Restore boler 78 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 09-03-2006, 05:55 PM   #1
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Trailer: Bigfoot 17 ft 1992 / Chevrolet S10 4.3L.
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I am restoring a boler 78

First I remove front window because i dont use it and i have some leak around the glass

I take the gravel shield and install it with fiberglass and finish it with epoxy boddy filler

I sand all the shell , i remove 2 coats of old paint and repair somme scratch

Also i remove the furnace and patch the exhaust hole

The next opration is paint with interlux Brightside
Excuse me i speak english just a bit , i am french canadien

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Old 09-03-2006, 06:52 PM   #2
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Hello Yvon,
How bad was the interior?
Good luck on the project.
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Old 09-03-2006, 06:52 PM   #3
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That's the first I've time heard of replacing the front window with a solid section of wall. It should certainly eliminate any weather sealing issues, and the new front end looks nice and smooth.

Yvon, how are you finishing the inside surface, where the window was? I assume that you will have an insulating lining of some sort, like the Ensolite material which is presumably on the rest of the wall surface.
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Old 09-03-2006, 07:07 PM   #4
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Yvon
I would also like to know about the inside where the window was and if you will insulate it. How did you sand it? What tools and materials did you use? Was it difficult?
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Old 09-04-2006, 05:38 AM   #5
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Hello
For the interior finishing i use a sheet of 3/16" cork buy a Rona hardware

I use contact ciment for stick it to the inside fiberglass

I make joint with latex silicone and paint it with a hight quality latex paint ( same color of insolite)

I will take some pictures in the next week and post it

Yvon Chayer
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Old 09-04-2006, 05:51 AM   #6
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To Norm Roy
The interior was in good condition, very clean , no mildew and moisture

When i finish the exterior , just put new curtain and recover the foam

Yvon Chayer
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Old 09-04-2006, 10:24 AM   #7
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Hello Catherine H

For sanding i use a random oscilating air sander

When i fit the fiber glass pannel in the front of the boler i use a small grinder to make grove betwenn to part of fiber

I center it with 12 bolt and washer to ensure that the pannel was flush to the wall of the boler

I use premix ( fiberglass fiber mix with resin ) sale at autoparts

When the first coat was hard , i remove bolt and washer and finish the fiberglass

After i make finition with catalyse putty for automotive boddy finishing

It is not very difficult but require mutch time

Yvon Chayer
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Old 09-04-2006, 07:09 PM   #8
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Thanks for your hard work in writing your process out in English. I now know exactly how you did it!
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Old 09-04-2006, 08:27 PM   #9
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Yes. Thank you, Yvon. Keep posting your pictures so we can see your good work!
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Old 09-07-2006, 07:30 PM   #10
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Yvon;
I am going to start the same project in October and hope to be finished by spring. So i'm very interested in how long did it take to sand the whole egg. Keep us posted on the paint job
Also, how big was the compressor that you used to run the sander. I have a 2.5 h.p. that can supply 3.5 CFM at 90 lbs PSI. Will this work.
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Old 09-07-2006, 08:07 PM   #11
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Hello Greg

I take aroud 20 hours to sand completly the boler but i remonve 2 coats of old paint

I take aroud 2 hours to remove accessories ( light , propane regulator . door etc

For the compreesor i use a 8 cfm at 90 pounds andit dont supply the sander continusly , i stop the sander regulary to give the pressure go up

Now the primer surfacer is apply and i will paint the lower of the boler this week end

I will post some picture of the next week

bye and good luck for your project

Yvon Chayer
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Old 09-08-2006, 01:09 PM   #12
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I've been through this using small compressors for DA sanders.

What I did was to throttle the air down with the valve on the sander. (It actually seemed to sand better at the lower speed.) Then when the speed dropped too low for good sanding, I would stop for a moment to change paper and let the compressor catch up.

I found it was a good idea to not let the pressure come up to the point that the compressor motor stopped, because it was hot enough that it really didn't want to start again.

Also, if possible, don't run the compressor on an extension cord. Having full voltage sure helps.

If it turns out your compressor just isn't up to the task, consider getting a good electric DA sander. Back when I was painting cars for a hobby, they just weren't available. Now just about every tool outfit has one. From some of the other forums, the Ridgid is probably the best buy, with the Festool the best overall. However, as with anything else, there are a lot of opinions floating around. I happen to have both a Porter Cable and a Festool RO125.

You can also hook your vacuum up to most of the electrics. This is important, since the stuff you are sanding off isn't the nicest stuff to breathe.
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Old 09-10-2006, 05:11 PM   #13
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hello

This afternoon i paint the first coat ofthe lower of my boler

I am happy of the result of my labor



Yvon Chayer
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Old 09-10-2006, 09:17 PM   #14
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Loren, what is a DA sander?
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Old 09-10-2006, 09:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
hello

This afternoon i paint the first coat ofthe lower of my boler

I am happy of the result of my labor



Yvon Chayer
Wow, Yvon! What a glossy shine you have! What did you use for primer? What kind of paint and how did you apply the paint?
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Old 09-10-2006, 10:39 PM   #16
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Hello Catherine

I use for primer Dupont epoxy primer and for paint i use Interlux Brightside paint

I spray this with air pistol
The Brightside paint was heavy and the pressure use is around 80 psi for best spray

I am very happy of the result

Yvon Chayer
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Old 09-11-2006, 04:45 PM   #17
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Quote:
Loren, what is a DA sander?
I had the same thought, but then realized that it probably means "[b]Dual Action": not just a spinning disk, or a rectangular pad which moves back in forth in a straight line, but a more complex combination of "actions".

Loren can correct me when he gets a chance to see this.
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Old 09-11-2006, 10:42 PM   #18
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Quote:
I had the same thought, but then realized that it probably means "[b]Dual Action": not just a spinning disk, or a rectangular pad which moves back in forth in a straight line, but a more complex combination of "actions".

Loren can correct me when he gets a chance to see this.
Makes sense to me. So would an electric Random Orbital Sander be effective enough? I have to get this stuff off! See pics.(thank you, Benny!) I'd sure like it to look as nice as Yvon's Boler!
Attached Thumbnails
surfside_007.jpg   surfside_009.jpg  

surfside_015.jpg  
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Old 09-11-2006, 11:08 PM   #19
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Catherine, your best bet would be to find someone to borrow a random orbital from and try it......they are fairly cheap to buy in an air driven version, as long as you have a compressor capable of running it fairly steady......I believe the dual action is switched from a back and forward action to a orbital rectangular pad and a random orbital which is switched from a disc sander to an action that kinda wobbles and spins somewhat at the same time by moving a metal disc to engage or disengage the action ....hope you don`t run into problems with that right rear roof area....looks like some previous damage wasn`t repaired too well.....but luckily it`s fiberglass... ... and almost anything can be fixed........how`s every thing else coming along? Benny
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Old 09-12-2006, 05:16 AM   #20
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Hello Catherine

How is the fibergass and gelcoat condition under the old paint ???

The sander that i use is a chicago pneumatic CP 865

Why do you not consider rent a compressor and a sander ????

You rent the kit for a week end and you make the job !!!!

I put the link oh my sander for the specification of the air supply

http://212.75.80.201/CPIndustrialSite/Default.asp

Yvon Chayer
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