got this idea from several posts warning of water intrusion into the door, and another post where someone suggested when cutting holes in the wood floor make it larger than needed for whatever you are going to pass through. You then fill the hole with fiberglass resin, let it dry, then re-drill the hole the size you need. This method seals the wood edges of the hole from letting water ruin the wood.
Dave & Paula

[KevinPete]

Originally Posted by sarahspins

I'm not sure why that was, but the key to my storage shed as well as the roof rack on my car would also operate the lock

Works on both probably because a lot of RV/Rack/Storage locks come with a CH751 key. Definitely worth changing to one with a less common key code.

[sarahspins]

I should have added that anything that would physically fit into the key slot would lock/unlock the door - the cylinder was definitely toast I was more amused that the key provided with my trailer, while it was likely a key to some trailer out there, couldn't have gone to the lockset attached to my door.

Making the FIC lock fit was not an easy task, cutting the hole in the door is the scary part (and I have not glassed the edges of my opening yet - it's on my "to do" list along with a gazillion other things), but I was able to basically fix a block of wood on the closet cabinet where it meets the trailer shell and attach the striker plate that came with the lock to that - it is secure enough for me (I wasn't going to go overboard with reinforcing it - because the reality is that our fiberglass trailers are flexible enough that it would be a simple task to pop the door open with a prybar anyways, no matter how "secure" I made that strike plate).

[sarahspins]

Originally Posted by KevinPete

Works on both probably because a lot of RV/Rack/Storage locks come with a CH751 key. Definitely worth changing to one with a less common key code.

I doubt it - the Yakima key for my roof rack doesn't open up my shed (it doesn't even fit in the lock) and vice versa - they are very different keys with very different key codes

[john in flushing]

The door latch is exposed on the inside of the door. If locked in, you can move the latch back into the housing and the door will pop open. My wife was concerned about not being able to lock the door when alone in the camper. I would lock the door from the outside and she was able to open the locked door from the inside. (we didn't have the hole and pind arrangement that many of you have)

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by john in flushing

... (we didn't have the hole and pin arrangement that many of you have)

Sounds like it may no longer be an issue, but if it is, it's a simple fix. An unbent cotter pin on a short chain attached to one of the screws and a hole drilled under the lever handle will do it.

[Darral T.]

And here's yet ANOTHER FIC door lock mod. I didnt like the fact that anyone with a standard Scamp key could easily open mine and all other locks or even similar handles everywhere else! This lock works 100 times better! You can shut the door and it will latch without having to turn or activate the handle! Plus, it has a "deadbolt" feature we really desired and like. Finally, if it ever gives trouble (and these rarely do) it's easily replaceable with readily-available locks.

I didnt fiberglass ANYWHERE on the door mod. If you install the lock correctly, it will not leak with the factory provided rubber seal.

Carol mentioned the custom-made striker plates and I've yet to see another installation like this one. I made this striker plate from 11ga 316 Stainless steel. Ok..so I work at a machine/fabrication company and making this style of strike plate was a breeze...and free.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/503516...7643963773193/

Originally Posted by Carol H

Thanks Dave for the explanation & pic. Appreciate it. I have seen some interesting custom made striker plates and thats is the one reason I have not under taken this modification - I would not have a clue as to how to go about making one or even if I have the tools to do it!