Replacing Door Lock

[Connie Estep]

My door lock died on my 1980 Boler right after I bought it in 2004. A locksmith sold me a new one that I was able to install with no problem (and I am not handy at repairs). The 1995 Scamp I just bought came with keys that look like luggage keys and the lock is obviously worn out. Locking & unlocking takes a lot of jiggling and holding the key just partway in. I checked the Scamp website parts list and didn't see locks listed. Have other people just gone to locksmiths also for replacement parts? Didn't try that yet as I took the Scamp directly to the shop for maintenance. Thought I would ask the Forum experts first.
Connie

[Donna D.]

You must have missed it. Both parts of the door lockset on the second page of the Hardware tab on the Scamp site. Hardware $32 for both (plus S&H)

[Jon in AZ]

My Scamp lock also died not long after we bought it. It happened 24 hours before we were planning to leave on our maiden voyage, so ordering from Scamp was not an option (and their shipping tends to be high). If it's only the lock that has failed, you should be able to find a replacement at a local RV or hardware store for under $20. You replace the whole exterior handle/lock/shaft piece as a unit.

Unscrew the handle from the outside, pull it out, and take it to show them what you need. The square shaft on the new one will have to be cut off a bit with a hack saw (designed for thicker doors than Scamp). I got mine at a small, local RV shop that had an exact replacement In stock, and they even cut off the shaft for free.

Good luck!

[Jon in AZ]

Connie, just noticed your trailer is a few years old. Once you take out the screws on the outside of the handle, it should pull right out. If it doesn't come out easily, the shaft may be stuck in the inside latch due to corrosion. To free it, look at the inside latch and you will be able to see the end of the square shaft. Squirt some WD-40 around it, let it sit a bit, and use a small hammer and punch (or a large nail - blunt the tip a bit) to tap on the end of the shaft from the inside to loosen it.

[Connie Estep]

You must have missed it. Both parts of the door lockset on the second page of the Hardware tab on the Scamp site. Hardware $32 for both (plus S&H)
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe

Donna--I saw those but assumed it did not include the lock inside as it said handles and was so cheap. I paid $109 ten years ago when I replaced that lock! Ay yi yi! You guys are terrific. Thanks so much

[Jon in AZ]

You probably don't need the inside part. The lock, which is part of the handle, is what usually goes bad. Unlike the old Bolers, Scamp uses a simple lever set-up (same as many garage doors and pick-up shells). Not as sturdy, but easy to fix.

I took mine to a locksmith first. He said he could replace just the lock cylinder, but it was a special order, and would be more expensive than replacing the whole handle. A lever-type garage door handle was $13 at Ace. I think I paid about $16 for the handle (with lock & keys) at the RV shop. The latter was identical to the original.

[Connie Estep]

Just want to make sure it is a Scamp Lock I'm dealing with. The key is 1-3/4" long, with a narrow black plastic grip (3/8" wide, 7/8" long) rectangular except at the ring hole end which is cut about 40 degree angle and rounded on the tip. There is no logo or markings on the key except for angled, incised lines on both sides of the grip to give a little traction for the fingers.

[Jon in AZ]

That doesn't sound Ike a factory key. But the whole point is that a number of different aftermarket products will work with the factory latch. So your unusual key may only indicate that the lock cylinder or the whole exterior door handle was replaced with a non-original part at some point. Could you post pictures of the exterior door handle and the latch part on the inside of the door? If the inside latch part is still original (very likely) you can replace just the outside handle/lock and save some $$. If the inside latch part has been changed, then you'll need to order the whole shebang from Scamp.

[Connie Estep]

John--I will do that but probably won't have my Scamp back until Oct 8. Dropped it at an RV service place for repacking bearings, checking brakes, propane drop test, etc. and they are stacked with work. By the way my new (2011) Pilot did great getting it across the Cascade Mountains (Snoqualmie Pass).

[Jon in AZ]

Glad to hear your Pilot did the job. Busy today, but I'll take pix of the parts I was talking about tomorrow.

[Jon in AZ]

Connie, hopefully a few pics will make it all clear. Hard to visualize when you don't have your trailer nearby to look at.

This is the outside door handle. It contains the lock cylinder, which is what usually goes bad. The lock cylinder can be replaced separately, but (at least in my experience) it's easier to replace the whole handle. I found the one you see, which is identical to the factory part, at a small local RV store for about $16. A lever-type garage door handle from a hardware store will also work, but it won't look like the original.


Remove the two screws and pull it straight out. This is what you have (this is my old Scamp part). You can see the square shaft sticking out. That is what turns the latch on the inside. (That is also what can become stuck on older trailers and need to be coaxed loose with WD-40 and a hammer & punch.)


This is what I meant by the "inside latch part." You can see the end of the square shaft toward the bottom. It had to be cut off flush with the surface of the latch box. This part does not usually fail, so you probably don't need this part, unless it appears to be badly corroded or feels really sloppy inside.


If you do order the set from Scamp, you will get both pieces, with the lock cylinder and keys included. I've heard it does not come with the little hole and pin to lock it from inside, so you'd have to drill your own hole and re-use your old pin. With shipping it will likely run around $50.

Hope that helps!

[Donna D.]

Years ago, I replaced the outside locking handle on my Scamp when the wind caught the door and slammed it shut on my daughter as she was on her way inside. The lock spun in the handle and locked her in. Fortunately I was outside with the key. If both of us had been inside, I would have had to throw the key to someone through the top egress vent to unlock the door for us.

Anyway... I replaced it with a garage door handle, other than needing to take a hack saw to the long square part that goes into the inside piece, it works perfectly. Besides, I like the "T" shape of the handle. Makes my trailer unique. Like me! And it was cheap... less than $10.

[FTTRV]

A friend used a bungie cord to hold a Parkliner door shut. It kept flying open while driving. I had a Scamp that did the same thing. I adjusted the striker plate to fix it.
Chuck

[Connie Estep]

Very helpful responses. Should get the Scamp back in about a week and will help to have the pictures for comparison ... and $10 is always better than $50! Thanks much! Connie

[sarahspins]

My '84 scamp came with a Bargman key and a non Bargman lock (it had a typical scamp lockset)... I'm not sure why that was, but the key to my storage shed as well as the roof rack on my car would also operate the lock (both locking and unlocking without any extra effort) so I decided to replace it. The inside and outside components were solidly rusted together and removing it was anything but easy. Liberal amounts of penetrating oil were applied over the course of a week, but it was ultimately cut off with the aid of a dremel multi-max. I replaced it with a FIC lock, it's much more secure and latches easily without having to slam anything. I did have to cut a rather large hole in my door to install it, as well as fabricating a shim for the inside of door since the lock itself is thicker than the stock scamp door.

[Jon in AZ]

One more thing... The lock cylinder works by preventing the handle and square shaft from turning. Apparently, bouncing down the road causes the handle lever to bang against the internal lock mechanism, which explains why these locks are prone to fail. It was recommended that I install the handle pointing down, rather than to the side. Found out after I had already replaced the handle, and I haven't bothered to make the change, but something you might want to consider. Donna's solution would also address the problem.

BTW- garage door locks are available in two styles: the T-style Donna used and an L-style that is more like the original handle. I bought one of the latter before I found the original-style replacement. The garage door handles were a bit cheaper, but didn't feel as nice in my hand. As Donna says, YMMV.

[Jon in AZ]

Sarah, the fact that any old key of the right size worked in the lock just meant the lock cylinder was bad. I recently bought a spare lock set from a forum member who was upgrading to a heavier-duty set-up, as you did. What is the FIC lock you used? Did you post a thread of your work? Just curious.

[David B.]

Jon, with our Scamp, I did the same as Sarah, and installed a FIC lock. When I cut out the opening in the door for the lock, I fiberglassed the new opening prior to installtion, so water could not get inside the door.
Dave & Paula

[Carol H]

David did you redo the strike plate as well? Replacing my handle is on my list of things to do one day as well....

[David B.]

Originally Posted by Carol H

David did you redo the strike plate as well? Replacing my handle is on my list of things to do one day as well....

Carol,I did replace the striker plate. I used both "flat stock & angle" steel to form a new one. It's been so long that I don't remember why I did this, but I believe it was because I used the original hole as the limiting edge of the new opening. I think if one was to place the new hole where it would align with the original striker plate, and fill the original hole, one would not have to make a new striker plate.
Dave & Paula