Replacing our Dometic Fridge - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-30-2011, 09:58 AM   #1
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Replacing our Dometic Fridge

After two years of messing with our old Dometic 211 fridge we finally replaced it. Wanting to keep a three-way fridge for non electrical sites and to keep the trailer close to original for the next owner, we chose the slightly larger Dometic 2193 from the replacement chart. It is about three inches deeper but we were able to install it further into the opening leaving only about one inch to fill with some plywood spacing. Without the freezing compartment it has a whole bunch more useable space.
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Old 06-30-2011, 10:28 AM   #2
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Nice job on the installation.
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:48 AM   #3
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Looks great! I installed the same one, it works very well! You should be quite pleased with it.
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Old 06-30-2011, 02:27 PM   #4
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For reference, is there a link to the replacement chart you speak of?

On a side note, do newer, replacement reefers have better cooling abilities and temperature control? Ours still works fine, but since it only cools a finite amount below ambient, everything warms up during the day and can freeze at night.
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Old 06-30-2011, 02:46 PM   #5
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Try this
http://www.rv.com/assets/replacement...ementChart.pdf
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Old 06-30-2011, 02:47 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by KeithA View Post
For reference, is there a link to the replacement chart you speak of?

On a side note, do newer, replacement reefers have better cooling abilities and temperature control? Ours still works fine, but since it only cools a finite amount below ambient, everything warms up during the day and can freeze at night.
Link to the Dometic replacement chart
http://www.dometic.com/2c6030b1-1d21...ccab1c04.fodoc

The basic principals of the Gas Absorption Refrigerator has not changed for 80+ years. Older units usually suffer from corrosion buildup and other age related problems that effect the overall performance. I find that I have the same wide temperature swings even with a new fridge. Because GAR's rely on the ambient temperature of outside air to control the temperature of the inside compartment, often times you can get much better reliability by some simple changes. One of the often easiest things you can do is park with the fridge side away from the sun. Some folks add some DC fans to the vent compartment, and things like that. In the end you can only achieve a certain amount of temperature differential from the ambient air. So the more stable that is, the more stable your ice box will be. A newer unit will be more efficient and if it is installed & used properly will give the best differential. But usually an old box will work fine too with a little tweaking.

One thing I have seen work on the old units is to pull them out and roll them around on the lawn for 20 mins. Sounds crazy, but it breaks up the corrosion and gets all the chemicals mixed up again. It really does work. Let it sit upright for a few hours before lighting it up though. Clean the Flue and make sure you have a nice BLUE flame on the burner. If the flame is yellow/orange or flickers the burner needs to be serviced. Make sure that the compartment is clean and open for good air flow. You want to make sure that the hot exhaust is exiting that compartment quickly and not lingering around. A good pack of insulation around the sides of the box will help as well! There are a lot of threads and posts on this subject so a quick search should give you plenty of ideas to try.
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Old 06-30-2011, 10:47 PM   #7
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I would like to no if any one has put this dometic rm 2193 into a 1976 Trillium 4500? If it has been done how did it work out? Gene
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Old 06-30-2011, 10:59 PM   #8
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I would like to no if any one has put this dometic rm 2193 into a 1976 Trillium 4500? If it has been done how did it work out? Gene
I remember a discussion once about that a couple years ago. And as I recall the cabinet is too shallow by several inches. The compatibility list shows the depth of the unit. I think you will have some fir'ing work and it's going to stick out. Norcold and dometic as far as I know have the two smallest units and they are very close to the same size. The norcold box I think is and inch shallower? I'll see if I can dig up their chart.
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:09 PM   #9
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FWIW, this link goes along with David's advice, and I had saved it in my favorites. Can't remember if I found it from this forum or not, but here it is:
How to Revive a Propane Refrigerator | eHow.com
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Old 07-02-2011, 07:14 AM   #10
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Before we replaced the fridge, I had it out of the trailer on three different ocasions over about two years. We did the upside-down thing, the bump thing, and the rock and roll. After re inserting into the trailer andd reconnecting it, it would function perfectly for a week or two and then I had several bad words for it. I think that we gave it a good try. What's a dud worth for parts?
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Old 07-02-2011, 09:59 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by james kent
Before we replaced the fridge, I had it out of the trailer on three different ocasions over about two years. We did the upside-down thing, the bump thing, and the rock and roll. After re inserting into the trailer andd reconnecting it, it would function perfectly for a week or two and then I had several bad words for it. I think that we gave it a good try. What's a dud worth for parts?
Sounds like you gave it a good go! I am not sure what happens that causes that, but went through the same with my dad fridge. At some point during the battle we got a wiff of ammonia.... And that was the end of that! If the tricks don't work it's lost cause. Sounds like you gave it the all! Duds sell for a few bucks on eBay!
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Old 05-03-2017, 06:06 PM   #12
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I love the pix, thanks James Kent, do you have any Pix David Morgan?

What did you use as the filler between the cabinet face and the front of the fridge, (since it sticks out farther)

Also how much room in the back, where do you align the back of the unit compared to the outside of the trailer.

Thanks. jimbo
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Old 05-03-2017, 07:02 PM   #13
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Scamp shims out the larger frig's on their 16&19 models. They use 3/4" oak boards ripped to the desired depth. I estimate about 2" wide.
Eddie
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Old 05-06-2017, 05:44 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james kent View Post
Before we replaced the fridge, I had it out of the trailer on three different ocasions over about two years. We did the upside-down thing, the bump thing, and the rock and roll. After re inserting into the trailer andd reconnecting it, it would function perfectly for a week or two and then I had several bad words for it. I think that we gave it a good try. What's a dud worth for parts?


Went through similar experience with my Dometic 211. I no longer beleive in miracle cures. Whenever corrosion and refrigerant degradation occur from overheating and age, getting back to normal operation for any significant amount of time by flipping over the unit is usually not worth the effort. Internal obstructions may be temporary dislodged, but not eliminated.
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