replacing subfloor in scamp - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-24-2013, 07:42 PM   #1
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Name: Dan
Trailer: 79 scamp 13'
Minnesota
Posts: 8
replacing subfloor in scamp

Just checked to see what the damage was from the leaky freshwater inlet and it looks like I need to replace the subfloor in the dinette. I have rot all the way around the rear end. I was wondering if anyone has replaced sections of floor at a time without removing the shell from the frame. Eventually I want to replace the entire floor, but don't have the time to pull the shell off and do it all at once. Also, I was wondering what most of you use for waterproofing on the top and bottom of the subfloor.
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:08 PM   #2
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Trillium 4500, Scamp 5th Wheel
Las Vegas, Nv.
Posts: 1,253
Registry
http://kamperbob.com/

On the listed blog Bob just posted about replacing the sub floor in a 19' Scamp. He only cut out the bad sections and replace those without removing the whole floor. Check it out as it is another option.
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:47 PM   #3
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Name: Eddie
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Virginia
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Dan
The best way is to replace floor sections with the shell on the frame one section at a time. 5/8" ext. grade plywood or marine grade if you feel you need to spend the extra money. On the rear dance floor replacing in sections is not a problem but you can replace the whole dance floor just as eaisly as a big section. I recommend replacing sections perpendicular to the frame from one side to the other side starting from the back. The new section can be joined with a lap joint. I put two coats of resin on the road side and edges of the plywood facing the shell. I glue and screw the lap joint and screw the floor to the frame. The edges are glassed in with 2" or 3" wide glass tape to the shell. Just before putting the seats in I paint the floor with several coats of paint up to the glass tape. Send me a PM with your phone number and I will give you more tips on cutting out the old floor and pattern making if you like. Since you have a 79 Scamp you should currently have a plywood floor.
Eddie
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:15 PM   #4
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Name: Logan
Trailer: 1976 Scamp 13'
Wisconsin
Posts: 230
My '76 had the same issue.

The rear floor is easily replaced and should be done in one piece as the supports are spaced very far apart.

I suspect that your floor is tri-ply like mine was. Tri-ply is NOT for a structural use such as a floor and should be replaced with five-ply.

The main floor area is only held in with screws and sits directly on an angle iron frame- no fiberglass involved. It makes a huge difference if you replace it with five-ply as well.

It would also be a great time to grind the frame down to rust proof and paint.
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:57 AM   #5
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Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
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Yep, just did it. I'm still waiting on some parts and better weather to fiberglass it back in, though. I'm changing a few things around at the same time.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...-55038-12.html
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:45 PM   #6
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Name: Dan
Trailer: 79 scamp 13'
Minnesota
Posts: 8
Got the old floor out and ready to put in the new one. I am wondering whether to use epoxy or polyester resin to secure the floor to the shell. I assume resin is what was originally used but is it worth using epoxy for the extra strength?
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:31 AM   #7
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Name: Mark
Trailer: Scamp 16'
Colorado
Posts: 1
Rotten Floor, Scamp 16

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
Dan
The best way is to replace floor sections with the shell on the frame one section at a time. 5/8" ext. grade plywood or marine grade if you feel you need to spend the extra money. On the rear dance floor replacing in sections is not a problem but you can replace the whole dance floor just as eaisly as a big section. I recommend replacing sections perpendicular to the frame from one side to the other side starting from the back. The new section can be joined with a lap joint. I put two coats of resin on the road side and edges of the plywood facing the shell. I glue and screw the lap joint and screw the floor to the frame. The edges are glassed in with 2" or 3" wide glass tape to the shell. Just before putting the seats in I paint the floor with several coats of paint up to the glass tape. Send me a PM with your phone number and I will give you more tips on cutting out the old floor and pattern making if you like. Since you have a 79 Scamp you should currently have a plywood floor.
Eddie
Eddie,

I found your posting with helpful comments. You offered to another member with "Send me a PM with your phone number and I will give you more tips on cutting out the old floor and pattern making if you like." I would appreciate if you could look at my situation described below and offer any advice. I am a newbie so I hope I am following the proper protocol.

I just bought a Scamp 16, 2002 with floor rot in two places:
1. On the Driver side from the rear of the toilet holding tank drain for approx. 24" towards the back. From the shell edge towards the center for 6". The rot is over the gray water shower evacuation pump. Approx. 6"x24"
2. Immediately behind the Passenger side wheel well and back for approximately 28". From the shell edge towards the center for 10". Approx. 10"x28".
The rotten areas seem to be "rotten" in the sense that they have no glue, are loose wood particles. They don't seem to smell or have fungus/bacteria going on but maybe I am just not detecting that. One thought is to fix the source of water leak and leave loose material there, gluing or adding something underneath to seal the weak spot. Both areas are out of sight from inside the trailer unless you open up a door and look for them. The lower edge of the shell seems to have a trough or two horizontal lips of fiberglass which the floor board fits between, providing a little support of the floor. If you cut out a rotten rectangle piece and replace it with new plywood of some sort, what holds the new piece in place?
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